In-cosmetics Global live: Givaudan “reimagines iconic industry molecules”
25 Apr 2024 | Givaudan Active Beauty
Personal Care Insights visits Givaudan Active Beauty’s head of Active Ingredients, Mathias Fleury, on the trade show floor of In-cosmetics Global to learn how the company is “reimagining iconic industry molecules” with an eye to sustainability. Fleury also expands on his team’s latest launches and their impact on the beauty industry. Neuroglow is said to replicate sun effects for a healthy glow, PrimalHyal 50 Life boasts sustainability with reduced environmental impact, Illuminyl 388 targets diverse skin types with pigmentation solutions and Silk-iCare is a vegan silk protein for skin repair and protection.
We are with Matthias Fleury with Gerdin Active Beauty.
Matthias, thank you for your time today at In Cosmetics.
Thank you.
It's nice to have you here.
Thank you.
You have quite a few exciting launches.
Where would you like to begin?
So we have plenty of new, amazing launches this year, so.
Basically 4 innovations and we try to reimagine iconic molecules of the industry.
So maybe I can start with what we launched a little bit earlier this year.
It's called Primal 50 Life.
It's a brand new way of producing yaluronic acid.
It's a revolution for the beauty industry.
That's what we believe.
We obtained the same yaluronic acid performance as before, but with a reduction of a tenfold of the environmental impact of our global footprint in the production.
So we did that thanks to cellular biology and strain engineering.
It's a massive change for the industry which is now able to use this.
A more competitive way and with a huge impact on the sustainability footprint, and that's key, right?
Sustainability is a huge focus.
It has been and it looks like it will continue to be in the near future.
More and more we'll explore ways to offer alternatives, I would say for the beauty industry to be able to switch from petrochemical references with a dirty footprint.
On the environment and the sustainability side and to come up with innovative biotech solutions to make that better for them.
OK, excellent.
Tell us about Neuroglow.
Neuroglow is another of our new innovations this year.
The principle is very easy.
It's basically sun in a jar.
So what we wanted to achieve was to use a botanical extract.
So it comes from the indigo plant cultivated in the south.
Of France in Provence and we want to mimic all of the benefits of the sun.
So obviously on one side the pro-pigmentation benefits like helping your skin with tanning, helping to gain phototypes, prepare your skin for tanning, but also a second axis about the -being.
You know this feeling that you have when you are under the sun, the first light at spring, when you enjoy yourself under the sun or during vacation.
And basically we have demonstrated that Neuroglow is able to boost the production of key hormones and vitamins, vitamin D, which is the key vitamin that we synthesize when we are under the sun, but also endorphins, the -being hormones, and oxytocin, which is the love hormone, the one which makes us feel connected and bonded with others.
And at the clinical level this means that not only do we tan, but we also feel better.
We decrease.
The level of tiredness, we increase the level of affection, and we solve the winter blues, you know, this feeling that we have at the end of winter where we miss the sun so much.
Basically neurog is the perfect solution for this.
OK, that sounds incredible.
Tell us about Illuminal 388.
Illuminil is basically the opposite.
We've talked about pro-pigmentation.
Illuminil is all about solving pigmentation disorders, so it's based on one of the most powerful natural and Antioxidant extracted from green tea that we augment thanks to biotech, so we perform a biocatalysis reaction to graft a glucose group to the, making it more soluble, more stable, and more efficient into the skin.
In the end, it targets all of the main stages of the pigmentation pathway.
We inhibit the melanogenesis process.
We slow down the tyrosinase activity.
And so much more together with a kind of synergistic prebiotic activity, so we basically give some food to specific bacteria on the skin so that they produce a niacin derivative which will reinforce the brightening activity.
So it's the most ambitious clinical study we ever performed.
We have more than 200 volunteers, 4 different skin types, Caucasian volunteers, Chinese volunteers, Indian volunteers, and African volunteers, and it works on all skin types in just 2 weeks and better than benchmarks of the industry such as vitamin C or arbutin.
And in that case, I would say diversity was a critical factor for you, right?
Exactly.
And intentional diversity is something that we want to push.
Strong in the coming months.
That will be one of our angles of communication and clearly the fact of being able to demonstrate that an active ingredient is working on all skin types is a key for our industry that we will more and more have to solve in the future.
Excellent, Matthias.
I'd be remiss if I didn't ask you about silk eye care.
Indeed, there is a last innovation this year which is called silk eye care.
It's a kind of hybrid between active and functional.
Basically what we did was to work on the silk proteins, one of the most inspiring materials in nature.
The problem with silk is that of course it's animal derived.
You can produce it with silkworm or spiders, but of course for the beauty industry that's a big no go.
So what we did was to come up with a biotech process to kind of mimic the silk properties.
So we get inspiration from the spider silk, which is actually the most elastic and resistant in nature.
So we were able to obtain the silk protein thanks to a fermentation process, and what we obtained in the end is a kind of self-assembling protein dispersion which acts as an invisible bandage into the skin.
So basically there is an immediate benefit just like with any type of film former making the film onto the skin, making it smoother, nicer to the touch, and solving some imperfections just like.
Pores.
We have a drastic reduction of the pores in just 15 minutes.
But on top of that, what's really nice and why I was talking about a hybrid material is that we have a biological activity due to the silk proteins interacting with some receptors into the skin.
And basically we have demonstrated that silk eye care is able to help the skin with wound healing and with soothing properties.
So it's a little bit the principle of an invisible bandage which will help your skin protect itself versus pollution and the exposure in general and repair itself in case of external aggressions.
Wow, incredible.
Final question to you.
Active beauty, it seems like it's a dynamic time for this sector.
Is that right?
Definitely.
We have seen the market grows and exploring new directions in terms of active performance.
More and more we can see that the consumers are focused on the performance, the efficacy, and they are more and more educated, I would say, about the actives that they will find in their beauty products.
So clearly our ambition is to offer to the industry.
I would say we want to be the reference in high precision beauty ingredients to imagine, to design and create iconic molecules that consumers love.
OK, Matthias Fleury, thank you so much for this.
Thanks a lot for having us.
