Niacinamide holds “secret” to unlocking next generation of skin hygiene products, says Unilever

05 May 2022 --- Vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide, is a potential ingredient for new skin hygiene products, boosting the levels and effectiveness of antimicrobial peptides (AMP's) produced by the skin to counter invading virus and bacteria cells. 

“Put simply, AMP's are tiny proteins made by our skin that fight harmful bacteria by disrupting their outer layer – like popping a soap bubble,” Dr. Michael Hoptroff at Unilever research and development tells PersoncalCareInsights.

The discovery of niacinamide on AMP levels was made by Unilever scientists in India several years ago. 

However, a recent collaboration of Unilever scientists, quantum computing and artificial intelligence (AI) experts, and the Science and Technology Facilities Council (STFC) at the Hartree Center has now uncovered how the vitamin works on the skin microbiome. 

“What this research has done is show how niacinamide helps to support these natural defenses. The potential impact of this discovery could be the development of new skin hygiene products, which help the skin’s defenses against harmful germs.”

“Niacinamide is a well-known cosmetic ingredient used traditionally for multiple skin benefits,” add the India-based researchers.

Lessons from the COVID-19 pandemic highlight the importance of increased hygiene and immunity levels.The discovery of niacinamide’s antibacterial properties can help develop new skin hygiene products.

Developing the experiment
“We wanted to understand if the cooperative effect between vitamin B3 and natural antimicrobial peptides could help us develop products that would complement the skin’s natural defenses against harmful bacteria,” Hoptroff explains. 

“Our experiments, combined with the STFC and IBM computational simulation work, have shown that this is possible,” he adds.

Computational models of bacterial and human cell membranes and vitamin B3 and AMP's were created by IMB and SRFC using high-performance computing technology at the Hartree Center, using the data from Unilever studies.

AI computer learning
The researchers ran simulations to find out why niacinamide molecules boosted AMP's and affected bacterial membranes. 

“These simulations provide a wealth of detailed insights that could become the foundation for developing new skin hygiene products and cosmetics using niacinamide – and possibly other peptide-boosting materials while complying with applicable regulations,” suggests Unilever. 

“AI and computer learning could predict even more effective boosters that we are not aware of and might need to be created by synthetic chemists,” says Dr. Amitabha Majumdar, a senior research scientist at Unilever.

“That is the incredible power of machine learning and AI: it can see connections in the data that we cannot and deliver results that we were looking for,” he adds.

AMP in daily life
AMP's play a vital role in protecting the body from a majority of germs encountered daily.“ATP are tiny proteins made by our skin that fight harmful bacteria by disrupting their outer layer,” says Hoptroff.

“Many skin conditions like eczema, body odor and dandruff are exacerbated when the fine balance of microorganisms living on the skin, known as the microbiome, is disturbed,” explains Unilever. 

“Treating these conditions requires re-establishing balance in the microbiome and creating an environment where AMP's can thrive.” 

The researchers also point out that there is an increasing understanding that the populations of Staphylococcal on the skin microbiome is based on S. hominis to S. epidermidis and S. capitis to S. epidermidis ratios. Staphylococcal can cause underarm odor and affect scalp health. 

Additionally, there is evidence between high Staphylococcus aureus populations and skin conditions like atopic dermatitis. 

“Niacinamide helps to protect the skin from harmful bacteria by boosting the number and effectiveness of the skin’s natural AMP's,” affirms Hoptroff.

By Venya Patel