Greentech develops skin microbiome-balancing fermented gentian extract to restore hydration and lipids

03 Sep 2024 --- With a growing emphasis on microbiome balance, a recent study in Cosmetics reveals that a new active ingredient rebalances the skin holobiont, which “represents an assemblage of a host organism and its microbial ecosystem.” The fermented extract of wild yellow gentian roots offers benefits for skin hydration and lipid levels, providing a promising natural solution for dry and dehydrated skin. 

Dr. Jean-Daniel Abraham, director R&D at Greentech tells Personal Care Insights, “gentian fermentation provides polar lipids and amino acids, giving the product moisturizing, protective and lipid-replenishing properties.”

According to the scientists at cosmetics and biotechnology company, fermenting Gentiana lutea roots with the “rare and resistant bacterium” Sphingomonas faena boosts hyaluronic acid (HA) production in skin cells. HA is essential for water retention in the skin, aiding in hydration and elasticity.

The research focuses on the impact of the gentian-fermented extract on the skin’s microbiota and overall health, highlighting its potential as a valuable ingredient in skin care products. The plant is native to the mountains of central and southern Europe.

The microbiota is a complex ecosystem of microorganisms that coexists with the skin. The study underscores that its balance or homeostasis is crucial for skin health, especially in terms of hydration and lipid content. “The skin host and microbiota form a synergistic evolutionary unit referred to as ‘skin holobiont,’” reads the paper. “The skin barrier has a double role: to prevent the penetration of outside elements and the evaporation of water from the skin.”

The authors add that “preserving microbiota diversity at the genus level is key to maintaining skin homeostasis. Indeed, a disruption to that delicate balance (due to barrier alteration or imbalance between symbionts and pathogens, for example) may lead to impaired skin function or even to diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis or cutaneous lupus.”

The metaproteomic study reveals that Gentian Fermented Extract restores youthful skin microbiota, enhancing overall skin health.Harmonious microbiome

Twenty female volunteers with dry and dehydrated skin participated in the clinical phase of the study. Participants applied a gel containing 1% gentian-fermented extract to one side of their face and a placebo to the other over the course of 28 days. 

The gentian-fermented extract was tested on human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes. It showed a notable increase in HA production and enhanced expression of CD44, a receptor that plays an important role in skin hydration and barrier function. The extract also promotes lipid synthesis in the skin, which helps to preserve the skin’s barrier function and general health.

Abraham adds: “CD44 is the cellular receptor of HA. Through its signaling cascade, HA is critical for skin barrier maintenance. Indeed, the HA/CD44 glycoprotein interaction triggers survival pathways and influences skin differentiation, the formation of both tight junctions and lipid lamellar bilayer of the stratum corneum, which in turn influences skin permeability barrier homeostasis.”

The results showed a significant increase in skin hydration and surface lipids on the side treated with gentian-fermented extract. The findings suggest that gentian-fermented extract could be an effective ingredient in skin care products aimed at combating dryness and dehydration, particularly in aging populations. The study found that gentian-fermented extract increases lipid synthesis by 147%.

“Gentian-fermented extract is efficient on both dehydrated and dry skins by stimulating overall moisture, protecting or restoring the skin surface lipids according to skin condition, in vitro and in vivo,” details the paper.

Water and ceramide boost

The study’s metaproteomic analysis revealed that gentian-fermented extract helps restore a “youthful holobiont profile” by rebalancing the skin’s microbiota without disturbing its diversity. 

Clinical trials show that Gentian Fermented Extract significantly improves skin hydration and lipid levels after 28 days of use (Image credit: Greentech).The study finds that “by studying holobiont protein interactions and microbial diversity thanks to a metaproteomic analysis, gentian-fermented extract demonstrates an ability to preserve global skin microbiome diversity while increasing Staphylococcus epidermidis and Ralstonia species abundances.”

“S. epidermidis has a well-known role in skin health and barrier function. More precisely, it has been shown that it secretes a sphingomyelinase that facilitates the host production of ceramides to help maintain skin integrity and prevent water loss of damaged skin by acting on the lipid metabolism… Ralstonia sp. abundance is increased in skins considered ideal, which have a better water-oil balance and barrier function, as well as a higher hydration content compared to undesirable skins.”

This finding is relevant for mature and maturing skin, as skin hydration and barrier function tend to decline with age.

The capacity of gentian-fermented extract to promote the synthesis of lipids and proteins involved in maintaining the skin barrier highlights even more of its potential for use in skin care. This effect contributes to a more resilient skin barrier that is capable of retaining moisture and protecting against external stressors.

Atopic and sensitive skin potential 

We asked Abraham about uses of gentian-fermented extract beyond what is outlined in the study. He details: 

“Supplementary data show that gentian-fermented extract upregulates Glutaredoxin (GLRX), Sirtuin 3 and Sirtuin 7 expression in treated keratinocytes by respectively +130%, +90% and +70% compared to untreated (control). In fibroblasts treated with gentian-fermented extract, GLRX, Glutathion S-transferase 1, Thioredoxin, Heme oxygenase 1 and Peroxiredoxin 1 expression was higher than in untreated (control) by respectively +120%, +90%, +90%, +80% and +160%.”

“Completed with results on proteins linked to antioxidant activity identified thanks to metaproteomic analysis, it is therefore highly probable that our extract can also help regulate skin problems in which oxidative stress is an underlying factor. Moreover, its action on skin holobiont and especially proteins linked to skin barrier function as well as natural defenses suggest that gentian-fermented extract could also be of interest for the care of sensitive or atopic skins.”

In related news, Personal Care Insights spoke with Phyla Skincare on its clinically proven probiotic that solely targets acne bacteria without causing dysbiosis in the microbiome.

Innova Market Insights finds skin barrier claims surging in personal care products, with a 15% CAGR over the past five years. This surge can be traced back to the larger microbiome trend in skin care, where in 2021 and 2022, skin microbiome claims were focused on providing balanced microbial biota. However, microbiome-focused ingredients, such as probiotics, also have barrier-repairing properties, which brands are now highlighting more often. Hair care products are also following this trend, with a focus on scalp barrier repair.

By Venya Patel