Budding skin care launches: Cosmetic flower power tightens, firms and targets pigmentation

04 Dec 2023 --- In NPD highlights this week, formulators tap into the potency of flower extracts. Ashland unveils Perfectyl biofunctional, its chamomile extract crafted withAI to predict the skin care functions of its active compounds. Epicutis also launched its new body care product which containts Spilanthes acmella flower extract, to firm and provide deep hydration for skin.

Innova Market Insights data reveals there was a remarkable 15% compound annual growth in the use of floral and fruit extracts in global beauty and personal care products between April 2018 and March 2023.

More than half of these launches occurred in Europe, with the leading category being Face and Body Cosmetics. Notably, sunflower extract emerged as the most prominent.

AI predicts chamomile skin benefits
Ashland’s Perfectyl biofunctional is a novel high-tech chamomile extract, developed using Zeta Fraction technology and AI. It was inspired by new aesthetic techniques for relaxing facial lines without the need for injections, in addition to preventing blemishes.

Ashland’s Perfectyl biofunctional is a novel high-tech chamomile extract, developed using AI that determines the skin care functionalities of floral compounds.Chamomile is a medicinal herb from the pharmacopeia of calming and relaxing botanicals. Ashland sources its chamomile organically and sustainably from the mountains in Oregon, US.

The natural extract has a composition naturally rich in gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) amino acid and flower acids. Perfectyl targets multiple flaws induced by external and lifestyle stresses, such as post-inflammatory-hyperpigmentation and sebum overproduction.

Initially predicted by AI, Perfectyl addresses GABA pathway through GABAA expression ex vivo. GABA amino acid is a new target for beauty, known to be a facial line relaxer.

“Recent studies show GABA is associated with skin pigmentation, remodeling and muscle relaxation,” says Isabelle Imbert, PhD, R&D director at Ashland. “GABA amino acid is a neurotransmitter described to be the new natural cosmetic alternative solution to botox as a facial line expression relaxer.”

Tested in vitro and in vivo on three skin ethnicities and four phototypes, Perfectyl is marketed as a “multi-ethnic solution” to help all complexions achieve clearer and more uniform skin.

“The younger generation of women are increasingly using non-surgical aesthetic procedures to get flawless skin, and this trend is driven by social media with billions of views,” comments Justine Cotton, global marketing of Biofunctionals at Ashland.

“Inspired by these new aesthetic practices used by GenZ and Millennials to achieve a perfect skin, Ashland developed Perfectyl to help smooth fine lines, refine enlarged pores, clarify imperfections and uneven skin, specifically pigment spots.”

Medical-grade skin care for body
Epicutis, a medical-grade skin care line by Signum Biosciences, launches its first ever body product, the Lipid Body Treatment. Expanding Epicutis’ clean skin care portfolio, the calming, firming and tightening product contains a proprietary blend of botanicals, in small-batch formulations.

Epicutis’ Lipid Body Treatment is engineered to firm and tighten the skin by reducing fat tissue thickness, neovascular activity (formation of new veins) and reduce the overall appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. One application is claimed to provide instant hydration for a full 24 hours.

The body treatment contains a proprietary botanical extract derived from chia seeds, branded as HyVia, which is high in omega 3, αlpha-linolenic acid, omega 6 and linolenic acid. It is coupled with Spilanthes acmella flower extract to help firm and hydrate skin.

Lipid Body Treatment by Epicutis contains Spilanthes acmella flower extract to help firm and hydrate skin (Image credit: Epicutis).The combination is further enhanced by the inclusion of caffeine, lychee seed extract and glucosyl hesperidin, working in harmony to tighten the skin naturally, all without the need for preservatives. 

“After years of development, we are thrilled to share Epicutis Lipid Body Treatment with the world,” comments Maxwell Stock, CEO of Signum. “Bringing together Signum’s proven expertise and patented technology with the power of natural botanicals, this new formula aims to deliver a superior solution for body care.”

Night cream by Thermaderm
Theraderm Clinical Skincare unveils the latest addition to its product range, the Brilliance Night Boost Retinol Repair Cream, designed to revitalize and nourish.

The formula is fortified with a root extract of the flowering plant Lindera strychnifolia, which offers antioxidant properties, helping protect the skin against environmental damage and early signs of aging. 

Sweet almond and jojoba seed oils provide intensive nourishment, elevating overall skin texture. Squalane locks in moisture, leaving the skin soft and supple, while C15-19 alkane, a lightweight hydrocarbon compound, ensures even spreading and quick absorption.

The cream is also formulated with the humectant glycerin and gluconolactone, a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) to  gently exfoliate, stimulating cell turnover for a  more youthful complexion. Retinol is added to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, enhancing skin texture and encouraging collagen production.

By Benjamin Ferrer