IFRA spotlights fragrance’s social value as EU shakes up chemical and sustainability rules

18 Jul 2022 --- The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has released its Green Deal policy recommendations focused on the role and value of the fragrance industry in the EU’s sustainability transition. The report urges EU policymakers to take “full account” of fragrance’s economic, social and cultural value in drawing up new chemicals and environmental sustainability rules.

“IFRA’s main concern coming from the EU Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability [CSS] – a sub-strategy of the European Green Deal – is the move toward hazard-based regulatory instruments,” Aurélie Perrichet, regional director Europe at IFRA, tells PersonalCareInsights. 

“A hazard-based approach regulates substances on the basis of their intrinsic properties, without taking account of the exposure to the substance. A risk-based approach takes into account the exposure.”

She underscores that a risk-based approach is important for evaluating the safety of fragrance ingredients – as fragrances represent a relatively small element in the finished product, but can be a major factor for consumers’ acceptance and satisfaction.IFRA highlights the need to acknowledge its long history of product safety and the critical contribution of fragranced consumer products to European health, wellness and hygiene. 

The Green Deal is a strategy by the EU to become carbon neutral by 2050. The initiative is a response to climate change and environmental degradation, by also decoupling economic growth from resource use.

Raising the sustainability bar
Perrichet explains that as the industry body representing the fragrance industry worldwide, its role is to raise the bar on sustainability in the fragrance sector, through a developed Sustainability Charter (created jointly with the flavor sector). 

“This Charter is open, inclusive and comprehensive, taking a life-cycle approach and giving the opportunity and tools for everyone in our industry to foster sustainability for fragrance creation,” she says.

“IFRA also supports the EU’s efforts to ensure health and environmental protection while at the same time improving the competitiveness of the industry, promoting recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic, fostering the EU’s open strategic autonomy and making the transition to a bio-based economy.” 

“IFRA’s policy recommendations underline its commitment to science-based solutions and promotion of the principles of safe use through adequate control and sustainability,” adds Hans Holger Gliewe, chairman at IFRA. 

“We are at a turning point, and IFRA is ready to share our industry’s expertise and experiences to ensure a green transition that works for everyone,” says Martina Bianchini, president at IFRA.

Anticipating proposals
IFRA says it will share the report and policy recommendations with EU policymakers, who are expected to summarize the debate and the detailed proposals outlined in the EU CSS. “The Commission proposals are expected to be published in the coming months.”

“[Environmental] sustainability is at the heart of our sector’s sustainable growth. As the EU releases its 2022 Strategic foresight, IFRA reaffirms its support for the EU’s overarching strategic objectives – twinning the green and digital transitions and fostering resilience,”affirms Gliewe. The modern fragrance industry has its roots in Europe in the South of France. 

Last month, Cosmetics Europe also set out recommendations for the European Commission to revise the Cosmetic Products Regulation to ensure a smoother green and digital transition for the industry. It states that any revisions to the CPR should be collaborative, holistic and factor in the European Green Deal for coherency and consistency across legislations.

Bear in mind
IFRA’s policy recommendations include using the association’s global safe use program, the IFRA Standards and its Sustainability Charter. It highlights that the IFRA Standards ban restricts or sets criteria for the use of certain ingredients based on safety risk assessments carried out by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials.

“Now we need to define the rules that ensure a dynamic, innovative, knowledge-led future for our industry – something that will benefit our suppliers, our customers and the well-being of European citizens,” comments Bianchini. 

IFRA highlights the need to acknowledge its history of product safety and the critical contribution of fragranced consumer products to European health, wellness and hygiene. It also adds that fragrances in personal care products are ranked by consumers as one of the most important factors for purchase decisions.

“Moreover, for nearly 50 years, the fragrance industry has carefully examined the safe use of fragrance ingredients and established the IFRA Code of Practice and the IFRA Standards based on a continuously refined risk assessment approach for fragrance ingredients,” shares Perrichet. 

“For 250 years, the fragrance industry has been a symbol of Europe’s natural and cultural heritage and a fundamental part of Europeans’ daily experiences,” says Bianchini. The modern fragrance industry has its roots in Europe in the South of France, highlights IFRA.

Another recommendation is to consider the distinctiveness of fragrance materials when creating future rules that will affect the diversity and use of natural and synthetic fragrances and the value chain from farmers to consumer goods producers. Additionally, IFRA underscores the contribution of scents in final consumer products. IFRA’s policy recommendations include using the association’s global safe use program, the IFRA Standards and its Sustainability Charter.

Future of fragrance development
Moreover, IFRA spotlights the industry’s role and value within Europe for successful green transitions.They include a research agenda; investment in innovative and environmentally sustainable chemistry; greater policy consistency and regulatory predictability; a renewed focus on using alternatives to animal testing for safety assessments; and working to promote global functioning markets.

“To reach the goal of greater sustainability and jointly create the Transition Pathway, we must build on practices proven as efficient and successful, examine megatrends, identify opportunities for Europe, and beware of unintended consequences,” says Gliewe. 

“This process demands predictability, prioritization, and proportionate rules that take proper account of the social, economic, and cultural context in which we live and in which products are used.” 

Last month, IFRA flagged that the fragrance industry is facing a critical juncture as the European Green Deal’s CSS requires substituting chemicals and reformulating products. It highlights that this may pose an annual €2 billion (US$2.1 billion) industry loss.

In related regulatory restrictions, the EU recently revised the Classification, Labeling and Packaging of Substances and Mixtures, which outlines the use of chemicals, 12 relevant for cosmetics use and six classified as carcinogenicity, mutagenicity and reproductive toxicity.

By Venya Patel