UN’s FAO spotlights “risks and opportunities” for flagship wild cosmetic plant trade

08 Sep 2022 --- The demand for wild plant ingredients has been growing at a rate of more than 75% in value over the past 20 years, according to a UN Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) report. However, with high demand comes a risk of overharvesting and habitat loss of wild plants. This is why the report assesses the risks and opportunities tied to 12 ingredients while outlining the role of industry players in responsible sourcing.

Nine of the 12 are vital ingredients used in cosmetic and beauty products outlined in the Wild check – assessing the risks and opportunities of trade in wild plant ingredients report. They include frankincense, shea, jatamansi, spikenard, candelilla wax, argan oil, brazil nut, licorice and juniper.

Growing aromatic market
The medicinal and aromatic plant species between 2000 and 2020 is at 75% trade value growth once adjusted for inflation, highlights the report. Also, there is a 22% growth in medicinal and aromatic plant species volume in global trade.

Moreover, of the 21% of medicinal and aromatic plant species assessed, 9% are threatened with extinction. Most risk assessment results are medium or high. “This shows that these ingredients must be considered in due diligence, policies and purchasing decisions,” flag the researchers.

Despite the grim assessment, the researchers say that the outlook of wild ingredients “can be bright if appropriate actions such as those suggested throughout the report are taken by various stakeholders now.”

Ethical steps for industry
Due to a lack of awareness and traceability, wild plants are often obscured from consumers and “escape companies’ due diligence.” Companies are firstly asked to investigate which wild-harvested ingredients are used in products and then invest in the traceability of the ingredients. The report flags of nearly 60,000 tree species worldwide, 10% have medicinal or aromatic use, and 30% are threatened with extinction.

Additionally, companies are advised to prioritize long-term relationships with suppliers through frequent dialogue. The interaction should determine the producer’s production capacity, local wages, fair prices per kilo, rights issues for harvesters, gender equality issues, benefit sharing within communities, representation and use of traditional knowledge.

The report also advises investigating and understanding traditional species uses and knowledge associated with processing, cultivation, harvesting and other aspects of sourcing raw materials. This can be done by engaging with Indigenous Peoples and local communities (IPLCs) to negotiate fair and equitable agreements for using their knowledge – as per ABS regulation.

If possible, companies should visit and engage with suppliers to ensure no child or forced labor, suggests the report. Moreover, companies need to ensure prices paid for materials benefit the producers and communities. They can also engage with local community groups like NGOs to encourage environmentally sustainable harvesting techniques while understanding and respecting local norms.

Responsible sourcing can be made transparent with certifications or promoting the use of wild plant ingredients using the #WeUseWild.

Body lotion base and scents
The report shares that body lotions are likely to contain shea butter, typically harvested in west Africa by women. Lotions and skincare products can also be scented with frankincense, licorice or juniper.

Frankincense olibanum is used in beauty, medicine and aromatherapy. Based on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) assessment, the ingredient is classified as “lower risk/near threatened (1998).” The top producers/exporters are Somalia, the Republic of Somaliland, Yemen and Oman. The ecological risk rating is medium, and the social risk rating is high. Opportunities lie in research, partnerships and associations, conservation and restoration and standards and certification.

Shea butter, karité, Butyrospermum parkii and vegetable fats (shea) are used in beauty and food (chocolate). Based on the IUCN assessment, the ingredient is “vulnerable (1998).” The top producers/exporters are Ghana, Burkina Faso and Cote d’Ivoire. The ecological risk rating is medium, and the social risk rating is high. Opportunities lie in standards and certification, partnerships and associations and conservation and restoration.

Licorice is used in tobacco, medicine, food and beverage, and beauty. Based on the IUCN assessment, the ingredient is “least concern (2014).” The top producers/exporters are Azerbaijan, Uzbekistan, China, Iran and Turkmenistan. The ecological risk rating is low. The social risk rating is medium in Azerbaijan, Uzbekistan and China and high in Iran and Turkmenistan. Opportunities lie in restoration standards and certification.

Juniper is used in food and beverage, beauty and medicine. Based on the IUCN assessment, the ingredient is “least concern (2019).” The top producers/exporters are Eastern and Central Europe. The ecological risk rating is medium, and the social risk rating is medium. Opportunities lie in conservation and restoration standards and certification.

Baobab and argan in spotlight
Moreover, the report highlights that various skin and hair care products contain argan oil, often harvested by indigenous female cooperatives. There is a +22% growth in medicinal and aromatic plant species volume in global trade.

Argan oil/Moroccan oil is used in beauty, medicine and food. Based on the IUCN assessment, the ingredient is “vulnerable (2021).” The top producer/exporter is Morocco. The ecological risk rating is medium, and the social risk rating is high. Opportunities lie in conservation and restoration, access and benefit sharing (ABS), partnerships and associations and standards and certification.

Additionally, the report says that skincare can also contain baobab oil.

Baobab is used in food and beverage and beauty. Based on the IUCN assessment, the ingredient is “not assessed.” The top producers/exporters are South Africa, Ghana, Senegal and Zimbabwe. The ecological risk rating is medium, and the social risk rating is high. Opportunities lie in standards and certification, partnerships and associations and conservation and restoration.

Scoring jatamansi, E902 and brazil nuts
Jatamansi is flagged as “critically endangered” harvested by high-altitude communities in the Himalayas. Its roots are used in traditional medicine like Ayurveda, Unani and Chinese systems. The herb offers antibacterial and antifungal properties.

Jatamansi, spikenard or nard is used in medicine, aromatherapy and beauty. Based on the IUCN assessment, the ingredient is “critically endangered (2015).” The top producer/exporter is Nepal. The ecological risk rating is high, and the social risk rating is medium. Opportunities lie in standards and certification, partnerships and associations and health and safety conservation.

Furthermore, candelilla wax or E902 is noted to be an essential ingredient in cosmetics – sometimes marketed as a vegan alternative to beeswax.

Candelilla wax is used in cosmetics, food, medicine and industrial spaces. Based on the IUCN assessment, the ingredient is “not assessed.” The top producer/exporter is Mexico. The ecological risk rating is medium and the social risk rating is high. Opportunities lie in health and safety, partnerships and associations and standards and certification.

Lastly, according to the researchers, brazil nuts are primarily consumed as food but can also be processed into oil for cosmetic use.

Based on the IUCN assessment, brazil nut is “vulnerable (1998).” The top producers/exporters are Brazil, Bolivia and Peru. The ecological risk rating is medium and the social risk rating is high. Opportunities lie in standards and certification, partnerships and associations and conservation and restoration.

By Venya Patel

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