Gattefossé: Why actives must now deliver structure, function and well-being

The science of actives in personal care is undergoing a fundamental shift, increasingly driven by skin barrier health as the cornerstone of effective skin care. As researchers deepen their understanding of the skin–brain axis, skin care is becoming inseparable from overall well-being. The result is growing demand for actives that do more than sit on the surface, but are effective at a biological level. 

Innova Market Insights data indicates that high-performance actives are gaining momentum as consumers embrace science-led skin care. According to the market researcher’s 2026 trends, consumer curiosity is driving experimentation with advanced lab-grown ingredients and next-generation botanical actives, blending biotechnology with nature for more targeted, results-driven formulations.

Gattefossé tells Personal Care Insights how these simultaneous changes are signaling a move away from single cosmetic claims toward a next chapter of bioactives built on science-backed biological performance. The company’s approach is positioning its actives as enablers of skin resilience and holistic health rather than visible beauty.

That ambition is reshaping how innovation happens. The challenge, as Gattefossé sees it, is no longer simply to create effective actives but to design “holistic ingredients” — often inspired by biomimicry. 

Gattefossé flags Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES) as central to the next wave of cosmetic actives. NaDES are liquid solvents created by combining natural compounds that become liquid when mixed, mimicking the fluid found inside living plant cells. They allow formulators to dissolve and deliver hard-to-work-with actives while reinforcing naturality and sustainability, making the solvent itself part of the benefit rather than an inert carrier.

Myriam Abderrachid, head of global marketing Personal Care at Gattefossé, discusses where skin science is heading and what it means for the future of industry innovations. 

Skin barrier health is becoming the foundation of modern skin care.What trends are driving demand for high‑performance actives in personal care?

Abderrachid: Demand for high‑performance actives in personal care is increasingly driven by a fundamental shift toward skin barrier health as the cornerstone of skin care. Consumers are seeking ingredients that reinforce, repair, and protect the barrier rather than simply deliver short‑term cosmetic effects. 

At the same time, skin care is becoming tightly linked to overall well‑being, as scientific insights into the skin–brain axis highlight how stress, inflammation, and barrier dysfunction are interconnected, driving interest in actives that soothe, rebalance, and enhance comfort. 

Consumers are also becoming more educated and pragmatic, favoring multifunctional, high‑efficacy actives that deliver multiple benefits in simplified routines. Increased awareness of the exposome (UV, pollution, climate stress) is pushing the need for actives that help the skin adapt and recover under real‑life conditions. This is closely linked to the emergence of climate‑adaptive beauty, where formulations are designed to maintain barrier balance despite environmental fluctuations, helping the skin better resist rapid temperature changes while preserving comfort and hydration.

Which performance claims are suppliers prioritizing, and why?

Abderrachid: Gattefossé is not developing ingredients based on single cosmetic claims (hydration, softness) but rather new-generation bioactives with science-backed biological performance claims combining barrier repair (structure), hydration (function), and soothing/stress reduction (well-being). 

NaDES mimics the fluid found inside living plant cells.We prioritize claims that position actives as enablers of skin resilience and holistic health — not just visible beauty — fully aligned with current market expectations around barrier integrity and well‑being.

How are sustainability and clean label expectations influencing active ingredient development?

Abderrachid: Sustainability and clean label expectations are profoundly reshaping how active ingredients are developed, pushing the industry — including Gattefossé — toward a new balance between naturality, performance, and responsibility. Sustainability and clean label expectations are not just constraints — they are innovation drivers, pushing active development toward bio-based, traceable, high-performance, and environmentally responsible ingredients that deliver both efficacy and trust.

What challenges do suppliers face in balancing efficacy, sensory profiles, and regulatory compliance?

Abderrachid: The key challenge is no longer just to create effective actives, but to design ‘holistic ingredients’ that simultaneously deliver performance, sensorial pleasure, and compliance within increasingly strict regulatory and sustainability frameworks. This is why innovation is shifting toward: biomimicry, multifunctional systems, advanced delivery, and texture engineering.

The skin-brain axis links skin barrier function and overall well-being.What innovations/technologies are shaping the next generation of actives?

Abderrachid: NaDES represent a key innovation shaping the next generation of cosmetic actives by reconciling performance, naturality, and sustainability. Composed of naturally occurring metabolites such as sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, NaDES act as green, biocompatible solvents that can replace conventional petrochemical solvents in extraction processes. Their unique physicochemical properties enable high extraction efficiency and the ability to solubilize and stabilize both hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds, leading to richer and more potent botanical extracts.

Importantly, NaDES can preserve fragile bioactives and even enhance their biological efficacy. Overall, NaDES embodies the convergence of green chemistry and high-performance formulation, enabling the development of more effective, sustainable, and clean label actives and therefore emerging as a cornerstone technology for future cosmetic innovation.

What is a standout active from Gattefossé’s portfolio?

Abderrachid: This year, at In-cosmetics Global, we proudly celebrated our French heritage with the launch of a novel bioactive inspired by silk, Silkaress. This unique and patented ingredient mirrors the protective function of silk and responds to the current challenges of adapting to unpredictable, sometimes extreme changes in the environment. 

By activating critical signaling pathways for epidermal cohesion and vitality, Silkaress promotes skin resilience, supporting its ability to withstand shifting climatic conditions and preserve the integrity of the skin barrier. In clinical studies on Caucasian volunteers with dry and sensitive skin, Silkaress was shown to restructure the micro-relief and homogenize hydration. This translates into a silk-like protective effect and a deep feeling of comfort and well-being. Silkaress offers softer, smoother, protected skin for a wide range of applications, including climate-smart skin care, everyday outdoor defense products, cocooning, and comfort-first formulas.