Givaudan Active Beauty launches white biotech ingredient Neoporyl to shrink enlarged pores

01 Mar 2022 --- Fragrance and beauty specialist Givaudan Active Beauty is debuting the active ingredient Neoporyl, which reportedly targets the root cause of large pores within one week. Neoporyl is produced with biocatalysis technology using enzymes and amino acids.

The ingredient targets the root cause of parakeratosis, which damages the skin by altering the structure of the epidermis and affecting the dermis’ fragility.

“Our active ingredient is able to limit hyperdifferentiation in the epidermis, reduce nucleated cell density in the stratum corneum, restore collagen production in the dermis and boost mature collagen and decorin production,” explains Mathias Fleury, head of the actives category for Active Beauty. 

Addressing biological factors
As much as wrinkles and signs of aging are a concern for many, the company finds that pore size has become an equivalent concern. Skincare consumers have coined a fixation on pore size as “porexia.”

Givaudan previously embraced the idea of well-aging skin in opposition to anti-aging claims. 

The company explains that two factors drive large pores. The first is genetics, and the second is environmental factors. However, enlarged pores are caused by two more elements, parakeratosis and dermis fragility. 

The latter two factors are biological causes, says the company. Hence, Neoporyl has been designed to address the biological causes. White biotechnology creates active cosmetic ingredients using microorganisms (fermentation and bioconversion) or enzymes (biocatalysis). 

Clinical evidence and biocatalysis
The company tested the efficacy of Neoporyl on Caucasian women and Asian men regardless of age. A pore size reduction within two weeks in all volunteers was found, increasing effectiveness over a two-month trial. 

A 24% reduction was noted compared to a placebo for Caucasian women. Pore size reduction and skin improvement were found in Asian men 2.4 times better than in the placebo.  

At Givaudan, biocatalysis follows the 12 rules of green chemistry to prevent waste, be economical, use safer chemicals, apply efficient designs, use renewable feedstock and produce biodegradable products. 

The company further explains that the enzymes transform leftover residues and are the key source of renewable raw materials. Thus, enzymes for active cosmetics ensure that the products are environmentally sustainable. 

For further insight into biotechnology, PersonalCareInsights sheds light with experts on fermentation processes for cleaner beauty ingredients. 

Givaudan’s biocatalysis uses come when the company is changing its brand image to bring nature and humans closer.

Edited by Venya Patel