Classic ingredients reimagined: The rise of upcycled beauty

The beauty industry is undergoing a shift in ingredient formulation driven by growing environmental awareness, technological innovation, and consumer demand for natural, high-performance solutions.

Market researcher Innova Market Insights’ data indicates that, in the past year, over 31% of global consumers have chosen products with naturally sourced ingredients, 21% have chosen fair trade products, and 27% have researched and chosen more sustainably-minded brands.

Traditional ingredients are being reimagined through advanced scientific processes, upcycling, and biotechnology. Personal Care Insights speaks to Sophim and Lignopure to find out about the ingredients they upcycle and what they mean for the beauty industry.

Squalane solutions

Squalane is a commonly used emollient in personal care, known for its hydration and skin barrier-enhancing properties. Sophim has tweaked this ingredient by developing Phytosqualan, an upcycled version derived from olive oil distillates.

“Squalane is a biocompatible emollient and a staple in the cosmetics industry,” explains Cécile Pinatel, marketing and communication manager at Sophim. “Phytosqualan is clinically proven to reduce trans-epidermal water loss significantly. It enhances skin hydration while supporting elasticity and firmness.”

“The refining process that transforms olive oil into an edible product also generates byproducts. While these distillates are unsuitable for human consumption, they contain a high-value molecule: squalene,” Pinatel says.

Traditionally, squalane is made from shark liver and requires 3,000 sharks for one metric ton of the ingredient. Sophim’s olive-derived squalane reduces environmental impact and the reliance on endangered marine species. It also helps build a renewable and more ethical supply chain, which appeals to eco-conscious consumers who are increasingly focusing on the fine print of ingredient origins.

“As consumers become more informed and conscious of their environmental impact, they expect higher sustainability standards from their cosmetic products.”

“Phytosqualan embodies the growing demand for natural, sustainable, and ethically sourced ingredients in the beauty industry. It supports circular economy principles by minimizing waste and maximizing resource efficiency,” says Pinatel.

Phytosqualan can be integrated into various formulations, including face creams, serums, lip balms, makeup formulas, hair mists, leave-in products, and sun care products. The emollient can also be incorporated across different forms and offers multi-benefit properties.

Sophim manufactures its phytosqualan from upcycled olive oil distillates from the food industry.Despite its versatility, Pinatel says that in recent years, Sophim has observed a “growing interest in hair care applications, aligning with market trends and innovation in the industry.”

Lignin’s circular contribution

The growing acceptance of upcycled ingredients highlights a change in consumer perception — where byproducts are no longer seen as inferior but rather as responsible and resourceful solutions.

Lignin is emerging as a sustainable cosmetic ingredient in this category. Traditionally considered an industrial byproduct, companies like Lignopure are now extracting lignin from wood and biomass and repurposing it for high-performance personal care applications.

“Lignopure’s innovation perfectly aligns with the upcycling trend in the beauty industry. By transforming a side-stream into natural multifunctional cosmetic ingredients, Lignopure contributes to a circular economy,” says Gabriela Meza Armenta, head of sales and marketing at Lignopure.

Functional skin care 

Lignin boasts a range of functional benefits for skin care and cosmetic formulations. One of its stand-out attributes is its antioxidant functions.

“Lignin’s complex polyphenolic structure provides potent antioxidant activity that protects oxidative-prone actives in formulation — making it more stable and therefore effective,” says Meza Armenta. She emphasizes that lignin also acts as a skin antioxidant to protect it from free radicals and oxidative stress.

Additionally, it enhances the efficacy of UV filters by broadening their absorption spectrum and improving the film-forming properties of formulations.

“Lignin offers SPF optimization by acting as a booster to enhance the performance of other UV filters. Its action mechanisms go from light scattering effect to creating a synergetic effect with UV filters that broadens the UV absorption spectrum and increases the film-forming capacities of formulations for even distribution and better skin protection,” Meza Armenta explains.

Formulators may face technical challenges when working with lignin-based ingredients. One is that lignin has limited solubility in common cosmetic solvents, making it better suited for solid and powder-based applications.Lignopure extracts lignin from wood and biomass and repurposes it for high-performance personal care applications.

Expanding ethical production

Scaling lignin-based ingredient production comes with its own set of challenges. Traceability, responsible sourcing, and supply chain consistency are crucial, especially as production volumes grow.

“A challenge is to ensure a consistent supply chain due to the complex variations in the production of lignin depending on variations in the process, and plants,” notes Meza Armenta.

She says Lignopure is creating standard procedures to scout lignin for cosmetic use, categorize the origin and extraction mechanisms, and make a network of certified providers willing to ensure quality batch-to-batch, sustainable, and clean sources and practices.

“Also, a big part would be that biorefineries develop their own technology to make it more cost-effective,” she adds.

According to Meza Armenata, Lignopure ensures the responsible sourcing of lignin by partnering with second-generation biorefineries that work primarily with non-food competitive sources.

“Our raw lignin suppliers work mainly with non-food competitive sources, ensuring that we are not using food sources that could be used for human consumption.”

Rather than relying solely on traditional raw material sourcing, upcycling allows beauty companies to extract value from byproducts that would otherwise go to waste. Sophim and Lignopure’s reinvention of ingredients through upcycling marks a new era for personal care formulations as companies delve deeper into ingredient science.