Afyren and Esse Skincare to debut industry’s “first” bio-based propionic acid

Afyren and Esse Skincare have partnered up to offer fully natural cosmetics solutions, merging biotechnology, sustainability, and science-backed skin care. The partnership aims to introduce the “world’s first” bio-based propionic acid for the personal care industry.

The greentech company Afyren offers manufacturers biobased, low-carbon ingredients through a fermentation technology that is based entirely on a circular model. Meanwhile, South-African Esse Skincare specializes in microbiome skin care science.

Propionic acid is a natural short-chain fatty acid that plays a crucial role in maintaining a healthy and balanced skin microbiome. The companies say emerging research shows that it modulates inflammation and maintains a microbial balance.

To date, propionic acid has only been produced from petrochemical sources on an industrial scale. The new partnership aims to change that by offering its sustainably produced, bio-based alternative that is COSMOS certified.

The acid is made at Afyren’s flagship industrial biorefinery in Saint-Avold, France, using the company’s circular, low-carbon refinery process. Afyren says it is the “first plant in the world capable of producing a portfolio of organic acids at commercial scale.”

Nicolas Sordet, CEO of Afyren, says: ”This shows how biotechnology can unlock new opportunities for both performance and sustainability in cosmetics that bring tangible benefits to humans and the environment. We look forward to seeing the first products reach consumers.”

Biotech transforms cosmetics

The beauty industry is moving away from its reliance on direct plant harvesting, mining, or animal-derived sources, toward precise, lab-based cultivation of bioactives. Biotechnological advances this year have enabled formulators to utilize high-purity molecules, ensure consistent functionality, and mitigate seasonal supply variability.

Personal Care Insights recently spoke with Bioweg, who shared its work in replacing microplastics and harmful chemistries in beauty products with bio-based, biodegradable alternatives that perform on par with, or better than, conventional options. It innovates fermentation-derived micro-powders for sensoriality and cellulose-based rheology control.

Meanwhile, Canadian biotech company Acorn is creating targeted anti-aging skin care made from a person’s own stem cells. By utilizing the hair follicle, the company creates a personalized secretome serum that combines medicine with skin care for anti-aging solutions.

In other developments, Amphistar recently told us about how biotechnology is fundamentally transforming the beauty industry, enabling the sustainable production of key personal care ingredients.