Bioactive skin care: Reviewing peptides, Ayurvedic herbs and Polynesian traditional medicine

05 Dec 2023 --- Derived from diverse sources, bioactive peptides provide many benefits. In this Special Report, Personal Care Insights reviews these peptide sources and looks at two timeless traditions from India and Polynesia that bridge natural medicine, health and skin care in pursuit of radiant and rejuvenated skin. We also spotlight RejuveNAD from Mibelle Biochemistry, its latest longevity molecule for skin care.

Multifaceted treasure troves
According to a research review in MDPI, bioactive peptides from plants such as rice bran, soy and wheat are taking center stage thanks to their antioxidant and anti-aging prowess. Recent studies indicate their potential to enhance skin health, providing beauty enthusiasts with a natural and effective solution.

“Common antimicrobial peptides comprise thionins, defensins, 2S albumin-like proteins, cyclotides and lipid transfer proteins, of which thionins are the first identified to play a significant role in protecting plants against invading bacteria,” detail the authors.

Moreover, milk proteins, eggs and meat sources offer reservoirs of bioactive peptides. From buffalo, goat and donkey milk proteins’ antioxidant potency to the nutrient-rich peptides in duck egg white protein, the animal kingdom offers diverse ingredients.

Beneath the waves, marine environments harbor peptides with unmatched nutritional and cosmetic value. The review spotlights algae and marine fungi, such as Porphyra dioica, Aspergillus and Poecillastra species, yielding peptides boasting antioxidant, antimicrobial and cytotoxic activities. 

Edible insects like Schistocerca gregaria and Alphitobius diaperinus are also in he limelight as new sources of peptides. Their bioactive peptides show antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antihypertensive activities, presenting an avenue for cosmetic supplement formulations.

Classification of bioactive peptides based on cosmetic properties (Image credit: MDPI research review).While the advantages of peptide-based products are evident, certain challenges persist. The authors suggest production conditions, structural stability and economic concerns require careful consideration. Peptide delivery to the target, hydrophobicity and solubility issues require innovative solutions to propel the industry forward.

Ayurveda: Marrying tradition with modern cosmetology
According to a study in the International Journal of Life science and Pharma Research, focus on herbal cosmetics stems from rising interest in active bio-ingredients, nutraceuticals and pharmaceuticals. 

Ayurveda, Siddha, Unani, and Tibetan systems of medicine have long documented the use of plants, offering a historical roadmap for identifying phytochemicals beneficial for skin and body care. “Gotu kola, silk cotton tree, costus and rose petal are the most widely used,” write the authors.

The review highlights the importance of medicinal herbs in enhancing skin and hair aesthetics. Each brings unique benefits, from antioxidant-rich coconut oil to soothing aloe vera. 

The review spotlights Indian extracts for herbal skin care: Tulsi or holy basil, ghritkumar (aloe vera), multanimitti (Fuller’s Earth) clay, raktachandan, Chandan and vetiver and haldi (turmeric).

The association between Ayurveda and cosmeceuticals gains prominence, with Ayurvedic herbs recognized for their anti-aging properties and contributions to overall skin health. 

The Varnya herbs, including sandalwood and Indian sarsaparilla, enhance skin radiance, while Tvachya herbs support moisture balance and nourishment, according to the authors.Ayurvedic herbs like sandalwood and Indian sarsaparilla contribute to the radiance and vitality of the skin.

Polynesia brings medicine to skin care
In other traditional medicine, Polynesia relies on the healing properties of plants. In a France-based study, researchers delve into the phytochemical composition of five native plants, namely Calophyllum inophyllum (C. inophyllum), Ficus prolixa (F. prolixa), Cordia subcordata (C. subcordata), Gardenia taitensis (G. taitensis) and Curcuma longa (C. longa). 

Deeply rooted in Polynesian traditional medicine and skin care practices, the plants were chosen for their therapeutic and dermatological benefits.

The assays revealed varying radical scavenging and antioxidant activities in the studied plant extracts. Notably, C. inophyllum leaves, F. prolixa aerial roots, C. subcordata leaves, G. taitensis flowers and C. longa rhizomes exhibited significant antioxidant potential. Further analysis pinpointed specific compounds responsible for the radical scavenging activity.

In C. inophyllum leaves, quercetin-O-rhamnoside emerged as a critical contributor to the antioxidant properties. Similarly, rosmarinic acid took the spotlight in C. subcordata leaves. The aerial roots of F. prolixa stood out as the most active, with a diverse array of compounds, including chlorogenic acid, procyanidins, epicatechin and 5-O-caffeoylshikimic acid, responsible for the observed antioxidant effects.

The aerial roots of F. prolixa stood out as the most active, with a diverse array of compounds.The study also uncovered the phytochemical profiles of these plants through molecular networking. Compounds specific to C. inophyllum, such as pyranocoumarins and chromanones, were identified, with variations between leaves and nuts. G. taitensis flowers showed a range of compounds, including iridoids, flavonoids and phenolic acids.

“NAD+, the way to eternal youth?”
Cosmetic ingredients supplier Mibelle Biochemistry recently unveiled RejuveNAD, a solution for stabilizing NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide), a natural molecule that plays a pivotal role in various cellular processes.

NAD+ has garnered attention in the realm of anti-aging supplements. However, incorporating NAD+ into topical cosmetics has been a persistent challenge due to its inherent instability in formulations and difficulty penetrating skin cells. 

However, Mibelle Biochemistry claims RejuveNAD makes the skin appear up to eight years younger in 42 days. The ingredient is sourced from sunflower sprouts cultivated through indoor farming.

“NAD+ is involved in the hundreds of biochemical reactions taking place simultaneously in your body. This makes it a critical molecule, which is why its decline can have major implications on your health,” shares the company. 

“The problem is that NAD+ markedly declines with age. Studies on various model organisms (yeast, worms, mice) showed a strong correlation between reduced NAD+ levels and accelerated aging.” NAD+ is important in preventing “inflammaging” and aging processes in general.

By Venya Patel