Green beauty chemistry yields upcycled milk thistle peptides, botox-imitating flower extract and novel esters

04 Apr 2023 --- Eco-friendly ingredient launches this spring spotlight a special extract of the summer snowflake flower that mimics botox alongside new alternatives to traditional petrochemical ingredients made using flexible chemistry for a reduced eco-footprint. Formulators have also developed upcycled milk thistle byproducts for hair strengthening and color maintenance.

PersonalCareInsights explores the latest planet-forward innovations in skin care and hair treatments, rolled out by key suppliers BASF Personal Care, International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) and Oleon Health and Beauty.

At in-cosmetics Global in Barcelona, BASF Personal Care debuted Kerasylium, a new hair care micro-complex, nutrient-packed and peptide-rich ingredient to help repair damaged hair and to protect it from daily aggressions.

Kerasylium is the result of upcycling milk thistle seed cake, a byproduct of milk thistle oil production.Kerasylium is the result of upcycling milk thistle (Silybum marianum) seed cake, a byproduct of milk thistle oil production. It expands BASF’s growing portfolio of active ingredients produced via circular models to conserve resources.

The milk thistle used is grown in France for oil production and is based on a traceable and sustainable supply chain.

“Many cosmetic manufacturers rely on keratin for their hair care products because it helps to repair the hair from the inside out. However, the keratin-based ingredients that are usually used in hair treatments are of animal origin. We wanted to change that, so we developed Kerasylium, a plant-based alternative,” details Cécile Kalem, launch manager Europe, BASF Beauty Care Solutions France.

The peptides in Kerasylium exhibit an amino acid composition similar to that of keratin, a protein naturally present in the hair, which ensures its resistance and elasticity. 

Thanks to its high peptide content (50-70% of the active matter), Kerasylium is said to help to prevent breakage, especially of weakened hair, through the stabilization and repair of hair keratin, making hair stronger, shinier and softer. 

Moreover, studies cited by BASF have shown that Kerasylium decreases keratin denaturation by protecting the structural proteins of the hair against oxidative stress, while helping to maintain its color for longer.

Summer snowflakes mirror botox effect
As the cost-of-living crisis continues, consumers are seeking more cost-effective alternatives to treatments like botox. A 56% increase in Google searches for “creams like Botox” was recorded in 2022. Skincare brands noticed the trend supporting a “botox-like” skin appearance without the cost and possible complications of receiving a botox injection.

Summer snowflake bulb extract is being used to freeze away facial expression lines and excessive sweat.Several botanical cosmetic active ingredients with “botox-like” activity exist on the market. However, IFF argues that the mode of action underlying their muscle relaxant activity is often unclear.

A new study from IFF’s beauty ingredients arm Lucas Meyer Cosmetics deciphers the mechanism behind the “botox like” activity of IBR-Snowflake – a sustainably derived natural aqueous extract from summer snowflake bulbs (Leucojum aestivum bulb) – demonstrating for the first time a “true botox-like’ activity” for a botanical cosmetic active ingredient.

Summer snowflake bulbs – a relatively small bulbous crop, usually grown for landscaping and rock gardens – naturally produce neuromodulator substances to defend against herbivores and pathogens. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics developed a technology that uses this plant’s defense mechanism to freeze away facial expression lines and excessive sweat.

“The extract significantly inhibited synaptic vesicle trafficking and/or release and blocked the induced acetylcholine release, just like botulinum toxin,” highlights the manufacturer.

The circular factor about this ingredient is that all of its biomass waste generated during production is repurposed as compost. IBR-Snowflake is also preservative-free, Cosmos-approved, Natrue-approved, Vegan-certified by The Vegan Society, China-compliant and patented.

Moves toward flexible and sustainable chemistry
Oleon Health and Beauty, a specialist in converting natural fats and oils into a wide range of products, is highlighting its new products recently launched within the INCITE project.

“This multi-stakeholder project was running over 52 months with a budget of €13.3 million (US$14.1 million) and was developed as part of the EU Horizon 2020 Research and Innovation Payment Programme,” shares the company.

The shift away from fossil fuel-based solutions has been prompting companies to embrace vegetable-based and even upcycled product development, highlights Oleon.

Oleon is presenting its Jolee Jellies range as alternatives to traditional petrochemical ingredients (Image credit: Oleon).The initiative supports transition to a more flexible and sustainable chemistry by taking novel integrated upstream and downstream processing. It involves flow chemistry and membrane technology in two chemo-enzymatic demonstration cases at an industrial level.

“By moving our product manufacturing from a chemical catalytic system to one that embraces enzymatic esterification, during both up-and downstream processing, we are enabling a wide range of benefits for brands looking to develop greener products in the beauty and personal care industry,” says Rune Daneels, product manager at Oleon.

At the recent In-Cosmetics Global 2023 show in Barcelona, Spain, the company launched two of its products that reflect a shift to greener cosmetics. Isopropyl palmitate, known commercially as Radia 7199ACT, and Isoamyl Laurate or Jolee 7749ACT.

“These two products were tagged with our newly launched ‘ACT’ tag that reflects not only the importance for companies to ACT now to combat climate change but is also the abbreviation of the chemical name of an enzyme (acetylcholinesterase),” explains Daneels.

“Enzymatic isopropyl palmitate and enzymatic isoamyl laurate are esters produced by our enzymatic process, offering a lower reaction temperature and pressure than conventional chemical reactions,” Rune points out.

“This has a significant impact on lowering a manufacturer’s environmental footprint. Moreover, the products offer higher purity, a lower odor score and fewer VOCs – increasing the overall quality of the products.’

The shift away from fossil fuel-based solutions has been prompting companies to embrace vegetable-based and even upcycled product development, highlights Oleon. At In-Cosmetics Global 2023, the supplier also showcased its Jolee Jellies range of multifunctional ingredients presented as alternatives to traditional petrochemical ingredients.

“The range was developed as an innovative product replacement for waterless and transparent solutions, enabling formulators to develop multi-functional products that can be used in body, face and hair care,” highlights Daneels.

Imbuing gel-like beauty and personal care products with a “bouncy” and “light” sensory, the ingredients are crafted toward “bringing the fun factor back into skin care.”

By Benjamin Ferrer