Healthy hair: Spotlight on AI-powered drug, probiotics and precision fermentation

The hair care industry is embracing new developments, from drugs that block hair loss molecules to probiotics enhancing follicle health and bond-building technology for hair repair. Sustainable, health-centric solutions are reshaping hair care for better growth, luster and scalp health.

Personal Care Insights speaks to biotechnology company Curie Co about its biotechnology-based bond builder and looks at the latest research on probiotics and a new drug in hair care.

Precision fermentation innovation

Sustainability meets high performance with Curamina, a biotechnology-made ingredient designed for hair repair, developed using precision fermentation.

Erika Milczek, CEO at Curie Co tells us: “Curamina is designed to mimic human transglutaminase, enzymes found in hair follicles and skin known to create peptide bonds that support skin and hair health.”

“Curamina is a dual-action bioactive bond builder designed to work with protein ingredients. It creates essential peptide bonds and delivers long-lasting film-forming properties when paired with protein ingredients. Curamina works at ambient temperatures, requires no chemicals for activation and aligns with consumer demand for clean beauty.”

Curamina is made using precision fermentation that uses renewable resources and sustainable biotechnology processes, says Milczek continues. “Its bioactive formulation meets clean beauty standards and supports environmentally conscious formulation practices.” 

The ingredient is also touted to be fully and readily biodegradable, with over 99% natural origin and 99% USDA BioPreferred.

Bond-building tech

Milczek is a chemist who believes Curamina’s sustainable profile and on-par performance make it appealing to formulators and product developers who seek effective natural ingredients.

Type I natural white hair was exposed to 85% relative humidity for two hours. The Curamina and Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen treatment smoothed hair cuticle vs. untreated swatch.“Curamina is the next generation of bond-building technology for hair care, uniquely initiating new peptide bonds on the hair fiber. It Curamina can form peptide bonds with the naturally derived keratin on the hair fiber,” says Milczek, who holds a doctorate in chemistry. “However, for best performance, co-formulate Curamina with common protein ingredients, like hydrolyzed keratin, collagen and wheat.”

Milczek explains the mechanism behind Curamina’s functionality starts with creating peptide bond with the hair protein, creating a durable film on the hair. 

“Curamina initiates peptide bonds with the protein, creating a durable film on the hair fiber that essentially locks in the protein and amplifies the benefits. Our studies thus far have revealed that Curamina, in combination with protein, smooths the hair cuticle, promoting hair health, boosting styling and manageability benefits, retaining hair color and more. The long-lasting film is shown to increase humidity and water resistance, helping to maintain styles, curls and frizz control,” she says.

Probiotics on rise

Probiotics — health-beneficial live microorganisms — are gaining attention in hair and scalp health. A recent review in Heliyon highlights their potential to support hair growth and manage dandruff. Researchers analyzed data from multiple studies, including eight clinical and preclinical trials, to assess the effects of probiotics on hair health.

The findings suggest probiotics may improve hair thickness and increase hair follicle counts, with preliminary trials showing promising results. Scientists believe probiotics influence key pathways like Wnt/β-catenin and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), vital for follicle and skin health, while also enhancing gut health, a known contributor to overall wellness.

Despite the promise, researchers stress that further studies are needed to transform these findings into practical applications. Probiotics, however, reflect a larger shift toward natural and health-focused beauty solutions.

Probiotic LB-P9

Extending the benefits of probiotics, a recent study in Frontiers in Nutrition found “significant improvements” in hair luster, elasticity and participant satisfaction who took oral supplements containing Latilactobacillus curvatus LB-P9.

Type III virgin hair was dampened, treated with water (control), Curamina and hydrolyzed keratin and dried at 50ºC. Treated hair visibly reduced frizz and defined curls.Probiotics, such as LB-P9, may be an alternative for managing hair health, according to the scientists. They note probiotics are rising solutions to improving hair health as consumers are interested in alternative approaches to cosmetics and foods.

The trial included 80 participants (aged 18 to 60) who had mild to moderate hair damage. Participants were randomly assigned to receive either the LB-P9 supplements or a placebo. 

Scientists noted that the supplement group’s hair luster parameter increased in 24 weeks and improved by 19% over the control group. Also, hair luster among females with short hair had a notable rise.

Furthermore, at 24 weeks, the LB-P9 group’s hair tensile strength — which measures hair elasticity and participant satisfaction — increased by 10.27 ± 16.40 (gf/mm2). 

Additionally, participants did not report significant adverse reactions, and safety evaluations showed no negative effects linked to LB-P9 consumption.

Targeting hair loss with AI-powered drugs

Building on the search for advanced solutions, a new study in Cosmetics has developed a drug that blocks prostaglandin D2 (PGD2), a molecule linked to hair loss. PGD2 levels are elevated in balding areas, stopping hair growth and damaging follicles.

Using the AI-based DeepZema program, researchers identified DP2 antagonist (DP2A), which counteracts PGD2. This compound helps heal damaged hair cells and stimulates hair growth. Studies showed DP2A improved hair health by promoting wound healing, reducing oxidative stress and increasing alkaline phosphatase levels in human hair follicle cultures.

In addition to improving cellular conditions, DP2A was seen to improve hair growth in human hair follicle organ cultures.

Hair care innovations

As these scientific and technological advances advance, brands are introducing innovative products tailored to modern hair care needs. For example, CeraVe’s new anti-dandruff shampoo and conditioner address ceramide deficiencies, catering to a diverse demographic through rigorous testing.

Raven Innovations introduced RestoraScalp, said to be the first medicated dry shampoo designed to manage scalp issues like dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis. The pharmaceutical company makes dermatological OTC products. 

Concerned that about half of the world’s population suffers from scalp issues, Raven Innovations created a dry shampoo as an alternative to medicated wet shampoo. This enables the product to stay longer than rinse-off shampoos, which can enable more effective treatment of the condition. RestoraScalp is vegan, fragrance-free and blends into all skin types.