“Blue beauty movement”: Algae and seaweed propel environmentally sustainable solutions
05 May 2022 --- Unlocking the properties of marine life could lead to a wealth of natural ingredients to be used in personal care NPD.
PersonalCareInsights dives into unique properties in algae and brown seaweed, which offer more environmentally friendly alternatives for anti-aging and skin microbiome balancing. Experts argue that marine-derived ingredients will drive the cosmetics industry in the years ahead, while there remains much potential for further research.
Ángeles de Broto Martín, CEO at Brudy Cosmetics, a Spain-based medical, nutrition and cosmetics expert, speaks with us. At the same time, Amanda Mackinnon, marketing and communications manager at Marinova, an Australian biotechnology company, shares her expertise in high purity fucoidan compounds.
“The ‘blue beauty’ movement is driving additional demand for novel marine ingredients. High purity, certified organic fucoidan extracts for inclusion in unique ‘beauty-from-within’ supplements are also in high demand by market-leading personal care brands,” says Mackinnon about industry demands.
The blue beauty movement for environmental and ocean conservation focuses on the conscious use of ingredients and cosmetics packaging better for the oceans.
Marinova shares that clinical studies showed that at very low inclusion rates, the fucoidan extracts effectively reduce wrinkle visibility in 100% of subjects.
Highly bioactive compounds
“Fucoidans are highly bioactive compounds that occur naturally in brown seaweeds,” says Mackinnon.
The fucoidans are extracted from two species of brown seaweed by Marinova: Undaria pinnatifida and Fucus vesiculosus, both of which have been clinically tested.
“Furthermore, Undaria pinnatifida, commonly known as wakame [native to Japan], inhabits the intertidal zone. However, it has been introduced to Australia and Argentina’s cool, clean waters in recent decades. Fucus vesiculosus is typically found along the sheltered coastlines of the Northern Hemisphere,” explains Mackinnon.
She says that the traditional method of extracting fucoidans involves “utilizing solvents to precipitate the fucoidan polymer from crude seaweed extracts.” However, this method can lead to contaminations and reduced bioactivity in the final product.
Mackinnon highlights that Marinova has developed an extraction technology that overcomes these problems offering the “world’s only high purity, certified organic fucoidan extracts with global regulatory acceptance.”
Fermentation derived Algatrium AL
On the other hand, to apply algae for skincare, the ingredient needs to be extracted. “The Algatrium AL comes from the microalgae schizochytrium,” explains de Broto Martín. The ingredient is a vegan algae-sourced docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).
On questioning how Brudy Cosmetics sources its algae, de Broto Martín says: “The Algatrium AL is sourced by a fermentation method, which then goes through an enzymatic process.”
de Broto Martín shares that BrudyLab has been working with algae for various purposes since 1996 to test the product’s potential at that time.
“We discovered the real activity of our molecule Algatrium AL when we began to test in-vitro in living skin cells for other purposes, such as quality controls.” This was the start of how BrudyLab took inspiration to apply algae for skincare.
Super anti-aging properties
Both Algatrium AL and fucoidans have been noted for their high anti-aging effects. .jpg)
“DHA-Algatrium or Algatrium AL doesn’t have any antioxidants. They order the cells to produce GLUTATION, which could be the most powerful antioxidant known,” shares de Broto Martín.
Algatrium AL, in particular, shines in this regard. de Broto Martín explains that the Intracellular Glutation process must be understood to understand the algae’s effects on anti-aging.
“The Intracellular Glutation is a natural process of the human body. All our cells have it to protect themselves, for example, from the free radicals that oxidize our skin and form spots,” she clarifies.
“DHA-Algatrium or Algatrium AL doesn’t have any antioxidants. They order the cells to produce Glutation, which could be the most powerful antioxidant known.”
“We have demonstrated that Algatrium AL is the only one that can activate this process up to 300% more times than usual. This is why a world patent protects it.”
“The Glutation has to be produced by the cells,” she stresses, “we can’t take it, and that is because it doesn’t have the same bioavailability.”
On the other hand, Marinova notes that clinical studies showed that at very low inclusion rates, the fucoidan extracts were effective at reducing wrinkle visibility in 100% of subjects. “An expert clinician determined a 60% overall improvement in skin appearance, while 80% of study participants self-reported a visual improvement in skin firmness, tightness and elasticity.”
Additionally, “Maritech Bright, derived from Fucus vesiculosus seaweed, is supported by clinical studies showing that it is safe, non-sensitizing and highly effective at brightening the skin by enhancing radiance and visibly reducing the appearance of age spot pigmentation,” says Mackinnon.
“Maritech Bright is further supported by research into the inhibition of elastase, collagenase and tyrosinase – key enzymes known to accelerate the visible signs of aging.”
Fucus vesiculosus seaweed-derived ingredients have inherent antioxidant activities, making it attractive to skincare formulators, thinks Mackinnon.
Building up the skin microbiome
Moreover, Maritech Reverse, derived from Undaria pinnatifida seaweed, offers clinically proven soothing properties to protect the building blocks of the skin by enhancing dermal condition and balancing the skin microbiome, shares Mackinnon.
“Natural, efficacious ingredients that are the product of genuine sustainability practices will continue to rise in demand. Marinova’s investment into skin microbiome research indicates a potential future for fucoidan in the dermatological category.”
Marinova shares that an in-vitro study investigating the effects of fucoidan on the skin microbiome found that it “significantly” inhibited the adhesion of the bacterium Staphylococcus aureus, which aggravates atopic dermatitis.
Effects of fucoidan on the skin microbiome found that it “significantly” inhibited the adhesion of the bacterium Staphylococcus aureus, which aggravates atopic dermatitis.
“Fucoidan extracts offer versatility, efficacy and stability to suit various application,” she continues.
Ensuring sustainable and pure extracts
Mackinnon and de Broto Martín agree that marine-based ingredients have a lot to offer in terms of sustainable sourcing and also further scientific explorations.
“The main point for our products is that they are ecologically sustainable,” states de Broto Martín.
“Algatrium AL comes from a controlled environment, where the level of contaminants is zero, and there are also no nano plastic particles present. So, the contaminants will not be in the skin.”
“Marinova also ensures that both seaweed species are hand-harvested on an environmentally sustainable basis enabling the robust regrowth of this rapidly renewable marine resource.”
Eco-friendly alternatives for industry
de Broto Martín also sees algae-based products impacting the beauty industry and trends in the future.
The Algatrium AL is sourced by a fermentation method.
“Personally, I think algae-based products will lead to the future for a more sustainable world. Additionally, I think that we have not discovered the real power of algae.”
Previously, Checkerspot and DIC Corporation scaled sustainable microalgae for skincare, aiming toward a “post-petroleum future.” They believe that microalgae can offer high-performance ingredients for the personal care sector.
Mackinnon also notes how fucoidan, with its clinically proven benefits, will be sought after by brands looking for ingredients that align with a strong commitment to sustainability.
Mackinnon recommends that product formulators should seek clear answers.
“Is it certified organic? Where and how is the seaweed sourced? What is the extraction process? What is the purity of the extract? Where is the supporting science? What quality control is in place? Does the extract comply with global regulations?”
Mackinnon previously told PersonalCareInsights that seaweed has a significant role in the nutricosmetic category, which can be used to extract various bio-active compounds, vitamins, minerals, amino acids and lipids.
By Venya Patel
