Vegan beauty: Biotech-based skin-identical collagen, AI-powered hair loss solutions and vibrant natural pigments

When compared to conventional additives on the market, plant-based beauty solutions are increasingly viable contenders against performance criteria. Addressing the growing demand for naturality and consumer resistance to animal cruelty, more vegan brands are leveraging new advances — including AI-powered systems and fermentation-based production methods — to boost their plant-powered claims with science. 

Personal Care Insights spotlights insights from suppliers Evonik and Givaudan, as well as vegan hair care brands Vegamour and Aveda, to explore the latest advances in this field.

Innova Market Insights data shows a 31% average annual growth in vegan claims for cosmetic launches between April 2019 and March 2024. Face foundations and illuminators are at the forefront of these vegan launches, while eye mascaras are rapidly gaining momentum.

Intersecting this trend, the market is seeing a resurgence in cruelty-free claims along with a rise in animal testing alternatives, such as artificial skin models. Innova Market Insights data indicates global cosmetic launches with cruelty-free claims witnessed a 17% CAGR between October 2018 and September 2023. Europe was the frontrunner, with one out of two cosmetic launches with a cruelty-free claim.

The market researcher adds that nearly half of the launches were for face/body cosmetics. There was also a 183% CAGR rise in ethical packaging claims in cruelty-free cosmetic launches in the same time frame. The fast-growing positionings in cruelty-free launches include “plant-based, sensitive skin and vegetarian.”

Vegan hair loss solutions

One category seeing an uptick in vegan formulations is hair loss solutions. In this space, plant-based hair care brand Vegamour is leveraging AI data analysis to pinpoint the right potent botanical actives that will noticeably boost performance.

Vegamour’s latest vegan innovation, the GRO+ Advanced System, was co-developed by a dermatologist and designed to address severe shedding and hair loss (Image credit: Vegamour).Vegamour’s latest vegan innovation, the GRO+ Advanced System, was co-developed by a dermatologist and designed to address severe shedding and hair loss. The GRO+ Advanced System fuses “cutting-edge technology and powerful plant-based actives.”

To formulate this new collection, Vegamour’s team utilized AI screening techniques to evaluate thousands of potential plant compounds, identifying the most potent hair-densifying ingredients. “This tech-forward approach propels the efficacy of natural hair loss remedies to unprecedented levels, setting a new standard in the industry,” details the company.

“The dermatologist team helped to design the clinical trials to test the formulas and reviewed the ingredients that went into the serum and shampoo. We were also closely involved in developing the dermaroller, including the needle length and density, to help optimize results from the serum and system,” says Vegamour chief dermatological advisor, Dr. Neera Nathan.

“The GRO+ Advanced System can be used as an adjunct to conventional medical hair loss therapies or can be an option for those who prefer to use a plant-based, over-the-counter approach. I frequently see patients who are dissatisfied with the currently available topical minoxidil options or who do not wish to take oral medications, and the GRO+ Advanced System is a nice option for those people.”

In other advances, Aveda unveiled its own vegan solution for thinning hair in a new collection, backed by two decades of scientific research and an eight-year collaboration with world expert authorities in skin and hair biology.

The brand recently unveiled Invati Ultra Advanced, a multi-step system featuring a new “triple-action” Follicle Vitality Complex. The more than 94% naturally derived vegan collection is said to fortify strands to “reduce hair loss by 77%” when using its four-step system, while “instantly thickening hair up to 11%” when combined with the company’s thickening foam. 

After screening more than 1,000 botanical actives, Aveda’s team of scientists selected three unique and complementary botanicals for its Follicle Vitality Complex. 

These include false daisy (Eclipta prostrata), an invigorating ingredient that amplifies cellular vitality and is known as the “king of hair” in the Ayurvedic tradition. Meanwhile, alpinia enriches the formulation with a “potent and powerful antioxidant” exclusive to Aveda, providing natural follicle protection from extrinsic stressors. Additionally, ginger supports the hair follicle and its ability to reduce cellular damage induced by stress and aging.

Biotech-based vegan collagen

For decades, collagen has been a sought-after ingredient in cosmetics and dermatology for its ability to improve firmness, elasticity and hydration in the skin. Traditionally, collagen comes from animal and marine sources. But consumers are increasingly looking for ethical and sustainable alternatives, while brands are concerned about supply security issues. 

Earlier this year, Evonik introduced its biotech-based Vecollage Fortify L, a new vegan collagen identical to collagen in the skin.Earlier this year, Evonik introduced its biotech-based Vecollage Fortify L, a new vegan collagen for the beauty and personal care market that claims to be identical to collagen in the skin.

The ingredient was developed in partnership with the company Modern Meadow, which specializes in fermentation-based protein development. It provides “dual benefits” to fortify collagen in the skin by preventing age-related degradation and stimulating the skin’s own collagen production.

Vecollage Fortify L is ideal for applications such as anti-aging and hydrating creams. The launch ties into Evonik’s target to scale a platform of non-animal and sustainable collagen consisting of several types of vegan collagen the company is developing with partners.

“The future of skin care is all about biotech-based collagen. Brand owners can now offer consumers sustainably sourced, skin-identical collagen. This true hero ingredient clearly shows how sustainability drives us and collaboration defines us,” says Yann d’Hervé, head of Evonik’s Care Solutions business line.

Vibrant vegan botanical pigments

Givaudan Active Beauty unveiled the [N.A.S.] Vibrant Collection of vegan active botanical extracts for use in hybrid make-up formulas. It consists of five powders with “potent skin benefits,” fusing make-up and skin care in line with the “Skinification” trend.

Givaudan Active Beauty unveiled the [N.A.S.] Vibrant collection of vegan active botanical extracts with skin benefits (Image credit: Givaudan Active Beauty).Givaudan’s 100% natural oil-dispersible powders deliver their biological efficacy in make-up “without compromising color performance or intensity.” Crafted through green fractionation, the [N.A.S.] Vibrant Collection comprises five bioactive compounds offering antioxidant properties, which include turmeric, jasmine, spirulina and radish root extracts. 

Givaudan’s specific process ensures the stability of the composition of the extracts and bioactive compounds, preserving their organoleptic properties and appearance.

“There is a growing need for ingredients specifically designed for hybrid make-up formulas — ingredients that can easily be incorporated into make-up,” comments Fabrice Lefevre, innovation and marketing director. 

“By focusing efforts into the sourcing and supply chain of natural ingredients, Givaudan Active Beauty has identified four natural raw materials known for their strong antioxidant potential that also offer proven benefits for the skin, while sustaining make-up performance.”

In other sector developments, The Body Shop announced it is the “world’s first” global beauty brand to achieve 100% vegan product formulations this year, across all ranges, including skin care, body care, hair care, makeup and fragrance.