Clariant launches microplastic-free opacifier to tackle ocean emergency

29 Jun 2022 --- Clariant is introducing naturally sourced and biodegradable Plantasens OP 95, a micro-plastic-free alternative to traditional acrylate opacifiers, which are considered microplastics and will be banned under the EU/EEA legislative proposal taking effect in 2022.

The launch comes as UN secretary-general António Guterres declared an “ocean emergency” yesterday, urging scientific solutions to treat the plastic crisis.

“Plantasens OP 95 is based on coconut oil and palm (kernel) oil. The feedstock comes from Malaysia, Indonesia or the Philippines, and the product can also be purchased as RSPO grade,” Dr. Thomas Lukowicz, application development manager, industrial and consumer care at Clariant, tells PersonalCareInsights.

The vegan Plantasens OP 95 enables personal care formulators to minimize the impact of shampoos, conditioners, handwashes and other rinse-off shower and bath products on marine and river life.

“We cannot have a healthy planet without a healthy ocean. Our failure to care for the ocean will have ripple effects across the entire 2030 agenda,” underscores Guterres in reference to the UN Sustainable Development Goals.Plantasens OP 95 has a 95% RCI, is sulfate-free and not harmful to aquatic life. Credit: Clariant.

“As rinse-off formulation ingredients will usually end up in waterways and oceans, providing readily biodegradable solutions to this cosmetics sector is an important focus of our product development,” comments Hermann Bach, head of strategic marketing and innovation at Clariant industrial and consumer specialties.

The company details that the ingredient has a 95% renewable carbon index (RCI) and is a readily-biodegradable alternative to microplastic opacifiers. Additionally, it is sulfate-free and not harmful to aquatic life. 

Legislative wave for ocean-friendly personal care
The company highlights a push for the sector toward ocean-friendly personal care products, “intensifying beyond packaging.” This is because consumers are demanding biodegradable cosmetic ingredients and there are regulatory bodies that aim to ban microplastics. 

“A proposal to restrict intentionally added microplastics in the European Union was published in January 2019 by The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA),” notes Lukowicz. 

“The proposal would ban products that contain microplastics from the EU/EEA market if these microplastics are inevitably released to our environment when the products are used. Examples of such products are cosmetics, cleaning and laundry products, fertilizers, plant protection products and seed coatings.” 

“The proposed restriction does not cover all polymers – it concerns only those that are consistent with the microplastic definition and relevant to the concern: less than 5 mm in size, solid, particulate, water insoluble and non-biodegradable. Accordingly, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymers, the most used  – and not biodegradable – opacifier will be considered as microplastics and banned four years after entry in force of the legislation,” he continues. 

EU/EEA legislative
Accordingly, the EU/EEA legislative proposal identifies traditional opacifiers as non-biodegradable. 

“Solid polymer particles with a size below 1 µm [micrometer] are widely used as opacifiers and other ingredients in cosmetics, for fragrance encapsulation in detergents for laundry and cosmetic products and binder particles in latex paints. This would limit the risk reduction potential of a restriction if a limit of 1 µm was used as the lower boundary of the microplastics definition,” details the Opinion of the Committee for Risk Assessment (CRA) and Opinion of the Committee for Socio-economic Analysis (SEAC), European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). 

“The Dossier Submitter has clarified that if a microplastic also has another function besides as or additional to being an abrasive (e.g., opacifying, encapsulation), then it is still considered a microbead for the purposes of this restriction. SEAC notes that this is not readily apparent from the wording of the restriction, which could potentially be clarified.”

“Nearly 80% of wastewater is discharged into the sea without treatment. And some 8 million tons of plastic waste enter the oceans every year,” flags Guterres. 

Viscosity and opacification
Plantasens OP 95 offers a drop-in solution with an opacifying effect at low concentrations. The EU/EEA legislative proposal identifies traditional opacifiers as non-biodegradable and are considered microplastics. 

“Appearance is a key driver for consumer choices, and implies essential product attributes (e.g., mildness, caring). Opacifiers are additives imparting an opaque, creamy white that consumers find luxurious and caring,”  explains Lukowicz.

“By answering formulators’ needs on multiple fronts, it enables an easy switch from water-dispersible acrylate copolymers without compromising on visual appeal,” comments Bach. 

The sulfate-free solution for opacifying can also be used for various applications for the hair and body. 

Furthermore, ideal viscosity can be reached without adding rheological agents, which means less formulation complexity, says Clariant.

Ripple effects
The fragrance industry is also facing a critical juncture as the European EU Green Deal’s Chemical Strategy for Sustainability requires substituting chemicals and reformulating products. The EU’s Chemical Strategy for Sustainability proposals include an extension of the General Approach to Risk Management , which does not consider the range of substances fragrances have to achieve their function.

Cosmetics Europe recently set out recommendations for the European Commission to revise the Cosmetic Products Regulation to ensure a smoother green and digital transition for the industry. This is because there is a possibility of an unnecessary widespread invalidation and illegality of most cosmetic products.

The EU commission explains that scientific evidence shows that microplastics have negative effects on ecosystems such as coral reefs, deep seas and polar regions, including all marine life and human health. Moreover, there is a large economic impact on terrestrial and marine ecosystems due to the release of plastics into the environment.

By Venya Patel