Upcycled cacao shell-derived nanocellulose stabilizes oil-in-water cosmetic emulsions, research reveals

13 Nov 2023 --- A recent study has uncovered the potential of sourcing nanocellulose from cacao shells, a byproduct of the chocolate industry, for use in formulating stable water-based emulsions for cosmetics. The researchers delved into the intricacies of this process aiming to overcome the challenges posed by its crystallization tendencies.

The study investigates the process of isolating nanocellulose from cacao shells to fine-tune its rheological properties to create a three-dimensional network with enhanced stability.

The researchers found that nanocellulose proved effective in developing cocoa butter-in-water Pickering emulsions using high-shear mixing techniques at concentrations of 0.7 and 1 wt%.

These emulsions evidenced stability for more than 15 days, showcasing the potential of cocoa shell-derived nanocellulose in cosmetic and food applications.

Moisturizing application potential
According to the researchers, the physicochemical characterization of nanocellulose from cocoa shells reveals its hydrophilic nature, making it a stabilizer for oil-in-water emulsions.

The study emphasizes the potential applications of these stable emulsions in the food and cosmetic industries, highlighting the reduction in cocoa butter content, lower production costs and enhanced nutritional value. The physicochemical characterization of nanocellulose from cocoa shells is hydrophilic, making it a stabilizer for oil-in-water emulsions.

The findings can lead to innovative products, such as nano-delivery systems and edible coatings, leveraging cocoa butter’s antioxidant and moisturizing properties.

“To the authors’ knowledge, the development of a stable cocoa butter-in-water Pickering emulsion has not been reported in the literature and is an interesting topic for the cosmetic industry, where cocoa butter is used as a moisturizer and emollient in product formulations,” they detail. 

“The formation of a stable suspension of cellulose and cocoa butter is an interesting phenomenon because oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions, where the oil droplets have at least partly crystallized but the continuous aqueous phase remains liquid, are frequently less physically stable than the same systems where the oil droplets are liquid.”

A sustainable alternative
In an era where sustainability is non-negotiable, the researchers utilize agricultural by-products like cocoa shells. With cacao shells representing a significant portion of by-products in the chocolate industry, their use adds value and reduces waste.

In a recent Special Report, Personal Care Insights spoke to International Flavors & Fragrances about its upcycled sugar beets and Kaffe Bueno’s coffee grounds for cosmetic repurposing. 

The research aligns with the global push toward sustainable sourcing, offering an alternative to traditional cellulose isolation methods, which may not be suitable in tropical regions due to potential environmental degradation.

In other recent R&D activities, leveraging its expertise in cocoa and chocolate, Cargill Beauty showcased two CocoaDesign emollients, one liquid and another solid, to boost emotional well-being.

By Venya Patel