Shiseido unveils mucosa analysis and hyaluronic acid as essential for lip care

10 Nov 2022 --- Shiseido is creating a lip care method using findings from its lip stratum corneum examination. The company discovered – in addition to the dermatological and skincare viewpoints – a care approach from the standpoint of the mucosa, which extends continuously from the lips, is crucial for lip care.

The study found that maintaining lip mucosa health is essential for preserving lip health.

Hyaluronic acid was also found to be a component that strengthens the barrier function of the lips, preserving and enhancing the lip mucosa’s healthy state. It is anticipated that adding this substance (hyaluronic acid) will improve the barrier function of the lips, making them less prone to chapping and assisting in moisture retention.

Lips have both mucosal and general skin qualities. The researchers added that during the study, they discovered lips have “mucosal” properties that differ from those of the skin in terms of proteins in the lip stratum corneum and its microbiome.

“We investigated raw materials with mucosal properties that can be used to care for the lips. As a result, we recently discovered that hyaluronic acid, a component with a high skin moisture retention effect, affects the mucosal barrier function,” the researchers say.

By applying hyaluronic acid to the lower lip, which has mucosal properties, it is expected that the barrier function of the lips will be improved and moist lips less susceptible to chapping will be maintained.

Analyzing the stratum corneum
The researchers removed the stratum corneum from the cheeks and lower lips and thoroughly examined the stratum corneum’s proteins using proteome analysis. 

Hyaluronic acid improves the lip stratum corneum’s barrier function (Credit: Shiseido).A total of 500 different protein types were found. The stratum corneum of the cheeks and lower lips have considerably different protein compositions and accumulations based on a principal component analysis of these proteins.

Notably, the stratum corneum of the lips included more mucosal keratin – a protein that is abundantly found in the oral cavity mucosa–than the cheeks’ stratum corneum.

As a next step, oral mucosa, lower lip and cheek microbiome samples were obtained and the bacteria present in each area were thoroughly examined using microbiome analysis.

More than 4,000 different forms of DNA generated from bacteria were found. The researchers add that the microbiome of the lower lip is more comparable to that of the mucous membrane than that of the cheek, according to a principal coordinate analysis based on similarities across the microbiome samples. 

Lip care based on research
Lips have a thinner stratum corneum and do not readily form sebum membranes, distinguishing them from skin features. As a result, their barrier function is severely compromised, and customers describe this body part as troublesome, with a “tendency to become dry easily” and “susceptibility to chapping.” 

In contrast to skin studies, research on the lips has not advanced as much in cosmetics. In particular, less is known about the proteins and the microbiome of the stratum corneum of the lips. 

The study found that maintaining lip mucosa health is essential for preserving lip health. As a result, Shiseido utilized thorough analysis techniques, such as proteome analysis and microbiome analysis, to better clarify the characteristics of the lips.

The findings of proteome analysis and microbiome analysis showed that, from the views of both lower lip proteins and microbiome, the lower lip has the characteristics of the mucosa that is present near the lips. 

“To achieve our aim of ‘Beauty Innovations For A Better World,’ we will advance our research to provide appropriate solutions for each part of the body, as well as create more innovative values based on cutting-edge research knowledge,” concludes the company. 

Shiseido research developments
In related news, Shiseido’s research revealed that the capillaries play an essential role in epidermis regeneration, even when the two are not attached. This is supported by its “world’s first” discovery that pericytes – cells on the outer side of dermal capillaries – may promote epidermal regeneration by moving to the epidermis and transforming into epidermal stem-like cells.

Moreover, the company zoomed in on epidermal cells, finding that magnesium ion (Mg2+) promotes the production of hyaluronic acid. Simultaneously, it was uncovered that Mg2+ induces “spermidine synthesis,” an antioxidant activity that reduces damage caused by UV rays and oxidative stress.

Edited by Nicole Kerr

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