Clean and functional botanicals: Green switches for plant-based skin care formulations

07 Aug 2023 --- With many formulators transitioning away from synthetic compounds toward botanical extracts with up-to-par functionalities, suppliers are having to keep pace with demand for these natural solutions. In this report, Personal Care Insights explores the latest advancements in natural wellness-boosting botanical extracts, alternatives to artificial polymers and “eco-luxury” vegan collagen.

Greener switches for formulas
Lessonia has revealed its Alter-Powders range of plant-based ingredients, which are marketed as technical alternatives to unwanted ingredients such as synthetic polymers, talc, surfactants and modified starches.

“The alternative powders in the Alter Powders range are natural, plant based, COSMOS-compliant and Ok China certified. These powders are white or very light color and odorless,” says Morgane Boucher, R&D manager at Lessonia.

“Meeting these two criteria was very ambitious and we are delighted to offer these alternative natural ingredients.”

The Joyolist is an inner wellness-boosting line of plant-based solutions by Clariant (Image credit: Clariant).To develop the ingredients, Lessonia has shifted away from manufacturing exfoliating particles and micronized plant powders. The COSMOS-compliant range is the result of an R&D project aimed at identifying the potential cosmetic applications of many white and colorless plant raw materials, per the company.

The ingredients include Alter-Emulfaba (Acacia senegal gum, sclerotium gum and hydrolyzed cicer seed extract) – a powder emulsifier made from natural and plant-based extracts that has few incompatibilities. The ingredient is a plant-based alternative to the surfactants normally used in emulsions, designed for “very white emulsions with a soft, non-sticky and non-soapy feel.”

The next highlighted ingredient is Alter-ThickBarley (Hordeum vulgare seed flour). This ingredient is a natural and plant-based high viscosity thickener powder with non-greasy textures and a powdery effect. It is an alternative to modified starches and synthetic polymers.

Thirdly, Lessonia offers Alter-Gelijac (glucomannan), a natural and plant-based gelling agent that leaves a protective film on the skin and allows to obtain high viscosity and translucent gels. This ingredient is marketed as an alternative to xanthan, carbomer or synthetic polymers. 

Next up, the brand features Alter-Suspensilia (Sterculia urens gum and Sclerotium gum), a natural and plant-based suspensory agent powder. It is offered as an alternative to synthetic polymers, with a high suspension capacity and low viscosity.

Lastly, Lessonia highlights its Alter-Talcanioc ingredient (cellulose acetate and tapioca starch), a plant-based alternative to talc with the same hydrophobic properties. It is ideal for protecting the skin against moisture and is good for formulating baby powders, makeup or for use as a touch agent.

Naturally boosting wellness
This year, Clariant Actives and Natural Origins unveiled two plant-based formulations to promote inner wellness.

The Feel-Good Magic Stick and Forget-It-All Relaxing Mask are formulations developed as part of Clariant’s new “The Joyologist” concept, focused on delivering a multi-sensory experience to consumers for mood enhancement and relaxation.

The company cites consumer research conducted between 2021-2026, which highlights that consumers believe that beauty care can “help them feel happier and more confident.” 

“Among 29 potential sources of happiness measured, 55% of people across the world said they are most likely to derive ‘the greatest happiness’ from health and physical well-being,” says Flávia Igreja, global marketing and formulation manager for Actives and Natural Origins at Clariant.

“This inner wellness can further increase if personal care products are also aligned with their concerns for safety and the conservation of nature.”

The “Feel-Good Magic Stick” is a water-based facial skin stick that provides a relaxing, fresh effect at any moment of the day for a well-being push. Aqueous gels provide cooling sensations to the skin thanks to their water-based formulation and the gel in the “Feel-Good Magic Stick” has a lightweight, non-greasy texture that absorbs quickly into the skin, leaving it feeling soft and hydrated.

La V’Rose has unveiled a luxury-positioned vegan collagen product, in line with growing demand for plant-based skin care (Image credit: La V’rose).The formulation is based on Clariant’s new active ingredient Rootness Mood+ that reproduces the natural benefits of light to revitalize the skin and enhance the mood. Sourced from Sanguisorba officinalis, a plant used in traditional Chinese medicine, it is derived from environmentally friendly plant-milking technology.

As an ideal complement to the Feel-Good Magic Stick, the “Forget-It-All Relaxing Mask” is applied to the skin at the end of the day. Offered in a multi-sensorial relaxation set, which includes a scented candle and relaxing playlist, the facial care mask has a soft texture that leaves skin feeling relaxed and soothed.

Its key active ingredient is Beracare CBA, a complex blend in which copaiba oil’s is blended with passion fruit oil. Beracare CBA, which is sourced responsibly from renewable resources in the Amazon, offers an alternative to cannabidiol (CBD), soothing sensitive skin by targeting the skin’s endocannabinoid system.

Both Rootness Mood+ and Beracare CBA were key features of Clariant’s exhibition space at last March’s In-Cosmetics Global show, which Personal Care Insights reported live from in Barcelona, Spain.

Luxury vegan collagen
As animal-free products have been gaining traction in line with plant-based demand, La V’rose has released a premium-positioned vegan collagen product touted with the benefits of luxury skin care without the application of toxic synthetic chemicals that have been tested on animals.

Collagen is naturally found in the body. However, as people age the ability to produce collagen decreases. Collagen cosmetics rejuvenate the skin to provide a younger and healthier appearance. 

“Those who have an aversion to products containing animal byproducts have had to find alternatives to reverse aging and maintain youthfulness,” states La V’rose. 

La V’rose’s “eco-luxury” vegan skincare collection boasts “dynamic” formulas featuring “age-reversing” complexes designed to target the signs of premature skin aging such as fine lines and deep wrinkles. 

Each product in the collection contains ingredients which speed up the skin’s regeneration cycle.

The brand’s Collagen Rescue Serum and Trifecta Repair Serum are formulated from a “blend of powerful and premium botanical extracts, renowned for their nourishing properties and potency.” 

The Collagen Rescue Serum “harmoniously balances” nourishing extracts with plant-derived collagen protein to support the skin’s structure. The serum’s time-released retinol complex featured in the Trifecta Repair Serum works to reduce fine lines and wrinkles while retaining moisture balance. 

The new plant-based skincare line is also backed by independent customer testing.

By Benjamin Ferrer