Primient talks Zemea Propanediol powering color hair care collection

Primient’s Color Care Collection harnesses the power of Zemea Propanediol, a bio-based glycol, for enhanced hair care formulations. Products in the range have been designed to deepen and deposit color, boost gloss and shine, combat dryness and damage, and promote scalp health with natural, color-protecting, and moisturizing ingredients.

The release comes as consumers are demanding more from hair care, seeking multifunctional products that offer UV protection, preserve color, and support overall hair health.

At NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2026 last month, Primient unveiled its eco-friendly color hair care collection. The collection builds on Zemea Propanediol and Sensient Arianor’s previous water-soluble basic cationic dyes, developing its efficacious, safe, and cruelty-free offerings. 

Personal Care Insights takes a deeper dive into the collection and its ingredients, as well as the increasing demand for eco-conscious color solutions. We also explore how the company is leveraging Zemea Propanediol to deliver high-performing, safe, and sustainable hair color care solutions for professional and consumer markets.

Products in the Color Care Collection 

Included in the range is a Purest Base Clarifying Shampoo formulated with Zemea Propanediol and Glypure 70 Glycolic Acid. The shampoo is designed to moisturize the scalp and expand the hair cuticle for better color deposition. Zemea Propanediol also serves as a carrier for Glypure 70 Glycolic Acid and ultimately for hair dyes, supporting scalp health by removing build-up, restoring moisture balance, and improving circulation.

The Chroma-Cashmere Deposit Shampoo is specifically formulated for damaged or dyed hair due to its low pH. It helps seal the hair cuticle and retain moisture while a non-ionic surfactant gently cleanses without stripping color.

The Silk Infusing Zemea color conditioner for textured hair uses Zemea Propanediol as a plasticizer for the resin and to provide moisturization to hair and scalp. Other key ingredients include 5% glycolic acid (Glypure 70), which offers moisturization, heat protection, manageability, and lubricity. It also contains a natural quat-free emulsifier/conditioner (AminoSensyl HC) to weightlessly strengthen hair, and a starch polymer (Texturlux Rheo) to impart a soft texture while stabilizing the formulation. 

Meanwhile, the Satin Strands Stay In Treatment is a leave-in conditioner for textured hair that combines Zemea Propanediol, Glypure 70, AminoSensyl HC, and Texturlux Rheo for soft, healthy, and moisturized hair.

Vervain Vitality Scalp Serum provides triple-action moisturization while improving scalp circulation and nourishing hair follicles, and is specifically designed for those with textured hair.

The Oil-Free Scalp Oil treatment is used pre-shampoo to hydrate and restore moisture balance for dry scalps with Zemea’s triple hydration.

The Purest Base Clarifying Shampoo is formulated with Zemea Propanediol and Glypure 70 Glycolic Acid.Finally, the Clear Scalp Spray showcases how Zemea Propanediol works with Glypure to provide immediate and sustained moisturization in a completely oil-free platform.

We sit down with Sean Gahan, global technical services manager, and Marjorie Morris, global marketing manager, to find out more about the development of the products and demand from the industry for more specialized hair care solutions. 

What were the motivations for expanding your hair color portfolio using Zemea Propanediol?
Gahan: We had previously conducted technical studies for understanding the value propositions and benefits of adding Zemea Propanediol to hair care products, including shampoo, conditioner, conditioning shampoo, and styling gel. Although we were aware that companies were utilizing Zemea Propanediol in hair color products for both permanent and semi-permanent, we did not have any of our own data to share with customers inquiring about the use of Zemea Propanediol in hair coloring systems. 

Once this was done, we created a portfolio of hair coloring maintenance products designed to both prepare the hair for a hair color treatment and, once treated, maintain and enhance the longevity of the hair color treatment.

How does Zemea Propanediol enhance color deposition, shine, and scalp health compared with traditional solvent systems?
Gahan: Zemea Propanediol outperforms traditional solvent systems like propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol) by acting as a highly efficient, non-irritating polar solvent that improves dye partitioning while simultaneously conditioning the hair fiber and preserving the scalp microbiome. 

Because of Zemea Propanediol’s specific Hansen solubility parameters — a system used to predict how well a solvent will dissolve a particular material — and its linear structure, 1,3-propanediol (PDO) functions as an exceptional carrier for polar actives, including water-soluble dyes. It subtly swells the hair fiber, facilitating deeper dye penetration into the cuticle/cortex boundary without the severe structural disruption caused by ammonia or aggressive developer chemicals. 

In comparative testing, formulations utilizing 3% Zemea Propanediol demonstrate superior color evenness, deeper saturation, and improved wash fastness compared to control formulas using traditional propylene glycol. It optimizes the partition coefficient, driving the dye out of the aqueous phase and into the keratinous fiber more effectively.

Shine is a direct optical function of cuticle alignment and surface smoothness. Zemea acts as a superior humectant and emollient, binding moisture into the hair shaft without the characteristic tackiness of glycerin. This sustained moisture retention plasticizes the hair fiber, helping the individual cuticle scales lie flat. A flattened, well-aligned cuticle reflects light specularly, which translates to high shine. Additionally, it reduces static charge, offering a cleaner feel and significantly better wet and dry combability than both propylene glycol and butylene glycol.

The structural difference between 1,3-PDO and 1,2-PDO dictates their interaction with the stratum corneum and the scalp’s resident flora. Zemea is also MyMicrobiome certified, confirming it maintains the scalp’s commensal bacteria balance rather than indiscriminately stripping it.

It boosts the efficacy of antimicrobial actives and preservatives by lowering the water activity, or measure of free and unbound water, of the system. This allows the preservative to work more efficiently and may allow for a reduction in the overall preservative load of the formulation, further minimizing the potential for scalp irritation. 

How does Zemea Propanediol align with Primient’s commitment to cruelty-free, safe, and sustainable formulations?
Gahan: Zemea Propanediol is highly characterized and has an established safety profile derived from in vitro testing and historical human patch tests. Plant-based Zemea Propanediol has not been tested on animals. Its comprehensive safety record allows brands to formulate with confidence while maintaining Leaping Bunny or PETA cruelty-free certifications.

Furthermore, Zemea Propanediol is ammonia-free. Since Zemea acts as a highly efficient polar solvent, it subtly swells the keratin fiber to facilitate dye partitioning into the cortex without the harsh pH shift, allowing formulators to eliminate ammonia while still achieving deep, long-lasting color deposition.

The manufacturing process for Zemea Propanediol also fundamentally shifts the supply chain away from fossil fuels, addressing the core of sustainable chemistry. It is produced through the fermentation of plant sugars, specifically industrial corn glucose, rather than being synthesized from petroleum derivatives, and is therefore 100% bio-based feedstock. It also boasts a reduced carbon footprint. The proprietary fermentation process generates significantly fewer greenhouse gas emissions (84%) and consumes 70% less energy from cradle to gate compared to the production of petroleum-based propylene glycol.

What were the formulation challenges in creating a system that works for both daily use and long-lasting color retention?
Gahan: The main challenge for creating a robust hair color system that has a balance of hair conditioning properties and long-lasting color retention and longevity lies in the hair color base. We designed a Cationic Liquid Crystalline Lamellar Gel Network (LGN) emulsified base that is robust, offering stability and an excellent feel on the hair. This LGN consists of the following characteristics: presence of positively charged surfactants; exhibits properties of both liquids and solids; two-layered sheets of surfactant and fatty alcohol molecules; and a 3D structure that provides a stable gel.Primient’s Color Care Collection is designed to preserve color vibrancy, support hair health, and meet the demands of today’s conscious consumer.

The second challenge came with designing a pre-shampoo for preparing the hair for coloring. The objective was to create a shampoo that provided favorable electrostatics for the cationic hair dyes to adhere to the hair. This meant having a pH of nine to make hair more electronegative, as well as a high load of Zemea Propanediol to prepare the hair for coloring treatments, and featuring a nonionic glucoside surfactant for maximum cleansing and minimizing irritation.

What upcoming trends or innovations are you exploring for hair color systems using Zemea propanediol?
Morris: We are currently assessing market adoption and customer feedback for our semi- permanent hair color and maintenance portfolio before expanding into additional hair color system development projects. 

Looking ahead, we expect emerging consumer trends and evolving customer needs to create new opportunities for innovation where Zemea Propanediol can provide differentiated value, particularly in the professional hair care segment. Its ability to support high-performing formulations while contributing to improved health and safety profiles for both salon professionals and their clients positions Zemea Propanediol as a compelling ingredient for the future of hair color technology.