Eco-friendly formulations: Beauty solutions feature biodegradable film formers and olfactive neurocosmetics

16 Apr 2024 --- Biochemistry advancements are greening up cosmetic formulators’ toolkits with circular and less environmentally intensive beauty solutions. In this category, suppliers introduce upcycled olfactory ingredients with mood-boosting benefits, AI-based botanical solutions and a biodegradable natural film former, among other novelties. 

Personal Care Insights explores the latest developments in environmentally sustainable beauty formulations, with insights from Symrise, Lubrizol Life Science Beauty (LLS Beauty) and Ashland.

Innova Market Insights data indicates the prevalence of sustainability claims in cosmetic releases is rising worldwide, showing year-over-year growth of 3% from October 2021 to September 2023.

According to the global market researcher, Face/Body Cosmetics was the leading category for these sustainable launches. The top claims were “Ethical – Animal/Fish & Bird,” “Ethical – Packaging” and “Ethical – Human.”

Mood-stimulating neurocosmetics
The Cosmetic Ingredients division of Symrise introduces Flowerconcentrole, a collection of “easy-to-formulate” olfactive flower extracts that “work well with all product and skin types.”

Flowerconcentrole’s functional plant extracts are sustainably sourced from Madagascar, France, and Bulgaria, with “full traceability” to the field, which ensures ethical and environmental practices, according to the supplier.

Made from “100% natural” (in line with ISO 16128) and upcycled ingredients and “readily biodegradable,” the collection aims to help brands meet the growing consumer demand for more sustainable cosmetics.

The products in this range are made with the company’s Actimood technology and are designed to bring mood-enhancing properties to clean skin care formulations. That helps brands deliver neurocosmetic benefits to consumers, claims the supplier.

“We feel delighted to launch this new functional flower extract range, using our neuroscience capabilities to link olfactive skin care with mood enhancement,” says Marcus Höflich, global category director of Botanicals at Symrise.

“People have associated botanicals with emotions for a long time. Flowerconcentrole marks the next step in our 70-year journey as an innovator in this field, helping skin care brands release the full potential of flower extracts while caring for the environment.”

The transparent or slightly opalescent liquids of the Flowerconcentrole products emanate a “delicate and characteristic scent” that emphasizes neuroscientific link between the olfactive properties of plant extracts and the stimulation of positive emotions. 

Symrise introduces Flowerconcentrole, sustainably sourced mood-boosting flower extracts.The new collection is proven to evoke feelings of “relaxation, well-being, protection, joy and freshness,” Symrise claims.

The products are “easy to use and handle” in any emulsion or water-based formula. This allows cold processing that saves both time and energy, enabling more sustainable operations, Symrise highlights.

Flowerconcentrole products can mask the smell of many formula bases and, according to the supplier, the flower extracts support consumer safety as they are known for their antimicrobial properties.

AI-processed and multifunctional botanicals
Ashland introduces a broad range of botanical-based ingredients that feature upcycling production processes and AI-boosted and multifunctional applications in skin care.

“Our new products are designed to leap off the lab bench and into the field, delivering sustainable solutions to fuel customers’ growth and delight consumers all over the world,” says Xiaolan Wang, senior vice president and general manager of personal care, Ashland.

“Whether you’re interested in sustainable sourcing, naturally derived ingredients, or biodegradable solutions that unlock consumer demand, Ashland will help you bring your innovations to life while responsibly solving for a better world.”

Within the range, Ashland’s Liftyl Biofunctional is made from upcycling wood chips, the byproduct of the rosewood essential oil distillation process used in premium fragrances. Obtained using supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, the AI-based retinol alternative is sustainably sourced in Peru with full traceability, transparency and CITES-required documentation for preserving rare rosewood.

Saffragyl Biofunctional is Ashland’s “breakthrough innovation in oral beauty” that uses 100% natural and biodegradable upcycled saffron flower byproduct from the saffron spice handcraft for daily gum care. It is sustainably sourced in France, with full traceability and transparency over the supply chain including responsible farming practices and a sustainable extraction process.

Antaron soja glyceride is a nature-derived, biodegradable, non-microplastic film former that provides water resistance, SPF boosting, long-wear and color transfer resistance. This vegan, non-GMO, non-greasy film former can be used to make more natural, better-performing sun care and color cosmetic formulations, including creams, lotions, gels, sprays and lipsticks.

Ashland is upcycling saffron flower byproduct from the spice industry into a functional ingredient for gum care.Puraloe is Ashland’s aloe vera offering, sourced from a “reliable field-to-market model.” It joins the company’s ongoing sustainable guar initiatives under the Ashland Responsible Solvers program. Like the sustainable farming of guar in the Sriganganagar district of Rajasthan, India, Ashland has upgraded Puraloe farm facilities and improved infrastructure conditions for community harvesters across Jaumave Tamaulipas, Mexico.

Biodegradable film former
LLS Beauty introduces Sensomer Tara polymer, a multifunctional, biodegradable natural film former and thickener with “excellent sensory and synergistic behavior” when combined with other thickeners. 

Considered “flexible by nature,” the ingredient enhances the consumer’s sensory experience in skin care, hair care and hair color applications. 

“Sensomer Tara polymer has the ability to reach a viscosity of 40,000 mPa∙s, enabling the creation of high-viscosity formulations for a thicker, creamier and silkier feel in beauty formulations, including moisturizers, sunscreens, hair conditioners, styling products and color treatments,” details the company.

Sensomer Tara polymer has a silky feel in skin care applications with no drag or stickiness, while its creamy texture provides good pickup with no stringiness. A blind test revealed a perception of the polymer being softer and less sticky during the application, with reduced pilling in after-feel.

The ingredient also has a synergy with Kelco-Care diutan gum that increases the yield value, leading to robust emulsion stabilization and higher viscosity, notes LLS Beauty.

According to the supplier, when added to conditioners and treatments, Sensomer Tara polymer brings conditioning benefits to the fiber while providing a smooth and easy-to-spread texture.

“In styling applications, it shows better curl retention and better smoothness than guar gum. In addition, it has anti-pollution properties, protecting the fiber against particle adhesion. Finally, in coloration it enables no-drip rheology for a better consumer experience,” details LLS Beauty.

According to the manufacturer, Sensomer Tara polymer is COSMOS-approved, vegan and microbiome-friendly. It is also readily biodegradable (according to OECD 301F), NOC 100% (according to ISO16128) and obtained by a 100% mechanical process undertaken on the Tara endosperm, giving it a “high sustainability” profile.

By Benjamin Ferrer