Unilever study links skin microbiome to premature aging and appearance

A Unilever study has found a link between the skin microbiome and how old we look. Offering a solution, the company says retinyl propionate can improve premature aging and influence the skin microbiome.  

“This is the first time scientists have shown that the skin microbiome could be linked to how old we appear, even among people of the same age,” Jason Harcup, chief R&D officer for Beauty & Wellbeing at Unilever, tells Personal Care Insights.  

“What’s particularly exciting is that we saw those with visibly younger skin had a more stable and resilient microbial community, while those who looked older had a more fragile one.”

Microbiome changes

The scientists, from Unilever’s R&D teams in China, India, and the US, investigated the microbiome features of healthy adult women between 40 and 50 years old, distinguishing them between premature and delayed aging groups.

The premature aging group received a skin care product containing retinyl propionate to use twice daily for four weeks. At baseline, the researchers measured skin brightness, elasticity, hydration, and barrier functions. After the participants used the product, the researchers ran another test.

The study claims topical use of the marketed skin care product could improve the age-related skin physiology.They also collected facial microbiome samples using a cup scrub technique on the upper cheeks. 

“We found that using a retinyl propionate product not only improved visible signs of skin aging but shifted the microbiome toward a profile more like that of younger-looking individuals,” says Harcup.

“This opens up a whole new way of thinking about the role of the microbiome in skin health and aging — particularly how we might develop future anti-aging skin care that strengthens and supports the skin’s microbial network.”

The study, published in the British Journal of Dermatology, reports changes in the skin microbiome between the two participant groups. The microbial community network was found to be more fragile and less resilient in the premature aging group compared to the delayed.

Accelerated aging

Unilever’s study claims that the topical use of the marketed skin care product could improve the age-related skin physiology of premature aging while modulating the microbiome features. 

“The results show a clear shift in the skin microbiome composition and community structure toward signatures closer to the delayed agers,” reads the study. 

“Our findings unraveled the potential role of skin microbiome in accelerated aging appearance and lay the foundation for future development of microbiome-based anti-aging intervention strategy.”

The study says skin aging is a complex biological process triggered by progressive changes in the skin’s physiology.

Innova Market Insights reported 68% annual growth in microbiome-focused skin care product launches from 2018 to 2023.It distinguishes between intrinsic and extrinsic factors of aging. Intrinsic aging is associated with the chronological loss of physical functions, such as cell metabolism and hormone conditions, that affect internal organs. 

Meanwhile, extrinsic aging is exposure to environmental or lifestyle-related factors, such as smoking cigarettes, pollution, or UV radiation. Exposing the skin to these factors may lead to premature skin aging, pigmentation, accelerated wrinkles, and loss of skin tone. 

Hosting microbes

The skin’s surface hosts a community of microbes, and its diversity increases among older populations. This demographic sees higher levels of Corynebacterium and Acinetobacter, and lower Cutibacterium. The composition has been found to correlate with visible skin aging, such as wrinkles. 

A L’Oréal study published last year potentially identified microbes linked to skin aging and health signs. In contrast to previous studies linking microbial changes to chronological age, the L’Oréal study focused on the skin microbiome’s association with aging symptoms.

“By confirming a link between the microbiome and skin health, we’ve laid the groundwork for further studies that discover specific microbiome biomarkers related to skin aging and, one day, show how to modify them to generate novel and highly targeted recommendations for skin health,” said the researchers. 

Earlier this year, Innova Market Insights reported 68% annual growth in microbiome-focused skin care product launches from 2018 to 2023.