Mycocosmetic era: Shroom boom in skincare and cosmetics introduces new fungi applications

30 Jan 2023 --- Fungi-based ingredients have proliferated across a swathe of beauty formulations and are considered a prominent skincare trend for this year. The broad adaptability of mushroom extracts is bringing life to new applications, including fresh cosmetic colors to offset dependence on non-renewable colorants. This is propelling forward a new category for the industry – “mycocosmetics.”

Among innovators making headlines this year, Jesse Adler is a self-proclaimed “mycological alchemist” who leveraged her background in chemistry and biomolecular science to develop a method of extracting pigments from fungi – including mushrooms, lichen, yeast and mold – that can be used as a renewable replacement for industrially produced dyes.

In theory, these colorants can be applied to almost any substance. However, to illustrate their effectiveness and scope, Adler focused on using them creating make-up pigments in her and for her recent graduation project at Central Saint Martins in London, the UK.

Pigments from fungi – including mushrooms, lichen, yeast and mold – can be used as a renewable replacement for industrially produced dyes (Image credit: Tom Mannion).She collaborated with a cosmetic formulation chemist to bring the colors to life through beauty products. The resulting lipsticks, eyeshadows and tinted skin creams are the initial prototype versions of what may someday become commercialized products.

“Color is a vital feature of life and as such, humans have been on a quest to harness the boldest and brightest colors for thousands of years, originally creating pigments from natural materials – such as clay and ash – until the discovery of synthetic colorants in the mid-19th century redefined our relationship with colorants,” says Adler.

Renewable hues
The advent of synthetic colorants signaled a new wave of colorful possibilities, with hues and performance characteristics going well beyond that of colorants from plants, animals and minerals. 

“However, synthetic colorants are made from fossil fuels (a non-renewable resource) and some have been found to have harmful effects on both humans (as carcinogens) and the planet (as pollutants). Growing awareness of these issues has increased the global demand for alternative renewable sources of color in the food, cosmetic and textile sectors,” flags Adler.

Fungi are an underexplored source of sustainable colorants that are non-toxic, biodegradable, light-fast and some even have cosmeceutical benefits, such as antioxidant and UV protection. 

The study of fungi – mycology – is a relatively new field. It is estimated that scientists have only discovered about 1% of the fungi on Earth, yet within that 1% Adler highlights a “wealth of research” into the potential applications and industrial importance of pigments extracted from fungi.

To further her research, Adler visited Oaxaca, Mexico after her graduation to study pigmenting fungi. In her upcoming plans, she will be starting a five-month fellowship in the Netherlands at Maastricht’s Jan van Eyck Academie in collaboration with Central Saint Martins to develop an oil paint from one of the deep brown pigments she previously used to make sunscreen.

She will also be continuing to work at Central Saint Martins on a species of mold that produces food-safe and medicinal pigments.

Mushroom renaissance in skincare
While undergoing somewhat of a cultural renaissance in the beauty industry, mushrooms for skin health aren’t a new discovery. Ganoderma lucidum, an oriental fungus with a long-history of medicinal use in China and Japan, has been used in anti-aging skincare products since the 1980s, starting with the Japanese brand Menard.

In the early 2000s, mushrooms hit the Western market for skincare applications (Image credit: Tom Mannion).In the early 2000s, mushrooms hit the Western market for skincare applications. Advances in fields such as nanotechnology are also driving innovations in mushroom nutraceutical science and products.

Mushrooms are a rich source of hydroxycinnamic acid (HCA). HCA has the potential to regulate inflammatory skin disorders, as well as atopic dermatitis and photocarcinogenesis, according to some studies. In addition to corticosteroids, they are applied as alternative natural additives in cosmeceutical formulations.

Taofiq et al. summarized some of the most interesting anti-inflammatory studies, both in vivo and in vitro, regarding HCAs and derivatives such as ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, caffeic acid and its phenethyl, butyl and octyl esters, as well as rosmarinic and chlorogenic acid. 

Another one of the clinical studies on HCAs was provided by Lee et al. They evaluated the potential of rosmarinic acid-based emulsions in twenty individuals between the ages of five and 28 years to reduce the severity of atopic dermatitis. Application of the twice a day, for eight weeks, led to the improvement of the disease, from erythema and dryness to other common symptoms of atopic dermatitis.

Shroom-based skincare launches
Among recent launches tracked with mushroom ingredients, Shroom Skincare has debuted its first product, Mycelium Glow Brightening Serum. This oil serum combines the utility of mushrooms and vitamin C to rejuvenate skin, even tone and moisturize.

The brand combines trending mushroom extracts – maitake, chaga, reishi and cordyceps – together with vitamin C to create an antioxidant serum that provides a range of benefits for the skin.

Mycelium Glow Brightening Serum (Credit: Shroom Skincare).“Combining these ingredients in a skincare product provides a range of benefits for the skin, including protection from environmental damage, reduction of inflammation, support for the skin’s natural defenses and improvement in the appearance of aging and uneven skin tone,” comments Dr. Jennifer Chwalek, a board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon at UnionDerm.

Among Shroom Skincare’s starring mushroom ingredients, maitake extract offers anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that protect the skin, improve elasticity, reduce redness and prevent inflammation.

Reishi mushroom extract supports hydration and visibly healthy skin. It contains beta-glucans, which can help to calm dry, itchy skin. 

Chaga mushroom extract in the formula is said to protect the skin while helping cells repair, in addition to reducing inflammation. Chaga mushrooms have unique super antioxidants that can protect cells from free radicals, Shroom Skincare highlights.

Meanwhile, cordyceps extract is said to support a balanced, even skin tone and helps prevent the breakdown of collagen, which is vital for giving elasticity to the skin.

In other mushroom NPD spotlighted recently on PersonalCareInsights, bioactive films containing lemongrass essential oil made from chitosan – a bioactive material sourced from fungi cell walls – showed promise as antioxidant and antimicrobial skin masks.

Additionally, Symrise’s mushroom-based ingredient, Symhair Thermo, was found to protect hair from heat damage during styling. The award-winning ingredient draws upon traditional Chinese medicine knowledge.

By Benjamin Ferrer