Evolving research supports nutricosmetic innovations beyond beautiful skin

09 May 2024 --- Advancing clinical research and technologies set the scene for innovative, ingestible beauty products while consumers increasingly demand scientifically-backed ingredients and products. The nutrition industry explores nutricosmetic applications for skin health and beyond, examining the gut-skin axis, skin diseases and mental well-being.

Data from Innova Market Insights indicates a 9% year-over-year growth in supplement launches with skin health claims from 2022 to 2023. 

Nutrition Insight continues its conversation on nutricosmetic market developments with experts from Lallemand Health Solutions, Gencor, TriNutra, Monteloeder by Suannutra and Bioiberica.

“Nutricosmetics has emerged as a compelling trend for skin care products in the nutrition industry. These beauty supplements are seen as a way to complement topical skin care routines by nurturing skin, nails and hair from within,” says Élodie Aragon, product manager at Lallemand Health Solutions. 

She adds that the company’s probiotic supplements play a “pivotal role in this transformative movement.” By acting on the gut-brain-skin axis, probiotics can go beyond physical appearance, helping to impact mental wellness positively. 

Maggie McNamara, marketing director at Gencor, adds that beauty consumers want actual ingredients and outcomes in AI. “Shoppers prefer clinically proven, multi-targeted skin health products. Vitamin C, E, hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, retinol substitutes, biotin and omega-3 fatty acids are popular. However, customers realize that topical skin care only covers a limited section of the skin.” 

“A wider range of ingredients that promote cardiovascular health for proper circulation and skin and nail benefits, such as Gencor’s Levagen+,which provides restful, restorative sleep and has been clinically proven to affect skin health, are finally recognized for their importance.” 

Evolving holistic research 
McNamara asserts that the relationship between nutrition and skin health is receiving more attention. “Epidemiology and clinical research have connected nutrition to tissue and organ function, indicating that diet and nutrition affect skin health and aging.”

“Theoretical or anecdotal evidence suggests specific diets can prevent several skin disorders. However, more research is needed to understand the physiological consequences of vitamin combinations in food and supplementation. The benefits of dietary elements in cosmetics are rarely highlighted.” 

Supplements can complement topical skin care routines by nurturing skin, nails and hair from within.Dr. Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, business development director at TriNutra, also asserts that research has made the relationship between good nutrition, a healthy lifestyle and healthy skin more apparent. 

“Studies have revealed that certain molecules present in nutritional supplements can affect the skin directly or indirectly while having numerous metabolic effects. This research has helped to support the use of these products as both dietary supplements and topical ingredients.” 

In addition, she cautions that consumers are no longer satisfied with beauty products that only cater to their skin. “They seek products that promote overall wellness and have been clinically proven to enhance beauty-from-within. Such products include nutrients that support a healthy microbiome to improve the gut-skin-brain axis, as well as those that aid in reducing stress and improving sleep quality.”  

According to Nuria Caturla, chief R&D officer at Monteloeder by Suannutra, scientifically-backed botanicals have emerged as “promising additions” to traditional ingredients, such as collagen, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. 

“Studies have shifted focus from solely enhancing external beauty to addressing underlying causes, thus complementing and enhancing traditional cosmetics. This holistic approach aims to combat factors contributing to skin concerns, boosting conventional skin care routines.” 

Building consumer trust 
Caturla stresses the importance of educating consumers about the benefits of ingestible beauty products and their role in skin care routines. 

She also cautions that regulatory uncertainties “muddy the landscape” for ingestible beauty products and pose challenges for product development and marketing, which is critical to securing long-term consumer commitment. 

“Ensuring the scientific validation of ingredients and their purported benefits becomes imperative to foster consumer trust in the efficacy of these products. Overcoming consumer skepticism proves to be a hurdle, necessitating transparent communication and evidence-based marketing strategies.” 

“Furthermore, the inherent variability in individual responses to ingredients presents a challenge in guaranteeing consistent results across diverse user demographics,” she continues. “As the market becomes increasingly saturated with competing brands, standing out amidst the fierce competition becomes daunting.” 

Scientific support for ingredients helps to build consumer trust as food supplement legislation does not cover beauty claims.Scientific support 
Meanwhile, Antonio Vendrell, marketing director at Bioiberica, cautions that scientific research is of “paramount importance” in nutricosmetics because beauty claims do not usually fall within the current regulatory frameworks for food supplements. 

“This means products without science-backed health claims can present a challenge, leading to ineffective solutions and false claims littering the market.” 

“We’re also seeing an increasing number of skin care consumers doing their own research to understand the science-backed benefits of skin care ingredients. Manufacturers, therefore, recognize the growing importance of selecting ingredients that are not only supported by science but that consumers recognize and value too,” he continues. 

To illustrate the importance of scientifically-backed ingredients, Gencor’s McNamara highlights Levagen+ — a bioavailable form of palmitoylethanolamide — is clinically proven to support inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema and dermatitis. 

“Eczema is a debilitating skin disorder clinically characterized by the development of itchy, dry, rough and scaling skin, and Levagen+ has been shown to alleviate symptom severity of eczema compared to standard moisturizers. More specifically, Levagen+ was shown to reduce redness and dryness significantly in those suffering from eczema compared to other creams.” 

Gut-skin axis 
As the experts underscore the importance of scientifically supported ingredients, Aragon at Lallemand Health Solutions highlights the evolving research on the gut-skin axis, which solidifies this connection.

For example, she details that recent research on acne patients found that 54% showed altered gut flora, while reduced diversity in early-life intestinal microbiota increases the risk of atopic disorders in the skin.  

“Probiotics play a crucial role in maintaining gut barrier integrity, modulating the immune response and supporting stress resilience. Their actions may help reduce oxidative stress and sebum excess, contribute to skin barrier function and support skin microbiota resilience. However, selecting the right probiotic strains is crucial, as most health effects are strain-specific and backed by scientific research.” 

The company’s Lacidofil (containing L. rhamnosus Rosell-11 and L. helveticus Rosell-52) has shown benefits for the gastrointestinal tract, leading to overall well-being. Beyond gut health, clinical studies also indicate a positive impact on sensitive skin after one month of consumption. In 63.3% of study participants taking Lacidofil, the research found a significant reduction in SCORAD — a clinical tool used to assess the extent and severity of eczema. 

Beyond skin care, brands are developing nutricosmetics to address the gut-skin axis, mental health and inflammation.Beyond the skin 
Aragon further highlights that Lallemand Health Solutions will soon reveal further details about a new proof-of-concept clinical trial featuring its psychobiotic formula, Cerebiome, with 35 participants. 

She explains that this research explores “how probiotics can help with feelings of occasional stress and contribute to the appearance of healthy skin. This can potentially bring innovative probiotic solutions to the nutricosmetics market.”

Cerebiome is a probiotic solution that acts on the gut-brain-skin axis, combining L. helveticus Rosell-52 and B. longum Rosell-175. Clinical and mechanistic studies highlight eight mechanisms of action on the gut-brain axis. 

“At a daily dose of only 3 billion CFU, Cerebiome helps support a healthy stress response to occasional stress and promote a positive mood, which may help maintain natural beauty,” adds Aragon.

TriNutra’s Dr. Von Oppen-Bezalel illustrates the health benefits of the company’s B’utyQuin beyond skin care. The proprietary, standardized black seed oil holds clinically studied benefits for use from the inside out. “Its novel and proven effects on mitochondrial function, ATP production, inflammation and oxidation set it apart from other oils.” 

“B’utyQuin has positively influenced the skin and gut microorganisms and reduced stress by lowering cortisol levels when ingested. B’utyQuin is also the only black seed oil to meet the US Pharmacopoeia (USP) monograph and has several global patents for its composition.”

USP is an official quality standard for medicines marketed in the US, ensuring the quality of drugs and their ingredients to protect the safety of patients.

“Vital” technologies 
The professionals note that technology is becoming increasingly intertwined with the nutricosmetic and beauty industries. 

New technologies help to create personalized nutrition and skin care routines.Dr. Von Oppen-Bezalel says that technology plays a “vital role” in the beauty industry, allowing companies to innovate and personalize their products. 

“Brands are using technology to enhance their development process, improve the buying journey for customers and connect consumers. From hair to skin to makeup, technology is helping beauty brands create better products and deliver an improved customer experience.” 

Gencor’s McNamara details how “cutting-edge skin care solutions” improve absorption and penetration and have been developed through rigorous research and development. 

“Pharmako Biotechnologies (Australia)’s LipiSperse is a clinically validated, multi-award-winning enhanced delivery technology that increases bioavailability and body updating. Clinical evidence shows that LipiSperse-powered Levagen+ reduces skin dryness, redness and total POEM (Patient-Oriented Eczema Measure) scores compared to a comparator cream used twice daily for four weeks.” 

She adds that AI and machine learning allow consumers to obtain customized skin care products and make informed selections by assessing skin type and concerns. 

Bioiberica’s Vendrell also underscores the potential benefits of technologies supporting personalized nutrition, which are “becoming more relevant than ever.” 

“Apps that collect an individual’s information, such as nutrition, lifestyle and their demographic, can allow manufacturers to develop more tailored skin health solutions that target individual concerns and needs.”

“Alongside this, formula developments allow more space for format innovation, including functional foods such as dairy products and shakes.”  

By Jolanda van Hal