L’Oréal and UC San Diego find “groundbreaking” skin microbiome and aging link

15 Jan 2024 --- A new study has potentially identified microbes linked to skin aging and health signs. The research is carried out by the Center for Microbiome Innovation (CMI) at the University of California San Diego and L’Oréal Research and Innovation.

In contrast to previous studies that linked microbial changes to chronological age, this study focuses on the skin microbiome’s association with aging symptoms. 

CMI’s data analysis and L’Oréal’s expertise in skin health assessment were used to examine data from 13 L’Oréal studies involving over 650 female participants aged 18 to 70. Notably, the study focused on isolating microbes linked to specific aging signs rather than age as a number.

“At L’Oréal, our commitment is to create beauty products that meet the unique needs of each individual. Our recent collaboration with the Center for Microbiome Innovation has shed light on the role of the skin microbiome in aging, particularly in how it affects wrinkles and overall skin quality,” says co-author Qian Zheng, head of advanced research, North America at L’Oréal.

According to Innova Market Insights data, there is a surge in personal care launches with microbiome-friendly claims on their product packaging. Microbiome-friendly launches in personal care witnessed an 84% CAGR from April 2018 to March 2023. Nearly two out of three launches with these claims were in Europe. 

Hydration claims took the lead, followed by cruelty-free positioning, with more than half of the launches being skin care products. Glycerol was the leading ingredient in these launches.

The study explores the connection between skin microbiome diversity and crow’s feet wrinkles.Microbial trends in aging 
The analysis found two main trends:

First, crow’s feet wrinkles are a common indicator of skin aging. A positive correlation was found between skin microbiome diversity and crow’s feet wrinkles. 

The research also found a negative correlation between microbiome diversity and transepidermal water loss, implying a possible role in skin moisture retention. 

The study does not establish causation but identifies these microbial associations as potential for future research.

“Additionally, we found that taxa that correlated with high grade of Crow’s feet wrinkles (GCFW) include mainly environmental bacteria such as Kaistella and other taxa from the phylum Actinomycetes (Brevibacterium and Microbacterium),” detail the study authors.

“Overall, several of the bacteria associated with high GCFW in our study have previously been identified in the context of skin microbiome dysbiosis associated with several skin inflammatory conditions.”Se Jin Song, director of research at the Center For Microbiome Innovation At UC San Diego, is the paper’s senior author.

Toward tailored skin care
Zheng emphasizes the “groundbreaking” nature of the research in identifying new microbial biomarkers tied to visible signs of aging. 

“It marks a significant step toward developing technologies for healthier, more youthful skin. We look forward to sharing new results as they become available, furthering the scientific community’s understanding and contributing to advancing new skin care solutions,” she adds.

The research team will conduct additional metabolomics and meta-transcriptomics studies to identify chemical biomarkers and genetic targets associated with skin aging.

“While the study’s findings represent an advance of our knowledge of the skin microbiome, we view them as just the beginning of a new phase of research,” comments co-author Rob Knight, the CMI faculty director and professor of Pediatrics, Bioengineering, Computer Science & Engineering and Data Science at UC San Diego. 

“By confirming a link between the microbiome and skin health, we’ve laid the groundwork for further studies that discover specific microbiome biomarkers related to skin aging and, one day, show how to modify them to generate novel and highly targeted recommendations for skin health.”

Edited by Venya Patel