In-cosmetics Global 2024: Ajinomoto presents plastic alternative beads for enhanced skin feel
15 May 2024 | Ajinomoto Specialty Chemicals
Dive into sustainable beauty with Cédric Pety de Thozée, sales and marketing manager at Ajinomoto Specialty Chemicals, as he discusses the Amihope SB series and the new Amiaura amino acid-based treatment kit. The plastic alternative beads are highlighted for their softness and enhanced skin feel for makeup and skin care applications.
Hello, my name is Cedric Petil.
I'm working at Ajinomoto in the Belgian subsidiary responsible for EMA network.
Thank you for the introduction.
I have some questions for you today.
Firstly, can you provide an overview of the Ami Hope SP series focusing on its sustainability features and highlight especially the new addition to the line and its unique features.
Behind AOB is creating replacement for the microplastic beads in the makeup industry.
Microplastics, as you know, are a big concern and have to be replaced in a lot of makeup formulations nowadays.
The issue with the natural beads, natural beads is that the feeling is absolutely not comparable unfortunately to the plastic alternative.
So the idea of my colleagues from development has been to coat these natural beads.
It can be silica.
It can be starch with one of all.
Famous ingredient being lory lysine.
So the interest of lorylyzine, lorylysine, it's an amino acid based ingredient, fully natural, so you have a fully natural beads put with a fully natural ingredient, and this is a very, very soft lore is known for its very, very soft touch, so you have.
The round particle and you have the soft feeling, so you are compensating the lack of good feeling you could have for this material before.
Yeah, do you have something to add?
The SB 103, so the new bead, is in fact in addition to the series.
We have developed different coating techniques, and this one is improving the skin feel, is improving also the SPF, so it has a lot of advantages.
Yeah, and so what are the specific benefits of sustainable beads in Ami Hope SB series compared to the traditional alternative?
So as I mentioned.
The main benefit will be soft focus and feeling.
So first, the main benefit compared to the natural meat.
So if you take starch, if you can take silica, the feeling is not comparable to.
The plastic alternatives.
If you want to replace that, you have to have something that's softer, and that's why I'm your LL, so the coating will provide this.
So that's the main feeling.
And then because it's a round shaped particle, you have a blurring effect.
The losing, in fact, it's present as flat crystals which cannot all the time give this rolling field you need in some formulation, OK.
And moving on to another product, can you introduce the new Ami Aura, amino acid-based treatment kit, and share the inspiration behind the development?
That's a really cool new product.
It's the first kit that we are launching, so based on two different.
Ingredients or two different products we have to mix together and the idea is that again we want to have a sustainable solution for makeup producer and we noticed that a lot of Pigment nowadays treated with silicon.
This has some, it's not natural, so it has some benefits sometimes, but it's not natural and we have, we know on the market there are some, a few.
Producer is able to make amino acid coating on some pigments, but it's really a minority.
So we wanted to provide this technology affordable and available to anyone and so it's a kit that allows people to treat the pigment in their factory, so it's a little bit do it at home version of what is commercially available.
It will, we hope, improve the spread and the penetration of this amino acid treatment of the pigment.
And lastly, what are the unique properties of amiora and how does it address specific skincare concerns or needs?
OK, so because it's an amino acid-based coating, it will be very skin friendly.
So that's the benefit of the natural orientation of Ajinomoto and all our ingredients.
So we will have a natural coating which is good for skin and we have also for the pigment, a good adhesion property to the skin.
So that's one.
Then we have also functional benefits in emulsion.
Pigments that are coated with silicon are not always soluble in every type of oil you would like to, unfortunately.
We have demonstrated that thanks to this Amiro I'm quoting, we have now pigments that are much more soluble in a lot of different oil types and to a better extent than the silicon treated pigments.
Thank you so much for your time here today and have a great show ahead.
Thank you very much for having me.















