ApiotiX discusses propolis extract as a safe, effective retinol alternative for anti-aging

15 Jul 2024 --- In the search for effective and safe anti-aging skin care, Apiotix Technologies, a biotech spin-off company from Hedera, presents phenolic acids polymer extract (PAPE) from propolis. 

A recent paper in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology shows PAPE as a safer alternative to retinol without the negative side effects. Personal Care Insights speaks to Dr. Božo Radić, the company’s COO.

What are the mechanisms by which the PAPE extract modulates works?
Radić: PAPE is changing different biomarkers involved in skin inflammation and remodeling. Biomarkers are proteins or molecules that indicate certain conditions or processes in the body, such as inflammation or tissue repair. By influencing these markers, PAPE provides significant benefits for the skin.

How PAPE works by changing these markers:

Reduces inflammation:

• MCP-1 (Monocyte Chemoattractant Protein-1): PAPE lowers levels of MCP-1, a protein that attracts immune cells to inflammation sites. By reducing MCP-1, PAPE helps to decrease skin inflammation.
• VCAM-1 (Vascular Cell Adhesion Molecule-1): PAPE reduces VCAM-1, a molecule that helps immune cells stick to blood vessel walls and migrate to inflamed areas, thus reducing inflammation.
• ICAM-1 (Intracellular Cell Adhesion Molecule-1): This molecule aids immune cells in adhering to and moving through blood vessels. PAPE decreases ICAM-1 levels, calming inflamed skin.
• IL-8 (Interleukin-8): PAPE lowers IL-8 levels, a protein that attracts immune cells and promotes inflammation, thereby reducing redness and swelling.

Improves skin structure:

• Collagen III: PAPE increases Collagen III, a type of collagen that provides structure and elasticity to the skin, helping to keep skin firm and smooth.
• MMP-1 (Matrix Metalloproteinase-1): PAPE reduces MMP-1, an enzyme that breaks down collagen, preventing wrinkles and sagging by preserving collagen and skin structure.
• SRB (Sulforhodamine B Staining) activity: PAPE boosts SRB activity, which measures cell proliferation and viability. Higher SRB activity indicates healthier and more abundant skin cells, promoting overall skin health.

Supports tissue repair:

• TIMP-1 (Tissue Inhibitors of Metalloproteinases) and TIMP-2: PAPE reduces the activity of TIMP-1 and TIMP-2, proteins that inhibit enzymes breaking down tissue. This aids in tissue repair and regeneration.

PAPE is said to reduce inflammation, improve skin structure, support tissue repair and promote skin cell growth.Promotes skin cell growth:

• Keratinocytes: PAPE encourages the growth of keratinocytes, the primary cells in the outer layer of the skin. This is essential for skin regeneration and healing, making the skin look fresh and revitalized.

PAPE is a skin care ingredient that effectively reduces inflammation, supports tissue repair and promotes healthy skin cell growth.

How does the safety profile of PAPE compare to traditional retinol?
Radić: PAPE’s safety profile is favorable compared to traditional retinol, particularly concerning potential skin irritation or sensitivity.

Traditional retinol is well-known for its effective anti-aging properties. However, it often comes with side effects such as skin irritation, redness, peeling and dryness. When used around the eyes, retinol can also cause ocular discomfort and dry eyes. Retinoids can lead to significant irritation, making them unsuitable for individuals with sensitive skin.

In contrast, studies have shown that PAPE is gentle on the skin with no reported negative side effects. It is suitable for both sensitive and non-sensitive skin types, making it a tolerable and gentle anti-aging solution. Clinical trials indicated that participants did not show skin alterations or adverse reactions directly associated with the use of PAPE-enriched products for 28 to 56 days.

After 28 days of continuous use of the product, a dermatologist evaluated the skin condition of the participants. This assessment included a detailed examination of any skin alterations and determining whether these were related to the product use. The results showed that 3% of the participants experienced desquamation and another 3% had redness. However, the dermatologist determined that these reactions were not caused by the product. Moreover, no participants were excluded from the study due to these minor reactions, nor did any participant withdraw from the study because of them. No participants reported dryness, acne-prone skin, oedema, vesicles or other adverse reactions. This comprehensive assessment indicates that PAPE has a very low incidence of minor adverse reactions.

PAPE-based products provide a pleasant sensory experience, effective moisturization and anti-aging benefits.In conclusion, PAPE demonstrates a superior safety profile compared to traditional retinol. It offers effective anti-aging benefits while minimizing the risk of skin irritation and sensitivity.

What feedback did you receive regarding the sensory experience of using PAPE-based products?
Radić: The subjective evaluation of the PAPE-based products by the panelists provided valuable insights into their sensory experience and satisfaction levels after 28 days of continuous use.

• General satisfaction: Ninety percent of the panelists were satisfied with the product’s overall efficacy and extensibility on the skin.
• Skin moisturization and firmness: Ninety percent of the panelists felt their skin was more moisturized after using the product and 85% felt their skin was firmer.
• Additional Effects: Eighty-five percent of the panelists felt an anti-aging effect after using the product. Ninety percent of the panelists felt their skin was more luminous and radiant. Eighty-five percent of the panelists expressed their intention to continue using the product.
• Purchase Intention: Eighty-five percent of the panelists indicated they would buy it. 
• Undesirable Symptoms: No panelist reported any undesirable symptoms after using PAPE 1.5% or 3.%.

Overall, the high satisfaction rates and positive feedback indicate that PAPE-based products provide a pleasant sensory experience, effective moisturization and anti-aging benefits, making them well-received by users.

What are the next steps for ApiotiX Technologies in terms of further research or commercialization of PAPE?
Radić: Currently, the primary focus of ApiotiX Technologies is on fostering industrial collaborations to accelerate the development and commercialization of PAPE-based skin care products. PAPE’s favorable safety profile and significant anti-aging efficacy position it well for extensive use in the cosmetic industry. ApiotiX Technologies is actively negotiating partnerships with industry leaders to bring these innovative solutions to the market more efficiently.

In addition, the company plans to continue exploring PAPE’s bioactive properties through further in vitro and clinical studies. These studies will investigate PAPE’s potential in various dermatological applications and indications, aiming to expand its use in different skin care formulations.

These efforts aim to establish PAPE as one of the leading ingredients in the skin care market, leveraging its natural and effective properties to meet the growing demand for high-performance, science-proven skin care solutions.

By Venya Patel