Dksh and Eriger unveil PhytoVec technology, solutions for “oxidation” of active ingredients
26 Jan 2022 --- Based on the new and patented PhytoVec technology built by start-up Laboratoires Eriger, a partnership has been formed with Dksh. Eriger is a France-based company specializing in vectorization, whereas Dksh is a services provider for various personal care areas from makeup, skin and hair care.
Clarisse de Lacheze-Murel, marketing and communication manager, Eriger informs PersonalCareInsights that “this technology allows the protection, penetration, diffusion of the active ingredient through the skin as well as the stability in the final galenic.”
On the business side, Dksh tells PersonalCareInsights that it is amongst the "top 10 specialty chemicals distributors in Europe and with this partnership" it will be able to "maintain leadership on specialty ingredients for cosmetics." Dksh’s business unit performance materials will provide: development, marketing, sales, distribution, and logistics for Eriger’s PhytoVec technology. With its "strong presence in the market" it intends to leverage Eriger, says Dksh.
“Our partnership with Dksh is a real strength for our start-up. This synergy between the cosmetics market, Dksh’s knowledge, and our vectorization expertise will provide customers with a high level of cutting-edge services and products,” says Gérald Chomat, Eriger’s co-head.
Chlorophyll powered technology
Brands and cosmetics producers can customize molecules via Dksh, Eriger tells PersonalCareInsights.
PhytoVec uses vectorization as the method of extracting “fragile, unstable, or destabilizing active molecules at high concentration,” says Clarisse.
The sustainable and responsibly developed technology depends on chlorophyll, a green pigment found in cyanobacteria and plants. The chlorophyll comes from white mulberry plants sourced in China, informs Clarisse.
Specifically, PhytoVec uses the Phytol part of the chlorophyll. Clarisse elaborates that Phytol allows for “creating capsules” in which active ingredients are placed.
Additionally, she suggests that the technology “can be applied to active molecules and dry plant extracts.”
Enhancing molecules and vitamins
The PhytoVec technology is designed to ensure the improved bioavailability of active ingredients. This is because if molecules are not stabilized, “the molecule is no longer active due to its oxidation,” says Clarisse.
For instance, Eriger has conducted tests using PhytoVec technology and retinol molecules, an active ingredient often used in skin creams. They found that the penetration (10x higher) and protection against UV rays lasted up to 90 days.
The study proves that PhytoVec can vastly enhance the performance of other active molecules in products from the plant world.
Eriger will soon offer PhytoVec – CBD, containing stabilized and enhanced molecules.
Examples of other vitamins and molecules enhanced by Eriger’s technology include vitamin B3 (lightening properties), molecule glabridine (lightening properties), coenzyme Q10 or Ubiquinone (anti-aging), vitamin A (retinol) and vanillin (aroma).
For brands approaching Eriger for customizable molecules, the process consists of “feasibility tests, development studies and industrialization,” describes Clarisse.
The molecules of active ingredients used in beauty and care products need to be protected as it ensures the assimilation of ingredients is easy and stable. This is why Eriger offers PhytoVec technology.
In other related news, active ingredients in snails like natural allantoin, hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans can aid in regenerating skin, healing and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
Also, Seppic finds that fermentation produces active ingredients, such as polycatechocyanidins extracted from bilberry, which are natural antioxidants. Meanwhile, Laboratoire PYC focuses on stabilizing prolyl hydroxylase molecules used in its collagen in supplements.
By Venya Patel
