Skin in the game: CTIBiotech pioneers “monumental leap” for cosmetics testing

CTIBiotech (cell, tissue, and innovation) has been showcasing its computer-connected, lab-grown, human bioprinted skin technology at the IFSCC 2025 congress in Cannes, France. The technology is the “first of its kind” and features a functional sensory nervous system resembling human skin.  

The primary purpose of lab-grown skin is to reduce reliance on animal testing while enhancing the accuracy and speed of cosmetics and fragrance testing processes.  

“CTIBiotech’s 3D bioprinting of skin is a process of manufacturing artificial human skin models in the laboratory. Our research team collects human skin samples, with informed ethical consent of patients, after surgery,” Dr. Nico Forraz, CEO at CTIBiotech, tells Personal Care Insights. 

“Rather than discarding the skin samples in hospitals, the skin is transported to our laboratory where it is dissociated. This means that we use special enzymes and mechanical techniques to pull apart all the cells that form the skin. Each cell type is then sorted and amplified. For example, there are one million keratinocytes (forming the epidermis), and we can produce as many as one billion cells.”

The company was awarded “Cosmetic Scientist” at the congress for its tech innovation.

“Our computer-connected bioprinted skin represents a monumental leap forward, offering a more ethical, efficient, and predictive platform for the cosmetics industry. We believe this technology will accelerate the development of safer and more effective products and inspire a new generation of scientific inquiry into human biology,” says Colin McGuckin, president and chief scientific officer of CTIBiotech.

The biotech company says the tool is efficient, ethical, and powerful, speeding up innovation while ensuring safety in the cosmetic industry. 

Creating artificial skin

CTIBiotech’s technology is built on a decade of R&D and offers a 3D biofabrication method that enables the industrialization of human tissue bioassay production.

The technology uses “bio-inks” composed of living human cells, such as neurons derived from stem cells.Forraz explains that all skin cell types are amplified, characterized, and then cryopreserved in a “state-of-the-art” biobank for later use.

“We then thaw the cells at a later date for the production of artificial human skin. It is a real skin biologically, but the skin is biofabricated by additive manufacturing called bioextrusion or bioprinting. It works by using a bioprinter to precisely position skin cells (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) and other types of human cells to recreate the architecture and functions of real skin.”

Forraz summarized the technology’s process and says it uses “bio-inks” composed of living human cells, such as neurons derived from stem cells (induced pluripotent stem cells or iPS cells).

“To assemble the skin, we use biological inks which contain biocompatible materials that act as scaffolds to the different skin cell types, which rapidly secrete the components of the skin matrix such as collagens, elastin, and hyaluronic acid.”

The technology then uses layer-by-layer bioprinting, depositing these cells in successive layers to build skin tissue, including the epidermis and dermis.

“The major innovation of CTIBiotech’s technology is the integration of a sensory nervous system and an immune system. This allows the skin model to react more faithfully to stimuli, such as exposure to a chemical agent,” says Forraz. 

“The bio-printed skin model is then connected to a Microelectrode Array reading system. This system records neural signals and cellular responses in real time. The collected data is transmitted to a computer for instant analysis. This makes it possible to study the impact of contaminants and quickly validate the effectiveness of decontamination solutions.”

An artificial nervous system

The artificial sensory nervous system has neural cells of human origin, and therefore resembles a person’s skin. 

“We use a special production protocol called differentiation. The cells are derived from reprogrammed adult stem cells named iPS sourced by the biotech company AXOL Bioscience,” says Forraz. 

The artificial sensory nervous system has neural cells of human origin, and therefore resembles a person’s skin.The skin is made of real primary human cells, depending on the level of complexity required. 

“In our tests, [the artificial skin] reacted to sensory reactions specific to the human body.”

He further explains that the live neurons mature inside the 3D bioprinted skin model and, like in real skin, migrate from the bottom part of the skin (hypodermis) to the top of the model (epidermis). There, they can interact with other skin cells and react to topical stimuli applied to the skin.

Forraz adds that these models can be made for different genders, phototypes, and age groups. Limitations include the complexity and quality of the 3D skin systems, which require more production to reduce production costs. Another limitation is mimicking wrinkle formation with such systems.

Future of cosmetic research?

CTIBiotech argues the technology has the potential to transform cosmetic and biomedical research.

For cosmetics, it will allow for faster product development from its instantaneous feedback mechanism, and decrease the development cycles for fragrance and cosmetics. This will speed up the time for formulators to optimize and create formulations.

Meanwhile, it will also prove the product’s safety and efficacy, as the technology provides accurate predictions of skin reactions. The company says brands using the technology can develop safer and gentler products while reducing users’ adverse reactions. 

Long-term, it is also cost-efficient. “While initial investment in such technology may be high, the long-term efficiency gains, reduced need for extensive in vivo studies, and faster time-to-market can lead to significant cost savings,” says the company. 

CTIBiotech argues the technology has the potential to transform cosmetic and biomedical research.The technology also offers advanced ingredient screening for novel cosmetic ingredients, and it can identify potentially harmful and beneficial ingredients early on. 

The company says the sensory nervous system is crucial for evaluating fragrance. It assesses how the fragrance interacts with the skin and produces a perceived scent profile over time and potential irritation. 

CTIBiotech expresses that the award it received for its technology underscores its commitment to “pushing the boundaries of what is possible” in biotechnology. 

“It means faster time to market for novel products, reduced development costs, and ultimately, better and safer products for consumers worldwide. This is not just a scientific victory, it’s a victory for ethical research and advanced product innovation,” says Forrah.

Tech for ethics

The technology is a part of new approach methodologies (NAM), which aims to end animal testing. Cruelty-free beauty has recently seen a surge, especially in Europe, as consumers demand ethical personal care.

NAMs have previously been highlighted for their ethical and scientifically progressive approach to toxicity testing, and the industry has increasingly incorporated their use.

A recent study demonstrated how human organ-on-a-chip technologies have the potential to replace animal testing in cosmetics. The research showed how personal care products can be evaluated for toxicity more ethically, with faster results compared to traditional cosmetics testing. The organ-on-a-chip technology creates and sustains a 3D cell environment that mimics the activities of a human organ, such as the skin.

Earlier this year, Korean scientists developed an AI electronic nose that can smell and distinguish scents like a human nose. The device showed 95% accuracy when identifying nine fragrances commonly used in cosmetics and perfumes. It also detected the types of smells and concentrations of each scent.