Givaudan Active Beauty’s new upcycled Patchoul’Up to patch up hair and scalp issues

22 Mar 2022 --- Patchoul’Up, a “100% upcycled” ingredient, is debuted by beauty specialist Givaudan Active Beauty as a solution to dry flakey scalp, balancing the scalp microbiome and the sebum production.

“The distillated leaves are dried and re-valorized in a side stream with an adapted process to give Patchoul’Up, an active ingredient obtained from upcycled patchouli leaves,” Pauline Martin, operational marketing and communication manager Active Beauty, tells PersonalCareInsights.

“Previously authenticated to guarantee the botanical species, Patchoul’Up is created through an eco-friendly manufacturing process.”

“Recovered through subcritical water extraction with side-stream upgrading, water empowerment, selective active fractions, no residual solvents and energy saving,” continues Martin.

“For us, upcycling is not just a trend but a true path to success on our journey as a sustainable business,” says Fabrice Lefevre, innovation and marketing director at Givaudan Active Beauty.

Scalp and hair stats
The company’s CMI report shares, 85% of consumers previously experienced dry flakes, “with 40% dandruff and dry flakes as their main scalp issue.” Additionally, 44% of the 85% believe that an unhealthy scalp microbiome is a cause.

The active ingredient, Patchoul’Up, offers six solutions: to rebalance the sebum production by 39%, reduce scalp dry flakes by 31%, balance the scalp microbiota, regulate stratum corneum desquamation (flaking), improve scalp condition and boost well-being.

Sharing some R&D challenges, Martin comments: “As scalp microbiome is as important as skin microbiome, we wanted to make sure that Patchoul’Up answered to consumers’ demand of taking care of their skin and scalp microbiota.”

“Clinical tests demonstrate that Patchoul’Up normalized the level of sebum on the scalp and rebalanced the alpha diversity, for a healthier microbiota.”

Givaudan Active Beauty will unveil its Patchoul’Up S3D Solid’hair at the 2022 in-cosmetics global, Paris.

Patchoul’Up is extracted from distilled patchouli leaves through “green fractionation,” making it naturally sourced. The leaves are upcycled after being used as a raw material to create other fragrances.

The ingredient is said to follow the “beauty trend of skinification” – to treat hair and scalp issues in the same way as they do for the skin. Therefore, the product reflects the company’s consumer demand, says Givaudan Active Beauty.

Patchoul’Up comes with the company’s recent active ingredient launch, Neoporyl, to shrink enlarged pores.

Ensuring ethical developments
“Since 2013, Givaudan has had its own collection network for essential oil obtained from the distillation of patchouli leaves in the Island of Sulawesi (Indonesia) where hundreds of producers and local suppliers are involved in the production of patchouli oil for perfumery,” shares Martin.

Patchoul’Up is said to meet the demand from customers and consumers for upcycled solutions that can preserve natural resources and deliver benefits. Hence, it is aligned with Givaudan’s Sourcing4Good program – to source all materials and services, ensuring the protection of people and the planet by 2030.

The Sourcing4Good program aims to: “benefit workers at factory, farm and collector level; promote sustainable agricultural practices; preserve wild harvest supply chains; Givaudan Active Beauty will unveil its Patchoul’Up S3D Solid’hair at the 2022 in-cosmetics global, Paris.

reduce environmental footprints impact and promote biodiversity; benefit the lives of communities from which Givaudan sources.”

Givaudan has also received a double A-rating by CDP Supplier Engagement Leaderboard for water risk and climate change response. Its trajectory follows the change in its brand strategy, “human by nature.”

In related news
Recent news in the upcycling trend includes the potential for using citrus waste for perfumery, anti-aging and skin whitening developments. UpCircle Beauty urged brands to take the next step toward natural and vegan beauty.

Furthermore, the EcoBeautyScore Consortium scoring system has been developed for cosmetic products to ensure companies make sustainable decisions.

On the importance of the microbiome and healthy aging, PersonalCareInsights speaks to researchers sharing insights. Sequential Bio is also offering companies to test and certify microbiome-friendly claims.

By Venya Patel

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