Shiseido’s “world-first” 3D facial skin measurement system reveals translucency decreases with age
05 Jan 2023 --- In collaboration with the Norwegian University of Science and Technology, Shiseido has developed a measurement system that employs a non-invasive approach to visually and numerically analyze the three-dimensional (3D) facial shape and optical properties of the skin to understand the factors involved with changes in skin appearance.
“With this system, we measured the facial skin of more than 1,000 people, analyzing subsurface scattering light, which is an important factor for skin translucency,” shares Shiseido.
“As a result, it was revealed that the subsurface scattering light decreases with age and is associated with five factors, including melanin level and the condition of the stratum corneum.”
The Japanese beauty leader explains that when light from an external source hits the skin, part of the light is reflected by the skin’s surface (surface reflection light), and the remainder penetrates the skin (diffuse reflection light). As the skin is translucent, light spreads inside the skin, and then the light exits the skin from points other than the initial point of contact (subsurface scattering light).
“The surface reflection light, diffuse reflection light and subsurface scattering light plays an important role in skin appearance, and our previous research has shown that subsurface scattering light is particularly important for translucent skin,” Shiseido elucidates.
NPD application
In this study, Shiseido measured the entire facial skin for subsurface scattering light and the skin components of women participants aged between 20 to 70.
Melanin levels, stratum corneum status, skin moisture level, collagen status and skin texture were discovered to be the main factors affecting subsurface scattering light, thus affecting appearance.
The optical properties of the skin depend on the light that follows various pathways, such as the light that reflects on the skin’s surface and enters and exits the skin. This measurement tool can evaluate those properties and apply those learnings in dermatology and cosmetology.
“This time, we performed non-invasive procedures to measure the conditions of the skin surface to deeper skin layers and verified which factors affect the skin appearance by applying the latest optical research and image-processing technologies,” the J-beauty giant says.
“Going forward, we will continue to take on the challenge of grasping skin appearance more objectively by utilizing and evolving technologies, such as color science and optics, which have recently been attracting attention in the digital field, as we did in this research.”
Furthering skin science
In November last year, Shiseido created a lip care method using findings from its lip stratum corneum examination. The company discovered – in addition to the dermatological and skincare viewpoints – that mucosa is crucial for lip care.
“We investigated raw materials with mucosal properties that can be used to care for the lips. As a result, we recently discovered that hyaluronic acid, a component with a high skin moisture retention effect, affects the mucosal barrier function,” the researchers said.
Additionally, in October, the company’s research revealed that capillaries play an essential role in the epidermis regeneration. It found that Netrin-1, a protein released from the epidermis, “increases abnormally” with aging and repels the Netrin-1 receptor (at the top of the capillary loop) – causing distances between the capillaries and the epidermis.
The distancing is explained to inhibit the pericyte migration from the capillaries in aging skin, thereby reducing the supply of epidermal stem cells. As a solution, the company found that yuzu fruit extract suppresses the expression of Netrin-1.
Shiseido conducted the 3D facial subsurface light measurement research under the Science/Creativity approach of its R&D philosophy “Dynamic Harmony,” which aims to respond quickly and flexibly to changes in the social environment and consumer needs.
Edited by Radhika Sikaria
