Menthol, vanillin and eucalyptus flagged among 56 potential fragrance allergens in EU regulation

02 Aug 2023 --- The European Commission (EC) has published Regulation 2023/1545, which pinpoints fragrance allergens that affect humans, which were previously not subject to individual labeling requirements. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) adopted this opinion in response to the EC’s request for updated safety guidance.

The 56 newly flagged substances are widely used in perfumes and other scented cosmetic products, but also in products such as detergents, fabric softeners and other household products.

The list includes popular ingredients such as camphor, menthol, vanillin, rose flower oil, eucalyptus globulus oil and jasmine oil.

Cosmeservice, an advisory organization on European cosmetic safety and regulation, responded to the news with a statement underscoring the importance of giving businesses enough time to adjust to the new guidance.

“There are numerous changes and adaptations that the cosmetics industry must face continuously to adjust to the standards and regulations set in Europe and around the world,” states Cosmeservice.

“With regard to the new restrictions, cosmetic companies and manufacturers should be allowed a reasonable period of time to adapt to them by making adjustments to product formulations and containers, ensuring that only cosmetic products complying with the new requirements are placed on the market.”

The list of flagged allergens includes popular ingredients such as camphor, menthol, vanillin, rose flower oil, eucalyptus globulus oil and jasmine oil.Beauty brands will have to adapt the labels to the new requirements in three years for new cosmetic products to enter the EU market, until July 31, 2026. 

For cosmetic products that are already on the EU market, brands have until 31 July 2028.

Allergen watch
In other recent developments pertaining to allergens in fragrances and cosmetics, Columbia University Irving Medical Center researchers analyzed factors surrounding the allergenicity of lanolin – a popular emollient and moisturizer used in cosmetics – to determine how common its allergy is in the general population and identify the appropriate screening methods.

While the researchers described lanolin as a “weak sensitizer” in their study, they identified special populations for which the concern for lanolin allergy may be greater.

Last April, the European Chemicals Agency flagged the allergenicity of glutaral – used in washing and cleaning products – which it warns could be “fatal if inhaled, toxic if swallowed and may cause severe skin burns and eye damage.”

In February, a Japanese study found that 4.3% of children’s skincare products on Amazon contain eight allergens that are required to be labeled when used in food products. The researchers highlight that when these formulas are applied topically, they can increase the risk of food allergies.

By Benjamin Ferrer