Givaudan unveils Spherulite HA Ultimate for lip care with microscopic encapsulation tech

12 Jul 2022 --- Givaudan Active Beauty is introducing the Spherulite HA Ultimate, a long-lasting anti-aging active ingredient that uses vectorization technology to deliver high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid (HA) deeper into the skin layers. The company also incorporated the ingredient to create the HA lip bomb.

“The microscopic encapsulation takes Givaudan’s technology one step further, whereby the encapsulated active ingredient is not visible – it is smaller than a micron,” Marina Egorova, visuals and vectorization category manager at Givaudan Active Beauty, tells PersonalCareInsights.

The HA lip bomb treatment is a blend of Spherulite HA Ultimate, CristalHyal and PrimalHyal 300, three Active Beauty hyaluronic acids derived from green chemistry.

Formulated with microencapsulation technology, Spherulite HA Ultimate, is suitable for lip care and according to the company, offers notable immediate and long-term plumping benefits.

The Spherulite HA Ultimate ingredient may deliver HMW and HA to deeper skin layers with vectorization technology.“These multilamellar liposome-like beads’ (Spherulite) work by delivering active molecules at the right place for an enhanced cosmetic activity or decreased side effects such as the irritating effect of some molecules,” continues Egorova.

“Spherulite can deeply penetrate the skin or cling to the skin or hair, creating a long-lasting release effect, continually emitting beneficial moisturizing or hydrating properties.”

Due to its critical role in maintaining skin hydration and plumpness, HA is frequently used in well-aging products. Although the substance is commonly used in clinical settings as a filler for fine lines and wrinkles, most consumers are still wary of injections.

An environmentally sustainable solution?
According to Givaudan Active Beauty, Spherulite HA Ultimate will impact the industry by “providing a sustainable solution for well-aging allowing HMW HA to deeper skin layers thanks to vectorization technology.”

“The new chassis of the Spherulite HA Ultimate demonstrates high naturality, contains upcycled natural vitamin E, extracted from waste fatty acids which are a by-product from food-grade sunflower oil refining and no preservatives,” details Egorova.

The Spherulite HA Ultimate is suitable for lip care and contains upcycled vitamin E (Credit: Givaudan Active Beauty).“Additionally, the active ingredient is 100% natural content origin.”

In considering the Spherulite HA Ultimate effectiveness, Givaudan Active Beauty highlights that the Raman spectroscopy measurements show penetration in the stratum corneum and the epidermis up to 50 micrometers.

Additionally, the ingredient has undergone clinical testing on female subjects, showing considerable improvements in the plumping effect, up to 12.4% after 30 minutes and 21.4% on day 28.

Microencapsulation technology
The HA lip bomb treatment also has virgin apricot oil to hydrate and enhance the texture and definition of the lips.

“The advanced microencapsulation technology of Spherulite allows vectorization of HMW HA in the multilamellar and multi-layered crystalline microcapsules,” says Egorova.

“The non-ionic nature of the capsule enables its better penetration into upper layers of the skin where the pure HA is slowly released at the target activity site for a long-lasting effect. “

“HMW HA is no longer only dedicated to skincare but can now be also to lip care – a vulnerable skin surface. Today, skincare treatment can provide a noticeable effect but only on the skin surface. Microencapsulation allows for short and long-term effects on the skin surface and deeper layers.”

In Givaudan’s other moves, the company introduced Neoporyl, a biotech ingredient that may reduce large pores. Also, Givaudan released Centella CAST, a molecule derived from green fractionation that restores post-pregnancy skin elasticity and firmness.

By Nicole Kerr