In-Cosmetics Global live: Clariant’s botanical cosmeceuticals boost mood and harness sunlight for skin health
28 Mar 2023 --- Clariant has unveiled four sustainable and natural cosmeceuticals telling a story of provenance, featured at the ongoing In-Cosmetics Global 2023 trade show. To craft its ingredients, the specialty chemicals supplier scoured various geographical sources – from the Amazon forest to the Peruvian Andes – and consulted ancient Traditional Chinese Medicine knowledge.
PersonalCareInsights is reporting live from the company’s booth at the ongoing In-Cosmetics Global 2023 trade show, held in Barcelona, Spain (March 28-30).
Alt-CBD from the Amazon
Clariant is presenting its active ingredient Beracare CBA, a natural alternative to cannabidiol (CBD) made from a complex blend of powerful oils, including copaiba, sourced from renewable sources in the Amazon.
The solution activates the body’s cannabinoid type 2 receptors (CB2) to soothe the skin, improving the well-being of sensitive skin. Its functionality is boosted by passion fruit oil, which is harvested sustainably by the supplier.
Around 50% of women and 40% of men suffer from sensitive skin, the company highlights. Caused by external stress factors or physiological stress, sensitive skin mainly manifests itself in unpleasant sensations such as stinging, burning or tingling, which can also be accompanied by redness.
Beracare CBA provides a CBD-like effect by targeting the skin’s endocannabinoid system, activating the CB2 receptors. This helps increase the production of β-endorphin, creating a soothing effect deemed “superior” to cannabis-sourced CBD.
Clariant cites new data evidencing that the active ingredient effectively reduces skin sensitivity by 61% after seven days and 71% after 28 days, decreasing redness and irritation.
“With their recognized potential for promoting overall skin wellness, products using cannabidiol are attracting increased attention. Yet, CBD faces regulatory concerns in many countries. With Beracare CBA, Clariant is offering a powerful, natural alternative without the regulatory challenges,” remarks Julie Droux, global technical marketing manager for Actives and Natural Origins.
Harnessing light’s rejuvenation
Clariant’s next active ingredient, Rootness Mood+, takes advantage of the recognized effects of light and concentrates them in an eco-responsible extract.
Natural light provides essential health benefits, from warding off seasonal affective disorder to improving sleep. In regions with low light levels, populations suffer from the winter blues and low mood. Skin disorders are more prevalent compared to regions with higher light levels.
Dramatically, around 75% of the worldwide population is deficient in vitamin D due to excessive time spent indoors, highlights the company.
Rootness Mood+ comes from the roots of Sanguisorba officinalis, a plant used in traditional Chinese medicine. Commonly known as the great burnet, the plant develops “at the sight of the sun.” Rootness Mood+ can enhance sunlight benefits, improving mood and equalizing skin tone. It reactivates the skin’s natural radiance and improves skin complexion through the triggering of skin photoreceptors, the opsins, and can also help increase the effect of vitamin D in the skin by upregulating vitamin D downstream pathways.
“Our modern lifestyles make us forget the need to spend time outdoors and this has direct effects on skin appearance. Rootness Mood+ can buffer against the effects of seasonal variations and reduced sun exposure, cosmetically reproducing light’s benefits on the skin, offering a way to improve skin beauty and complexion,” comments Droux.
Cultivated in aeroponic conditions, due to patented and eco-responsible Plant Milking technology, this special new active ingredient is also highly sustainable.
Biodegradable rheology modifiers from Peru
Meanwhile, Clariant’s newest rheology modifier, Aristoflex Eco T, is designed toward “luxurious, pleasant texture” biodegradable formulations. Based on a patented technology, the solution is marketed as the first modified biopolymer approaching the performance of synthetics while also being readily biodegradable and naturally derived.
Rheology modifiers are a key ingredient in skincare formulations. They influence texture, viscosity and formulation stability and have an impact on skin feel and overall sensorial experience.
Traditionally, synthetic polymers offer good performance but are not natural or biodegradable.
Conversely, natural biopolymers have often suffered performance drawbacks that can present a challenge to formulators aiming to create products with luxurious textures and skin feel.
“With the launch of Plantasens Biogum Tara back in 2021, Clariant started the journey toward sustainable high performing rheology modifiers. Aristoflex Eco T is our next step on this journey and unlocks new possibilities for formulators in creating sophisticated, yet sustainable skin care Products,” remarks Michael Haspel, Clariant’s head of Personal Care & Home Care.
The new rheology modifier is naturally derived from Tara Gum, obtained from the Tara spinosa plant that grows in the Peruvian Andes. It is readily biodegradable meaning that it doesn’t build-up in the environment and has a renewable carbon index of 71%.
With an ability to stabilize oils and pigments, Aristoflex Eco T can be used across a range of applications including facial creams, body lotions and skin serums. It also works well in sun care products containing organic and mineral UV Filters.
Moisture-locking emollient for pigments
Clariant is also featuring a natural emollient, Plantasens Pro LM, which provides a luxurious, rich and “caring feel” to skin during and after application. With a growing demand for healthy looking skin, the ingredient delivers moisture to the skin and is also designed to combine well with UV filters and pigments.
This emollient is designed to deliver its skin benefits across a broad range of sun care and color cosmetic application areas, as well as skin care. WIth this ingredient, sunscreens and make-up formulations can be marketed with “moisturizing” and “hydrating” positionings.
“We see increasingly skincare-educated consumers who seek to maximize benefits from their skincare routines and in particular, seek moisturizing benefits throughout their routine – from cleansing to makeup application. Plantasens Pro LM addresses exactly this,” says Michael Haspel, head of Personal & Home Care at Clariant.
Plantasens Pro LM is branded 100% natural and readily biodegradable. It is also COSMOS and Natrue certified.
In other botanical innovation highlights featured at In-Cosmetics Global 2023, Mibelle Biochemistry is showcasing a timut pepper-based skin health ingredient branded TiMood.
Meanwhile, Nouryon is highlighting new sun care solutions formulated using its latest polymer solution, SolAmaze. This 100% bio-based film is water resistant and provides high-SPF emulsion in sunscreens.
PersonalCareInsights will continue reporting live from the industry event throughout this week.
By Benjamin Ferrer, with live reporting from Radhika Sikaria at In-Cosmetics Global 2023
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