Exosomes gain commercial momentum for regenerative skin care

The personal care industry is advancing product innovation and regulatory readiness for exosomes, as consumer demand for longevity-inspired anti-aging skin care continues to grow. 

In this space, Dermalogica has introduced a leave-on product that contains plant-based exosomes and enzyme-derived exfoliation ingredients.

Meanwhile, biotech firm Sparkling Sciences has secured US INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) certification for two of its proprietary exosome-based ingredients used in skin, scalp, and hair formulations.

Exosomes are microscopic messengers, released by skin cells, that contain proteins, lipids, and genetic material. In cosmetics, exosomes help strengthen the communication between skin cells that aging impairs. They are touted as next-generation anti-aging actives that boost cell renewal and collagen production.

“Today’s consumers aren’t just looking to reduce the appearance of wrinkles — they’re seeking advanced formulas that support the skin’s natural renewal,” says Dr. Bob Bianchini, VP of R&D at Dermatologica.

Innova Market Insights has flagged that exosomes have experienced a 24% CAGR in patent publications over the past five years.

Daily exosome dose

Dermalogica’s Phyto Nature E² is a daily leave-on treatment designed to support skin renewal. As the skin ages, it loses its ability to regenerate cells effectively, resulting in changes in tone and texture and leading to visible signs of aging. 

The product is designed to mitigate this decline at both surface and deeper skin layers. It combines a regenerative exosome blend with exfoliation ingredients derived from pumpkin.

The formula also contains botanical ingredients phyto-glycogen and prickly pear, which work to brighten and smooth the skin.

According to Dermatologica, the combined formula “reawakens” the skin’s natural surface renewal processes.

“Phyto Nature E² helps boost surface exfoliation and visibly restores skin smoothness and radiance. In collaboration with our research colleagues at Unilever, we’ve developed a next-generation formula that delivers a sensorial experience with visible, lasting results,” says Bianchini.

The skin becomes less effective at regenerating cells as it ages.The company reports that clinical testing showed a visible reduction in fine lines and wrinkles within two weeks, based on a study with 32 participants.

Dermalogica says the product builds on its earlier launch of Exo Booster, which introduced bacterial exosomes in professional products meant for post-aesthetic procedures. While Exo Booster was designed for use after treatments such as microneedling and laser resurfacing, Phyto Nature E² is formulated for daily at-home use.

Cleared for commerce

Cosmetic products that contain novel human-derived ingredients, such as exosomes, are often complicated to classify legally. These products frequently make therapeutic, pharmacological, or biological claims, and could therefore be classified as drugs rather than cosmetics.

Sparkling Sciences states that the INCI certifications for its exosome ingredients clear a regulatory pathway for commercialization and support its plans for global expansion.

INCI certifications provide standardized names for ingredients, enabling cosmetic brands to formulate, label, and sell their products legally in regulated markets.

One of the company’s approved ingredients, Human Hair Follicle Dermal Papilla Cell Exosomes, is designed for scalp care and hair root conditioning. It is derived from human dermal papilla cells. 

The second approved ingredient is Organic Rice Bran-Derived Vesicles. It is suitable for skin and hair care formulations and, according to Sparkling Sciences, has already been adopted in commercial products.

Both ingredients are purified and freeze-dried as part of their biotech manufacturing process.

The K-beauty brand says there is a growing global demand for exosome ingredients, and it is developing a new R&D and manufacturing facility to support this increasing demand. The facility is expected to be completed later this year.