BASF unveils Safe-by-Design concept and ingredient for future-proof fragrance

BASF has debuted its Safe-by-Design concept that develops “future-proof” fragrance ingredients from inception and released Micadelva, a non-allergenic citrus fragrance. The concept is said to offer a fragrance portfolio that is adapted to a changing regulatory environment.

Micadelva is the third addition to BASF’s Future-Proof-Palette, which aims to provide high- performing ingredients with forward-looking regulatory compliance and diligent safety standards.

The Safe-by-Design concept arrives as personal care industry players consistently need to plan for the evolving regulatory environment. Fragrances, along with all cosmetics, are under increased regulatory and public scrutiny, with higher expectations for human and environmental safety. 

“With Micadelva and our Safe-by-Design innovations, we are setting the direction for next-generation fragrance ingredients,” says Steffen Götz, senior VP of Aroma Ingredients at BASF.

Sustainable citrus scent

Micadelva is designed to be non-allergenic and biodegradable.

Micadelva, a citrus alternative to orange terpenes, is a novel orange platform offering for perfumers and the latest edition of BASF’s Future-Proof-Palette. It provides agrumic citrus scents that last longer than traditional citrus ingredients through reformulation.

Designed by employing Safe-by-Design principles derived from the EU Commission’s Safe and Sustainable by Design framework, Micadelva supports customers’ sustainability ambitions.

It contains 80% renewable carbon, is readily biodegradable, and is currently estimated to produce a low product carbon footprint in the A++ range.

“The compelling sustainability profile contributes to the green transformation of our customers. This enables our customers to innovate with confidence while maintaining creative performance in an evolving market and regulatory environment,” says Götz.

Aligned with the compliance ambitions of the Future-Proof-Palette, Micadelva aims to elevate the applicability of citrus design in regulatory frameworks. The ingredient is said to deliver a clean, fresh orange-peel profile with a “subtle metallic edge” and floral notes.

“Micadelva and the expansion of our Future-Proof-Palette with Safe-by-Design innovations demonstrate BASF’s strong scientific expertise in developing innovative aroma ingredients with differentiated olfactive and functional performance,” adds Felix Gard, head of specialty Aroma Ingredients at BASF.

Assuring Safe-by-Design

BASF introduced a Safe-by-Design concept for fragrance ingredients.

Alongside Micadelva, the Future-Proof-Palette includes Dihydrorosan, which hosts a floral and green olfactory profile; and Velberry, with a fruity and gourmand scent.

BASF’s ingredients are said to illustrate the effectiveness of the Safe-by-Design strategy by supporting the development of molecules that offer performance and high safety standards.

The chemical manufacturing company emphasizes its expansive and early-on assessments of mutagenicity, endocrine activity, persistence, and other potential hazards of ingredient candidates. In doing so, it aims to mitigate the development of ingredient profiles that may be banned or restricted with future regulatory developments.

Personal care regulatory moves

In a landmark regulatory development last week, EU lawmakers agreed on a faster phase-out timeline for cosmetics containing carcinogenic, mutagenic, and reprotoxic substances (CMR) as part of the Omnibus VI deal.

After months of deliberation, the European Council and European Parliament reached a provisional interinstitutional agreement on the Omnibus VI package, a legal overhaul of cosmetic regulations in Europe. The council and parliament are pushing to accelerate the elimination of cosmetics containing CMR substances.

Reflecting the need for more personal care industry guardrails, in May, an EU Safety Gate report found that cosmetics were the most frequently reported dangerous products in the EU last year. Almost eight in 10 alerts for cosmetics related to the presence of butylphenyl methylpropional, a banned synthetic fragrance that can have harmful effects on the reproductive system and cause skin irritation.

In environmental pushes, in February, thirty-six not-for-profit organizations called on EU lawmakers to proactively enforce REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals) to keep their promise of supplying safe products.

The environmental NGOs said that an ambitious implementation, enforcement, and modernization of the EU chemicals framework is urgently needed. The group asserted that current enforcement against dangerous chemicals in consumer products is insufficient and emphasized the current struggle with PFAS pollution.