Skinification trend intensifies in hair and body care as consumers seek multiple functionalities

26 Mar 2024 --- The transition of skin care ingredients into products like makeup and shower products births a new category of beauty that blends multiple functionalities. With the developing “skinification” trend evolving considerably over the last two years, Personal Care Insights examines the latest products and developments, with input from Innova Market Insights and Lubrizol Life Science.

“Skinification is defined as the migration of commonly known skin care actives into other categories, mainly hair care, sunscreens, cosmetics, body care and shower products,” says Sugandha Bandyopadhyay, team lead for Beauty, Personal Care & Household at Innova Market Insights.

The global market researcher started seeing the skinification trend emerge around late 2022, which took to strong growth in mid-2023, Bandyopadhyay highlights. “However, the application and effect of skinification are different in each of the newer categories it is coming into.”

“Skinification put the spotlight on ‘scalp care’ and ‘scalp barrier’ repair and restore benefits in hair care, especially shampoos, serums and conditioners,” she adds. “On the other hand, body care and hand, bath and shower categories see the application of skinification to improve the ‘body skin barrier’ with moisture balance, repairing and restoration benefits.”

The US occupies the largest NPD share of skinification products, while Mexico is gaining ground.Breakdown of skinification
In the sunscreens category, Bandyopadhyay highlights that the skinification trend works in two ways. “The first is to give added skin care benefits to the sunscreens in line with the minimalism trend to reduce the number of products used in daytime routines (multifunctional products).”

“The second is to negate the drying textures of mineral sunscreens (zinc-based primarily) and add some moisture balance to the skin barrier.”

In the cosmetics segment, Bandyopadhyay believes interest in skinification began with the inclusion of a variety of natural ingredients in cosmetic formulations, especially essential oils and shea and murumuru butters, which came from growing consumer fears and imposing government regulations against a variety of artificial compounds in cosmetics that had harmful effects, leading to the rise of clean beauty.

“However, this trend itself has evolved in cosmetics now, where it is moving beyond just ‘safety claims’ and stepping into ‘functionality’ with the inclusion of skin care actives — like peptides, ceramides and others — in various face/body and lip cosmetics,” she adds.

National and regional market activity
The US occupies the highest market share of the presence of skin care ingredients in hair care products, with 35% CAGR from Jan 2019 to Dec 2023, Bandyopadhyay highlights.

“However, in terms of rapid innovations, Mexico is gaining ground, despite a smaller market size, with 72% CAGR during the same period,” she reveals. “This is especially relevant since scalp nourishment is an important claim for consumers in LATAM and natural ‘superfood’ ingredients like vitamins are a key focus there.”

“In the Body Care and Hand, Bath & Shower categories, rapid inclusion of skin care actives in these two categories are especially relevant in Indonesia and China with 150% and 61% CAGR, respectively, in January 2019 to December 2023. The US currently occupies the highest NPD share.”

For sunscreens with skin care actives, Bandyopadhyay identifies West Europe and Asia as the top regions with the highest NPD share with “decent growth” at 32% and 26%, respectively, from January 2019 to December 2023.

“Lastly, in terms of cosmetics, Europe is a trending region for market shifts toward ‘safer formulations’ with added skin care actives in cosmetics as it is bolstered by government regulations and existing clean beauty trends,” she adds.

Top featured skin care ingredients
Bandyopadhyay identifies that skinification is especially relevant with new product development in hair care. “That is where the migration of actives first began — before other categories took over.”

Innova Market Insights highlights the top skin care ingredients that have come into “special focus” in the skinification trend throughout 2023, which include ceramides (“scalp barrier restoration and repair”), peptides (“hair bond repair and scalp barrier benefits”) and niacinamide (“promotes overall scalp health and hair texture, shine and hair growth”).

In sunscreens, Innova Market Insights sees the emergence of new “skinified” formats like sunsticks and sprays.Other spotlighted hero ingredients include hyaluronic acid (“moisturizing and hydrating”), collagen and collagen variants (“vegan and plant-based collagen, among others”) and salicylic acid (“relating to anti-dandruff claims”).

“Besides that, across body care, shower, cosmetics and sun care, featured skinification ingredients include ceramides, squalene, shea butter and cocoa butter,” notes Bandyopadhyay.

“Especially in beauty products, ceramides witness rapid growth at +73% CAGR from Jan 2019 to Dec 2023, occupying a mid-sized market of nearly 4,000 products, 50% of which were launched in 2023.”

Moreover, Bandyopadhyay adds that hyaluronic acid is now a “mainstream ingredient” included in cosmetics for its hydrating benefits, occupying around 40,000 beauty launches and displaying “progressive growth” from Jan 2019 and Dec 2023 and a strong 52% growth year-over-year from Jan 2022 to Dec 2023, reflected in Innova Market Insights data.

New categories
New formats in categories that are affected by skinification are mostly packaged to promote higher degrees of precision in dosage and reduce waste. 

“Primarily, we see innovations in formats in the form of ampoules, sheet masks and serums in hair care,” details Bandyopadhyay. “Furthermore, there is an emergence of pre-shampoo treatments to enhance daily hair care routines.”

In sunscreens, Innova Market Insights sees the emergence of new “skinified” formats like sunsticks and sprays. “In body care, we see growth in a variety of body treatments, including the shower category with specialization in bath and shower treatments,” adds Bandyopadhyay.

“In shampoos, hair treatments and conditioners, we see a strong presence of L’Oréal brands, like Kérastase, Garnier and L’Oréal Paris. This is especially relevant since L’Oréal is increasingly focusing on its R&D innovations and rebranding itself with more “science-backed” ingredients and claims.

“Lastly, in face/body and lip cosmetics, MAC Cosmetics is leading the skinification trend in cosmetics, especially relevant with its new ‘serum foundation’ launch that boosts 33 skin care actives (including 10% hyaluronic acid).”

Lubrizol’s heptapeptide for healthy scalps
For the hair care “skinified” category, Lubrizol has developed Fensebiome peptide, a heptapeptide intended to reinforce the double cutaneous barrier function in the skin and scalp, by “promoting microbiota balance” and “physical barrier enhancement,” associated with a healthier and younger appearance.

“Fensebiome peptide protects the skin and scalp, enhancing the microbiota and physical barriers, counteracting the negative effect of external aggressors brought on by urban lifestyles and hyper-cleanliness practices, in addition to intrinsic aging,” Dorota Niemczycka marketing communications manager, tells Personal Care Insights.

“Studied initially for the skin where the peptide was found to reinforce the bacterial protective shield and the physical barrier, the skinification trend made it an ideal candidate for a scalp problem solver.”

Recent studies of the scalp cited by the company claim that Fensebiome peptide increased beneficial scalp microbiota and modulated age-induced changes associated with a rejuvenated and healthier scalp. 

“It also increased scalp hydration, reduced transepidermal water loss, protected against UV-induced damage and boosted inflammatory inhibitors. Panelists with sensitive scalp reported that use of Fensebiome peptide improved scalp comfort, making them feel like their scalp was more hydrated, soothed and protected,” says Niemczycka.

Lubrizol developed sustainable AlgaPūr High Stability High Oleic algae oil from biotechnology, targeting skin and hair care applications.“In other words, Fensebiome peptide is an active ingredient that truly embodies the skinification of the scalp concept, with results showing perceivable benefits for both skin and scalp applications.”

Biotech-derived algae for hair care
Lubrizol also developed AlgaPūr High Stability High Oleic algae oil, a “stable and luxurious” liquid bio-based oil with oxidative stability and high sensory appeal for skin and hair care applications. 

“Biotechnology is now an emerging trend on social media, well positioned to become the star of sustainable beauty since it can provide naturally derived and science-backed beauty ingredients without harming biodiversity and ecosystems as well as minimizing straining on the ingredient chain supply,” says Niemczycka.

AlgaPūr High Stability High Oleic algae oil is obtained by fermentation of algae, originally sourced from the sap of a chestnut tree in Germany. During the controlled fermentation process using sugarcane as feedstock and without light, the algae efficiently convert simple sugars into triglyceride oils ensuring a traceable and reproducible oil profile.

“This process takes place far from fragile ecosystems, resulting in minimal environmental impact while ensuring rapid scalability and reproducibility,” says Niemczycka. “It performs well as an emollient in nourishing skin and hair care products in addition to being an alternative to mineral oils and having antioxidative properties.”

“Moreover, it has shown to protect and restore the fiber and improve the scalp’s condition. AlgaPūr HSHO algae oil could help nourish the hair follicle, which may lead to healthier hair. It also offers protection from reactive species, has an anti-aging effect, repairs from photodamage, provides immediate and long-lasting moisturization and improves the skin barrier function.”

Looking ahead at future NPD, Bandyopadhyay at Innova Market Insights believes skinification may be the “future interlinkage” between beauty-from-within trends and sensorial claims — like textures and “ultra-sensory” benefits — with skin care actives promoting wellness, aromatherapy, better sleep and other neurocosmetic benefits.

By Benjamin Ferrer