In-cosmetics Global 2025 live: IOI Oleochemical presents multifunctional film-former for beauty products

At In-cosmetics Global 2025 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, IOI Oleochemical (IOI Oleo) is launching Softisan 650, a vegan multifunctional film-former for cosmetic applications that is water-resistant, moisturizing, long-lasting, and barrier-protecting. The film has been selected for the innovation award of functional ingredients at the trade show.

IOI Oleo company specializes in natural esters — natural fatty acids formed when organic acids come in contact with glycerin or alcohol — which are naturally found in the skin. 

On the show floor, Personal Care Insights speaks with Julien Janson, business director for personal care at IOI Oleo, about the product’s future, and its importance to the industry.

“What is interesting is that this ingredient has been developed but [it] comes from a legacy of ingredients. IOI Oleo has been a specialist in natural film formers since the 70s, and we have one ingredient that is a pure legacy to the world of cosmetics: the Softisan 649,” details Janson.

“We could see that there are new needs in the market, especially for fully natural solutions.”

The need to go natural

Janson explains that consumer demand for specific category varies across regions and observes that Asia seeks slightly lighter sensory products compared to other continents. “When making a film, it needs not to be ‘sticky’ — which this ingredient addresses,” he says.

Jansen elaborates why the solution is superior to competing products, saying the company has been “overtesting” it.

“You will find many things that allow [you] to make claims for customers. For instance, we have long-lasting 24 hours for makeup, where we check [if] the color change [is] due the film format or not.”

Julien Janson, business director for personal care at IOI Oleo.Jansen explains that this is something that can be introduced to any formula, allowing the consumer to enjoy the benefits of a film format without inconvenience.

In terms of market trends, the category of film former is vast. He highlights sun care due to its properties of being water resistant, makeup, and skin care. 

Looking forward

Softisan 650 and its technology are patented, originating from a big series of former patents. 

“We have 22 patents since 2018, and we have had a lot of patents especially on a particular way to produce esters. So the pipeline is full until at least the next five years,” says Jansen.

He details that last year’s launch came from the same technology, which allowed the company to create the first polymorphic-free ingredients for natural origins, “which addresses the problem of formula blooming.”

These ingredients will be used in sun care, skin care, color care, toiletries, deodorants, shaving, and other personal care products. 

The film-former also has a wide formulation technique, such as powder, oil-in-water, water-in-oil emulsion, and anhydrous (products created without water). IOI Oleo says the product’s sensorial benefits are fast-absorbing, light feeling on the skin, non-sticky, and non-oily.

With live reporting by Joshua Poole at In-cosmetics Global 2025