Microbiome-friendly advances: New launches in oral care, acne treatment and face cleansing

03 Jul 2023 --- The body’s diverse microbiome – whose health functions are increasingly coming to light in consumer awareness – have cemented their standing as a key target area for personal care and beauty product development. Not limited to the skin microbiome targeted by soaps and lotions, new launches this year have expanded in oral care, which is shifting away from the historical sentiment that all bacteria is “bad.”

Personal Care Insights examines some of the latest sector research and product launches targeting microbiome health in this report.

According to Innova Market Insights, Europe currently leads in global microbiome-friendly ingredients and claims in personal care launches, at a significant 65%. The region is followed by North America (16%), Asia (11%), Latin America (3%), Australasia (3%) and Middle East/Africa (2%).

Lumineux specializes in microbiome-friendly oral care solutions (Image credit: Lumineux).According to the market researcher, the Skin Care category comprised 58% of global personal care launches tracked with “microbiome-friendly” ingredients in 2021. This was followed by the Hand, Bath and Shower category (21%), Hair Care (6%), Body Care (5%) and Deodorants (3%).

“We are surrounded by foreign bacteria and viruses every single day. This system acts as a barrier, helping to protect us from bad microorganisms taking hold and multiplying enough to cause illness,” comments Dr. Kourosh Maddahi, founder and CEO of microbiome-friendly toothpaste brand Lumineux.

“When the microbiome is consistently compromised, long-term health problems like chronic allergies or autoimmune disease can result.”

Intricate living micro-ecosystems
The microbiome is a complex network of microorganisms that includes bacteria, viruses and fungi. The category of microbiome-friendly personal care and beauty ingredients is still relatively new, with Innova Market Insights data revealing that 11% of global consumers agree with the statement: “I prefer probiotics/prebiotics in my body and skin care products.”

“Microbiomes can be found in your gut, ears, eyes, nose, birth canal, on your skin and, of course, in your mouth,” says Maddahi. “This network is responsible for many vital functions, including vitamin, enzyme and serotonin production and, in your mouth, is your body’s first line of defense against infection and disease.”

Maddahi is asked about the benefit of Lumineux’s microbiome-friendly toothpaste and if commonly marketed toothpaste is generally intended to be antibacterial.

“I would say the intention of being antibacterial is the wrong one,” he responds. “Over 98% of bacteria in and on your body is good bacteria that we need in order to maintain good health. Wiping them out indiscriminately – as antibacterial products do – does more harm than good.”

“Instead, we use ingredients like Dead Sea salt to target the toxins of bacteria, without killing them, to promote balance and help improve long-term oral health.”

Potentially harmful toothpaste substances
Lumineux endorses a shift away from hydrogen peroxide, fluoride or alcohol in toothpaste formulations. In addition, Dr. Maddahi adds sodium lauryl sulfate, propylene glycol and triclosan to the list. 

Indeed Labs developed a gentle acne treatment that restores the microbiome while specifically targeting acne-causing bacteria (Image credit: Indeed Labs).Sodium lauryl sulfate is a foaming agent that is responsible for the great foam consumers love in their toothpaste, but it is also an irritant. 

“Propylene glycol is used to improve a products shelf-life and texture, but in large quantities, it has been linked to damage of the central nervous system, liver and heart,” he notes.

Triclosan is another ingredient Dr. Maddahi flags. “It is added to toothpaste to prevent bacterial contamination but according to the US FDA, a study conducted found a decrease in some thyroid hormones.

“All these ingredients listed can damage the oral microbiome,” comments Dr. Maddahi. “I look for ingredients that give the benefits many of these ingredients are heralded for, without doing damage to our mouth’s natural ecosystem.”

“For instance, coconut oil is a natural whitener. When combined in the right amounts with other healthful ingredients it can help hydrate and balance while providing gold-standard whitening results in clinical testing.”

Dr. Maddahi believes the demand for microbiome-friendly oral care products is “starting to grow,” but concedes that many consumers are still unaware of exactly what the microbiome is and how important it is to maintain good health. 

“The market has a long way to go in providing products that are non-toxic and microbiome safe currently.”

Microbiome-friendly shower time
According to Innova Market Insights data, Shower Products was the leading category among all microbiome-friendly bathroom product launches (85.5%) in 2021. It was significantly distanced from Bath Products (7.3%), Hand Soap & Sanitizers (6.1%) and Soap Bars (1.2%).

Nearly three in four microbiome-friendly hand, bath and shower launches come from Europe (73%), according to the market analysis. This region was followed by North America (17%), Asia-Pacific (8%) and Latin America (2%).

Among relevant new releases this year, Italian skin care brand Furtuna Skin unveiled a new Cleansing Oil Balm, “combining old-world methods with modern science.”

The olive-based product is designed to offer the makeup-removing functions of a face wash with the moisture renewal effect of face oil, “creating equilibrium across all skin types.” It cleans without stripping, ensuring the microbiome remains intact and dryness is improved.

Furtuna Skin unveiled a new Cleansing Oil Balm that cleans without stripping the skin microbiome (Image credit: Furtuna Skin).The product’s Triple Texture Technology allows the rich balm to melt into a luxe oil on contact with the skin that transforms into a milky lather once activated by water. The transformation into a lighter texture enables the formula to rinse clean without leaving any residue or a tight, uncomfortable feeling.

“As an olive oil sommelier with Mediterranean roots, I’m continually exploring how to incorporate extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO) into everything, so I’m thrilled we were able to make huge technological strides and infuse nutrient-rich olive leaf water into an olive oil balm so our customers can reap the benefits of EVOO from the very first step in their skin care routine,” says Agatha Relota Luczo, founder and CEO of Furtuna Skin.

Gentle acne treatment
Among other launches, Indeed Labs unveiled pH-In (pronounced “fin”), a pH-balancing acne system that combats blemishes in a healthy way. It is applied in three steps in a gentle acne treatment that restores the microbiome while specifically targeting acne-causing bacteria.

Traditional acne treatments blast skin with harsh ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, temporarily controlling a breakout but potentially damaging your skin in the long run, highlights the company. 

The pH-In solution combats blemishes differently with ingredients that “balance skin, not blast it, in formulas that work smarter, not harsher,” as the brand details. 

The three-step system includes The Cleanser, The Moisture Treatment and The Mask. In step one, The Cleanser deep cleans pores while protecting skin’s microbiome diversity. Formulated with an amino acid complex, it clears away debris while protecting skin microbiome diversity. 

In the second step, The Moisture Treatment targets and weakens acne-causing bacteria. It reduces the oil that acne bacteria feed on, weakens the bacteria’s outer shield and fights the acne bacteria inside. This targeted approach keeps good bacteria intact and protects skin’s moisture barrier. 

In the third and final step, The Mask provides vital calming and soothing benefits to irritated skin. Overnight, it works to reduce redness, irritation and dryness. At the same time, it controls excess oil production to reduce future breakouts.

“We believe that there is no such thing as problem skin, only problem products,” says Dimitra Davidson, president and COO at pH-In. “When it comes to acne, overkill has been the name of the game for years; the harshest ingredients are used to treat the smallest pimple, resulting in a vicious cycle of skin suffering. pH-In was designed to combat blemishes while improving the overall health of your skin.”

By Benjamin Ferrer