Kao on key makeup trends and why Asian consumers combine mental, physical health to achieve beauty goals

30 May 2024 --- As the beauty industry worldwide continues to seek inspiration from Asia, Personal Care Insights talks to Yayoi Inoue, director of the Kao Beauty Research & Creation Center, about the quest to combine mental and physical practices to boost beauty and health goals. We also discuss essential makeup and tech trends influencing consumers in this lucrative region. 

Why is it crucial for Asian beauty consumers to incorporate holistic health initiatives into their beauty routine?
Inoue: The idea that physical and mental health are essential to achieving beauty is deeply rooted in Asian philosophies and healing practices. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, people are becoming increasingly aware of the importance of their health and inner well-being. As a result, a brand’s values are now conveyed through cosmetics and experiential content such as food, sleep, meditation and exercise. Kao launched Athletia, a holistic brand, in 2020. Based on the concept of “Balance your active/relaxing cycle,” the award-winning products use botanicals sourced from sustainable farms and environmentally conscious packaging.

How do you see AI disrupting the beauty industry in Asia?
Inoue: The Asian beauty industry is experiencing significant changes due to AI’s evolution. The impact is visible in many aspects, including improving the customer experience, innovating product development and enhancing marketing strategies. The number of AI-based skin care apps and beauty devices is increasing, offering individually tailored products and services based on customers’ skin conditions and needs.

Various companies are deploying similar AI applications, which necessitates improving accuracy, precision and usability. Additionally, it is essential to analyze diverse skin factors and propose better services based on such analysis.

Yayoi Inoue of Kao says one of the makeup trends for spring in Japan, Korea, China and Thailand is “fruit makeup” that evokes a juicy, fresh fruit look.Two years ago, Kao launched its skin measurement tool “Hada Reco” within its digital platform in Japan (Hada is the Japanese word for skin). The service allows users to take a facial image from their smartphone and measure scores for 13 indicators, including skin age, smoothness, transparency, prominence of lines and firmness. Based on the results, it also provides advice on how to care for the skin.

Kate, the leading makeup brand in Japan, installed a multiverse-type makeup simulator, “Kate Multiverse Hole,” in the Shibuya Dogenzaka Flag, a four-story flagship store by the Matsumotokiyoshi drugstore chain located in one of Tokyo’s foremost shopping and entertainment neighborhoods. This AI-based makeup simulator invites the customer to enter a parallel world and encounter oneself in three different makeup looks based on the analysis of facial parts ratio and skin color.

How have makeup needs and desires changed since the pandemic?
Inoue: With the rise of COVID-19, people have become more conscious of skin care, but makeup use, especially lipstick, blush and foundation, sharply declined due to the inability to go outside. However, even during the pandemic, Kanebo Kate’s Lip Monster gained popularity because it doesn’t stick to face masks and has good coloration with exciting color names.

It has been observed that Japanese makeup has mainly focused on the eyes since the 1990s, whereas in Korea, Taiwan and Mainland China, more attention has been given to the lips. Interestingly, the restrictions on wearing lipsticks during the pandemic seem to have spurred the revival of lip makeup in Japan in the post-COVID era.

One of the makeup trends for spring in Japan, Korea, China and Thailand is “fruit makeup” that evokes a juicy, fresh fruit look. In particular, lip makeup that gives lips a moist, blood-colored, glossy, voluptuous look (“fig makeup”) is becoming a trend. During the pandemic, face masks became necessary, resulting in an increased emphasis on eye makeup. However, since masks were lifted, there was a pronounced shift toward more focus on the mouth. Lip makeup is currently characterized by a thick, glossy, deep red lip color that fills in any vertical wrinkles and gives a full and plump appearance to the lips.“Mute makeup,” a Korean trend, uses items of the same color with a natural but ennui atmosphere to create a tone-on-tone look.

In our first interview, you emphasized that Asian consumers look to neighbors in the region for inspiration rather than Western trends. How have social media and word of mouth influenced the Asian beauty market?
Inoue: Korean, Japanese, Chinese and Thai cosmetics are gaining popularity, and women across the region are adopting makeup trends from Korea and China. “Plain water makeup” is a Chinese style that uses mainly neutral colors with low saturation to create a natural look. “Mute makeup,” a Korean trend, uses items of the same color with a natural but ennui atmosphere to create a tone-on-tone look. Another popular Korean trend is “Neutro makeup,” which combines new and retro elements to create an emotional atmosphere while adding a fresh touch to the retro impression of the 90s. These trends are particularly popular among the younger generation.

Y2K makeup gained a lot of popularity on social media, and now the attention is shifting toward Y3K makeup. This futuristic style incorporates glitter, stones, metallic colors and lines that are reminiscent of the year 3000. Initially, Y3K makeup became trendy in China and has now made its way to Korea, where it has attracted the attention of the younger generation, particularly among Korean artists.

By Anita Sharma