Givaudan Active Beauty ditches anti-aging claims for positively branded “well-aging” skincare
06 Oct 2021 --- The beauty industry’s withdrawal from the “anti-aging” product positioning is led by a growing sentiment that it is wrong to assign negative connotations to a natural biological process. The alternative labels “healthy aging” and “well-aging” are now prominently steering Givaudan Active Beauty’s new ingredient development in 2021.
Speaking to PersonalCareInsights, Pauline Martin, operational marketing and communication manager at Givaudan, details how the shift is inspiring product launches formulated with sustainably extracted natural ingredients.
“Healthy aging, or ‘well-aging,’ is the trend that will make consumers stop having a bad emotion as soon as a white hair or wrinkle appears. They still want to treat them, but they are not afraid of having them anymore,” she remarks.
“Consumers seek to be the best version of themselves simply by taking care of their hair and skin in a sustainable and holistic approach,” she continues. “Well-aging is the holistic version of anti-aging, and has this positive point of view of taking care of our skin in a natural way.”
Givaudan Active Beauty’s newly unveiled ingredients include Chronoglow, Zanthalene and Sericoside.“Consumers want to feel good in their body, including their skin so they are now choosing specific products containing specific ingredients to follow this trend. It can be natural, upcycled or sustainable ingredients. This is a positive shift for the consumers and for the industry.”
Healthy aging with green formulas
Since March 2021, Givaudan Active Beauty unveiled three ingredients in this category, all crafted by green fractionation – what the company calls the “science of sustainable plant extractions” – and answering different well-aging consumer needs.
“In the well-aging category, consumers are looking for a natural and sustainable ingredient,” highlights Martin. “It can come from upcycled ingredients or biotechnology or botanical extracts.”
Givaudan Active Beauty’s newly unveiled ingredients include Chronoglow, Zanthalene and Sericoside.
Chronoglow is an active ingredient empowered by artificial intelligence (AI) and is able to mimic botanical epigenetic mechanisms for skin care benefits.
“Created from Haberlea rhodopensis also known as the resurrection plant, Chronoglow is a natural cure for the skin, able to reverse the effects of aging and improve its radiance,” says Martin.
The ingredient rejuvenates the skin at different cellular levels (from epigenetics to protein expression), and protects skin cells from senescence and oxidation. It reverses skin aging to take back youth, but also enhances skin firmness and provides three dimensions of glow: elasticity, luminosity and radiance.
“Our clinical studies demonstrate its efficacy in two weeks for elasticity (+8.9%) and radiance (+6,1%). The effects on luminosity are visible after four weeks, up to +3.8%. The three dimensions of glow is even better after two months of use as the effect almost doubles in efficacy,” says Martin.
“After only one month of application, skin tonicity had improved by 19.8% and signs of fatigue decreased by 16.5%. A positive effect was also visible on dark circles with 45% of the panel showing a perceptible improvement, along with a reduction in the volume of under-eye bags.”
Sericoside is an active ingredient with the well-aging power to “offer skin a second youth” by resetting its cellular memory. Zanthalene and Sericoside
Zanthalene is a scalable natural active ingredient with botox-like efficacy and skin sensitivity modulation benefits.
“Created from Zanthoxylum bungeanum, commonly known as Sichuan pepper, Zanthalene is a cosmetic ingredient derived from spice and able to act on neuromuscular communication within the skin structure, providing well-aging effects and soothing benefits depending on its concentration in formulas,” details Martin.
“Clinical studies demonstrate that Zanthalene at 1% dosage shows a visible and immediate reduction by 16% of the skin’s roughness parameter in only 30 minutes, and long-term efficacy over 30 days. This indicates that our organism continues to respond even over regular use of the product, creating a virtuous circle of amelioration.”
Sericoside is an active ingredient with the well-aging power to “offer skin a second youth” by resetting its cellular memory. “Sourced from Terminalia sericea roots, Sericoside is a botanical active ingredient capable of restoring skin to its best version,” says Martin.
What’s next for healthy aging skincare
Forecasting the most impactful trends to have an influence on future healthy aging skincare launches, Martin envisions: “Every ingredient developed with microbiome-friendly or microbiome activity claim will probably have a big success as consumers are now educated on this topic and love to take care of their skin.”
In particular, Givaudan Active Beauty is using microbiomics as well as biocatalysis to tackle skin issues related to wearing face masks. The company is launching Masknyl, an active ingredient able to counteract redness, inflammation and hyperpigmentation due to mask-wearing.
“Another interesting development will be to create new technology in well-aging category, allowing botanic and technology to have better performance, such as for example encapsulated anti-aging ingredients to create faster and deeper effect,”
Earlier this week, Monteloeder unveiled a new ingredient that slows down signs of aging at a cellular level, at Vitafoods Europe 2021. Reporting live from the show, PersonalCareInsights spoke with Axel Salomon, Europe sales director at Monteloeder, who expands on the ingredient’s global rollout and how the beauty-from-within megatrend is impacting the supplements segment.
By Benjamin Ferrer
