“First” study to prove prebiotic sugar beet scFOS promotes skin microbiota
17 Jun 2022 --- Short-chain fructo-oligosaccharides (scFOS) from sugar beet (DP 3–5) balance the skin microbiota by inhibiting the growth of potential pathogens and promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria, finds France and Italy-based researchers at Tereos and Escin-EcamRicert Laboratory.
ScFOS do not need to be classified as a skin irritant or skin corrosive and are safe for cosmetics formulations.
“Therefore, the current research evaluated the effects of scFOS containing skin formulation on the skin microbiota composition through in vitro model,” state the researchers.
The human skin microbiota is increasingly becoming the center of focus for the dermatological and cosmetic fields as understanding its balance brings insights into the mechanisms for healthy skin and appearance.
From food to skin
ScFOS are well-recognized in foods as prebiotics for the gut microbiota. However, its effects on the skin microbiome have been understudied. Prebiotics enable the growth of microorganisms essential for the skin’s well-being.
The researchers explain that the prebiotic scFOS is an active ingredient obtained through an enzymatic reaction with a proprietary enzyme, leading to a short-chain structure.
ScFOS does not need to be classified as a skin irritant or skin corrosive and is safe for cosmetics formulations.
They also highlight that the skin microbiota is largely unexplored. However, it is a rapidly emerging field in the personal care industry, demonstrated by increased formulations targeting the skin microbiota.
Bacterial representatives for human skin
Three bacterial strains were selected from the human skin microbiota. They were S. epidermidis, C. acnes and S. aureus.
S. epidermidis is a regular and beneficial member of the skin microbiota. C. acnes and S. aureus are opportunistic pathogens that can cause skin disorders.
The researchers say S. aureus can cause inflammation and complications during psoriasis and skin wounds. On the other hand, C. acnes is considered one of the causes of acne vulgaris.
It was found that scFOS prebiotic had no growth effects for C. acnes and S. aureus, indicating that scFOS selectively enhanced the growth of S. epidermidis.
Researchers found that S. epidermidis significantly grew in the presence of 0.5 to 5% scFOS. However, at higher scFOS concentrations (10 and 15%), S. epidermidis growth decreased. On the other hand, scFOS negatively impacted S. aureus growth, and C. acnes population growth was “completely” halted.
Therefore, scFOS had a selective impact on beneficial bacteria growth, which the researchers suggest can be instrumental in recovering skin homeostasis with potential benefits on skin health.
Initial safety tests
The study published in Scientific Reports concluded that ScFOS were non-corrosive after tests were performed through in-vitro models.
Additionally, a local lymph node assay with the substance denied a skin sensitization potential.
The test was also performed on an isolated chicken eye, concluding that scFOS should not be classified as an eye irritant or serious eye damage.
The sum of these tests made it clear that scFOS can safely be used as a cosmetic ingredient. 
It was found that scFOS prebiotic had no growth effects for C. acnes and S. aureus, proving that scFOS selectively enhanced the growth of S. epidermidis.
“Dynamic ecosystem” of skin microbiota
Human skin microbiota is crucial to maintaining healthy skin as it acts as a biological barrier against pathogens and communicates with cells and the immune system.
The researchers suggest that prebiotics can be applied to balance almost any microbial community to achieve advantageous effects.
Dysbiosis is caused when the skin microbiota composition becomes imbalanced, causing skin pathologies such as acne, eczema or allergies and non-pathological conditions like sensitive skin, irritation or dry skin.
Other studies have shown that konjac glucomannan hydrolysates (GMH) can inhibit the growth of C. acnes in vitro. The scientists also share that Plant extracts like Ginseng, or Black currant may inhibit bacterium C. acnes without affecting beneficial species like coagulase‐negative Staphylococci.
Microbiomes in the industry
Marinova introduced “promising therapeutic potential” for skin inflammation like acne by using select species of brown seaweed fucoidans.
Additionally, Unilever researchers found that Vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide, can be a potential ingredient for new skin hygiene products as they boost the levels and effectiveness of antimicrobial peptides produced by the skin to counter invading virus and bacteria cells.
Givaudan Active Beauty launched Patchoul’Up in March, a “100% upcycled” ingredient as a solution to dry flakey scalp. It works by balancing the scalp microbiome and sebum production.
Furthermore, researchers in Italy found that mixing Botanics and probiotics can help treat facial acne. Norwich Research Park also received a portion of US$2.6 million in funding from the government to tackle healthy aging. The research center focuses on the skin’s microbiome as the key to aging well.
By Venya Patel
