Boots and No7 get multi-million funding for melanin-centered skin care research

05 Dec 2023 --- Boots, No7 Beauty and the University of Manchester, UK (UoM) secure funding to “redress the historical imbalance in the existing body of skin research,” which previously focused on lighter skin tones, with darker skin tones underrepresented or “overlooked completely.”

Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council (BBSRC) is funding the multi-million-pound research partnership, dubbed Project Spectrum. It aims to support research advancing the understanding of skin health while ensuring inclusivity.

Dr. Mike Bell, head of Science Research at Boots and No7 Beauty Company, tells Personal Care Insights, “The ambitious research project will explore how skin structure, function and response to sunlight is influenced by melanin, the pigment determining skin color, with the goal of delivering effective skin care solutions that are fit for purpose and address the needs of all people, setting a new standard for inclusivity.”

“We are very grateful to the BBSRC for supporting this exciting research program. With our world-leading scientific partners at The University of Manchester, we will develop a much better understanding of the similarities and differences in skin across the pigmentary spectrum, allowing for more inclusive product design and, ultimately, more effective solutions for everyone.”

Holistic skin advancements
UoM says the Prosperity Partnerships funding is an “exciting evolution of the collaboration,” uniting national and international experts in skin biology, photobiology and skin gerontology.

UoM spotlights the importance of inclusivity in skin care research.“The funding will support the advancement of research initiatives by uniting experts in skin biology, photobiology, and skin gerontology on both national and international fronts. The funding will further contribute to laboratory activities, data analysis, and the formulation of skin care solutions derived from the ongoing research,” says Bell.

Project Spectrum builds on a 15-year research collaboration between Boots, No7 Beauty Company and UoM that has made advances in the science of skin structural remodeling linked to environmental and age-related damage.

The partnership produced over 100 scientific publications and enabled new skin care solutions for skin health and aging to reach UK consumers — such as No7’s “super peptide” blend to bio-hack the skin’s natural repair process, signaling the renewal of over 50 critical proteins in skin cells.

“The UoM’s Centre for Dermatology Research boasts a track record in fundamental skin research. Our longstanding partnership with Boots and No7 Beauty Company has allowed us to not only delve into the intricacies of skin science but also deliver tangible benefits to consumers through clinical translational research,” explains Langton.

UoM believes the collaborative effort is “poised to redefine the future of skin health research, pushing boundaries and paving the way for a more inclusive and equitable approach to skin care.”

“We recognize that there is a clear need for more inclusivity in skin health research and for greater understanding of the similarities and differences in skin across the pigmentary spectrum. The intention is that this research will allow for more inclusive product design and ultimately more effective solutions for everyone,” concludes Ball.

Inclusivity in cosmetics
The personal care industry has been highlighting the importance of inclusivity more frequently in recent years. A push from consumers has forced brands to confront age-old biases against people of color in the cosmetic industry.The public pushes for a more inclusive cosmetics industry.

For example, ELF recently entered the digital space with its cosmetic experience in Roblox called ELF Up! According to Kory Marchisotto, CMO at ELF Beauty: “It’s part of our journey to disrupt norms, shape culture and connect communities through positivity, inclusivity and accessibility.”

Amid fast-paced tech advancements, studies show AI can potentially regurgitate biases. Recent research by Haut.AI and Novigo revealed the inherent limitations of this new digital transformation, addressing biases in the cosmetic skin care industry and beauty tech applications.

AI and inclusivity intersected with the SeeMe Index: AI for Inclusive Marketing Decisions — an AI-based platform that measures and benchmarks brands’ consumer-facing inclusivity efforts. The AI index identifies makeup brands’ multi-year efforts to elevate and support Black and LGBTQIA+ communities across the gender spectrum via ads, products and charitable commitments. MAC Cosmetics was ranked first place with a score of 256.7.

By Sabine Waldeck

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