Eye care: Trending ingredients, packaging formats and new product launches

26 Jun 2023 --- Skin care products targeting the most delicate area of the face – under and around the eyes – have significantly diversified over the last few years. In this report, we look at global market research data on popular ingredients and packaging solutions, while spotlighting new product innovations and research surrounding the dangers of under-regulated eye cosmetics.

According to Innova Market Insights, product releases for eye care more than doubled from 2017 to 2022, with an average annual growth of 5%.

Among the eye care products launched, most had anti-aging claims, and “no animal ingredients” claims grew the most, with an average annual growth of 28%.

The market researcher highlights that Europe currently leads with the most eye care product launches, recording half of all global launches tracked. The region was followed by Asia (24%), North America (13%), Latin America (6%), Middle East/Africa (3%) and Australasia (3%).

Among the eye care products launched, most had anti-aging claims, and “no animal ingredients” claims grew the most, with an average annual growth of 28%.Fastest growing claims
In line with the growing consumer awareness and concerns around the use of animal-derived ingredients in skin care, the “No Animal Ingredients” claim is among the fastest growing positionings in eye care product launches, according to Innova Market Insights.

One example of this on-pack positioning being featured prominently is The Body Shop’s Edelweiss Eye Serum Concentrate, “enriched with double the concentration of edelweiss,” which is made with 96% ingredients of natural origin and certified by The Vegan Society. 

Next on the list of top ranked product claims is the ethical claim of “Not Tested on Animals,” which has been capturing more of consumer awareness and driven forward by regulator shifts such as Canada’s recent “landmark” ban on the sale and trade of cosmetics based on animal testing.

Another trending on-pack positioning is the “Organic” label, appealing to consumers seeking out naturality.

Top ingredients and packaging formats
Glycerol was identified by Innova Market Insights as the ingredient most used in eye care launches, at 13% of global eye care product launches tracked between 2017 and 2022. An example of a product featuring this among its main ingredients is Dr Dennis Gross’ Advanced Retinol Plus Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum.

Investigating packaging trends, sachets are highlighted as becoming more popular for eye care product launches – such as Sephora’s cucumber eye masks – as consumers demand convenience and ease for use when traveling. Meanwhile, pump bottles are notably being used less.

The overall top packaging types used in new eye care product launches were the folded carton box, jar and tube with applicator.

Space explorer-endorsed eye care
In recent notable eye care innovations, Delavie Sciences debuted Aeonia Eye Refresh earlier this year. It is the second product in their Space Certified skin care line, Aeonia.

Clinically proven to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, puffiness and dark spots, the repairing and renewing properties of the product come from Bacillus Lysate, marketed as the first biological cosmetic to be recognized as Space Certified Technology by the Space Foundation. 

This proprietary ingredient has been proven to significantly reduce UVA-induced ROS levels, activate DNA repair enzymes and stimulate hyaluronic acid production, shares its manufacturer.

“Aeonia features the first of many patented ingredients that will revolutionize the skin care market,” remarks Dr. Kyle Landry, president at Delavie Sciences.

A study found that traditional eye cosmetics that contain kohl may pose a significant threat of lead exposure to consumers and their children.The Aeonia Eye Refresh is designed to be used with the Age Defying Serum, which launched in October 2022. Formulated with ferulic acid, resveratrol, vitamin B6, caffeine, vitamin B3, polymers and peptides, Aeonia Eye Refresh includes antioxidants and rejuvenating ingredients to restore the sensitive skin around the eyes.

In a twenty-eight-day clinical trial with subjects of different skin types, imaging from a Visia skin analysis device showed a statistically significant reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, puffiness and dark spots, according to the company.

How an eye cosmetic could harm children
A study conducted by Eye7 Kids Hospital, India, reveals that children under the age of six are at greatest risk for health problems caused by lead exposure. The researchers behind the paper warn that a large number of individuals lack awareness regarding the avoidable source of lead poisoning in both adults and children: traditional eye cosmetics that contain kohl.

“Kohl can be harmful to children’s eyes due to its abrasive texture, which can cause irritation and inflammation of the delicate eye tissues,” Dr. Rahil Chaudhary, one of the researchers leading the study, tells Personal Care Insights.

“The metallic components found in some kohl preparations may trigger allergic reactions in children, leading to redness, itching and swelling of the eyes. Kohl’s ingredients can disrupt the natural balance of ocular flora, increasing the risk of eye infections in children.” 

Lead, usually in the form of lead sulfide, can sometimes make up over 50% of the weight of Kohl products. Additionally, kohl products can include various substances like aluminum, antimony, carbon, iron and zinc compounds, as well as camphor and menthol.

Anemia, kidney issues and neurological harm encompassing seizures, coma and even fatality are among the consequences linked to elevated levels of lead exposure. Even with relatively low levels, prolonged exposure to lead can result in difficulties related to learning and behavior.

The Centers for Disease Control has set a blood lead level of 5 micrograms per deciliter (µg/dL) in children as the reference level at which CDC recommends initiating public health actions.

Infants of mothers who use these products on their eyes occasionally exhibit heightened levels of lead in their bloodstream, flag the researchers.

“Manufacturers can explore alternative ingredients and formulation techniques to reduce or eliminate heavy metal contamination in Kohl cosmetics,” urges Dr. Chaudhary. “They should also actively engage with consumers by conducting testing and gathering feedback on their products.”

By Benjamin Ferrer