Study predicts metal oxide powders will “shape the future of cosmetics”

A study has found metal oxide powders, key ingredients in cosmetic formulations such as sunscreens and pigment enhancers, to be multifunctional due to their stability, biocompatibility, and tunable optical properties. As the industry moves to greener chemistry, the findings show that the powders can help companies create high-performance products with minimal environmental impact.

Advanced metal oxide powders such as alumina, iron oxide, zinc oxide, silica, titania, and others have emerged as innovative and versatile ingredients in the industry. Suitable for sunscreens, makeup, skin care, hair care, and dental care, they allow aesthetic aspects of products and functionality.  

The researchers argue that using metal oxide powders aligns with current market trends, such as eco-friendly and multifunctional beauty, as they are natural, mineral-based ingredients, and hold the potential to tap into this emerging consumer demand. 

Beauty emerged into science

Published in Open Ceramics, the study says cosmetics emerged from aesthetics to a scientific field in the late 1980s.

“Cosmetic science involves a multidisciplinary approach to profoundly impact human health and beauty. This multidisciplinary field incorporates a range of disciplines, including chemistry, biology, pharmacology, dermatology, and engineering,” reads the study.

The study says cosmetics emerged from aesthetics to a scientific field in the late 1980s.The study explains how the different powders can be applied to cosmetics. It starts with aluminium oxide (or alumina), which is commonly found in exfoliating skin care, antiperspirants, lipsticks, toothpaste, nail products, and under-eye makeup. It provides gentle exfoliation, polishes teeth, and absorbs oil. 

Cerium dioxide (or nanoceria) is an emerging sunscreen ingredient due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, and wound-healing properties. The study says it also has potential for anti-aging. 

Iron oxides are mainly used in color cosmetics due to their pigmentation capabilities. Commonly formulated in foundations, powders, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, and tinted sunscreens, they may also protect the skin from blue light when combined with zinc oxide.

UV-protecting properties

The scientists explain that zinc oxide effectively protects against UVA and UVB exposure. It is gentle on the skin and reduces irritation. It is used in a broad spectrum of sunscreens, skin care products, and hygiene products. 

Another common sunscreen ingredient is silicon dioxide, which encapsulates UV filters for better photostability. It is also popular in hair, toothpaste, lip gloss, skin care products, and emulsions. Its benefits include improving texture, shine control, and viscosity. 

Lastly, titanium dioxide is used in sunscreens, foundations, powders, and creams. This powder is a potent UVB blocker, adds coverage, and has “high stability.” However, there have been debates on its genotoxicity, and modifications such as coatings or dopings are required to minimize environmental risk. 

Calling for future research

The study also highlights current trends for each powder.

The scientists say zinc oxide effectively protects against UVA and UVB exposure.“For personalized beauty solutions, using smart materials: Advanced metal oxide powders such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can be engineered at the nanoscale or microscale to respond to UV exposure or pH changes, enabling dynamic protection or visual effects based on skin conditions,” the study explains. 

Meanwhile, iron oxide nanoparticles are being explored for their magnetic and conductive properties. 

“These allow integration into wearable and skin-adherent sensors that monitor hydration, oxidative stress, or sebum levels. These powders can be embedded in flexible substrates for real-time skin diagnostics,” the authors argue.

However, the study also points out health and environmental concerns regarding these powers, such as skin irritability, genotoxicity, and a potential environmental impact. The researchers note that sustainable manufacturing and future research are required to mitigate these risks.