Fragrance and storytelling: Expert says smell brings back memories faster than other senses

According to experts, fragrance does more than smell. It impacts our senses and sends signals to our brains, evoking memories and decision-making. In comparison to other senses, smell sends direct neural pathways to the brain, creating a faster reaction.

Personal Care Insights speaks with Kelly Dobos, cosmetic chemist and adjunct instructor of cosmetic science, University of Cincinnati, US, about why humans are attracted to pleasant smells for a mix of biological, psychological, and cultural reasons, and safety guidance for the industry when creating fragrance.

“Biologically, our olfactory system has a direct neural connection to the brain’s emotion and memory centers. That’s why the smell of something familiar, such as fresh-baked cookies or a favorite perfume, can instantly transport us back to a moment in time,” says Dobos.

She says that culturally, scent preferences are shaped by everything from food and family traditions to religious rituals.

“What smells ‘good’ in one part of the world might be different elsewhere. Recent research shows that scent memories can be passed down through generations, reinforcing cultural identity in subtle but powerful ways.”

Smell evokes stronger memories because its neural pathways connect directly to the brain regions responsible for emotion and memory.Memory and smell

Dobos further explains that even the “clean” smell we associate with laundry isn’t natural. It’s a carefully crafted scent marketed and reinforced over time. 

“Global industries play a big role in shaping what we think smells good, often blending science with storytelling.”

Smell evokes stronger memories than other senses because its neural pathways connect directly to the brain regions responsible for emotion and memory without first passing through the thalamus, which acts as a relay and filter for other sensory information. 

“When you perceive a scent, odor molecules detected by receptors in your nose send signals directly to the olfactory bulb. This direct route allows smells to powerfully and immediately evoke memories, often with a strong emotional response,” says Dobos.

She explains that the thalamus first processes other senses, such as sight and sound, before relying on memory and emotion centers. This adds an additional step and possibly reduces emotional intensity. 

These claims are supported by studies showing that odors produce more pronounced activation in emotion and memory networks in brain scans than visual triggers, says Dobos.

Dobos explains that cosmetic chemists can seek guidance on fragrance safety from the IFRA and RIFM.Safe fragrance

According to fragrance brand Beautycounter, previous studies have shown the presence of potentially harmful ingredients in traditional fragrances and perfumes, including known allergens, endocrine disruptors, carcinogens, skin irritants, and ingredients toxic to the reproductive system.

Meanwhile, the essential ingredient in fragrance — ethanol — has sparked debate as the European Commission considers reclassifying ethanol as a CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, or reprotoxic) substance, banning it from all cosmetic formulas, including fragrance. The industry responded that there is a lack of evidence of ethanol being harmful when topically applied, and that the claims are based on oral consumption.

Dobos explains that cosmetic chemists can seek guidance on fragrance safety from the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). 

“IFRA sets global safety standards for fragrance ingredients. These standards tell developers which ingredients are safe, how much can be used, and what types of products, like lotions, shampoos, or air fresheners.”

The RIFM generates the data IFRA uses to make its recommendations by conducting scientific studies that include effects on skin, inhalation, reproduction, and long-term health. Their findings help ensure that fragrance use is science-backed, she says.

“Product developers can look to IFRA’s guidelines and review RIFM’s safety assessments to understand how fragrance ingredients, from natural essential oils to synthetic materials, can be used safely.”

A recent study found that personal care products, especially lotions and perfumes, negatively impact the air around our bodies — the human oxidation field. These products can disrupt the chemical reaction between our skin and the air, directly affecting human health and chemical intake, especially when inhaled.

In a recent podcast by WVXU News, Dobos comments on the above study, urging users to wear fragrances with care.