Ashland debuts AI-crafted personal care solutions including “high-tech” chamomile extract and cosmetic for gum care

08 Nov 2023 --- At the on-going In-Cosmetics Asia 2023 trade fair (November 7 to 9), Ashland is showcasing its beauty solutions line, covering skin care, hair and scalp care, oral care and microbial protection. The innovations were developed in alignment with forecasted personal care trends for the coming year.

“As we approach the end of 2023, there is a growing desire among individuals to embrace scientific, holistic methods for well-being on mind-body exhausted days,” the supplier states. “Ashland innovatively integrates wellness into the AI-enabled beauty solutions and ushers consumers into the next chapter of daily personal care regimens.”

Injection-free chamomile facial care
Among its newest solutions, Ashland has globally launched Perfectyl Biofunctional, which is a novel “high-tech chamomile extract,” developed using its AI-based Zeta Fraction technology.

Zeta Fraction gently separates live plants or algae into various bioactive components — which are called Zeta Fractions — without the use of solvents and with minimal energy consumption, making its solutions potent and sustainable.Zeta Fraction gently separates live plants or algae into various bioactive components — which are called Zeta Fractions — without the use of solvents and with minimal energy consumption, making its solutions potent and sustainable.

Perfectyl Biofunctional targets multiple signs of external and lifestyle stresses on the skin, such as post-inflammatory-hyperpigmentation and sebum overproduction. Tested in vitro and in vivo on three skin ethnicities and four phototypes, it is dubbed a “multi-ethnic solution to help all complexions get clearer and more uniform.”

The solution was inspired by new aesthetic techniques for relaxing facial lines without the need for injections. Organically and sustainably sourced from the mountains in Oregon, US, the chamomile in the ingredient holds medicinal functions and is well-known for its calming and relaxing properties, being naturally rich in flower acids and GABA amino acid.

“The younger generation of women are more and more using more and more non-surgical aesthetic procedures to get flawless skin, and this trend is driven by social media with billions of views,” says Justine Cotton, global marketing, Biofunctionals at Ashland.

“Inspired by these new aesthetic practices used by GenZ and Millennials to achieve perfect skin, Ashland has developed Perfectyl Biofunctional to help smooth fine lines, refine enlarged pores, clarify imperfections and uneven skin, specifically pigment spots.”

Clary sage flowers for dandruff treatment
Next in Ashland’s introduced line is Sclareance Biofunctional, which is extracted from Ashland’s clary sage fields in the US, where the flowers are “bio-transformed using non-GMO biotechnology.”

It is the second Biofunctional to be developed by Ashland using AI for health and wellness in scalp care. The ingredient helps reduce the appearance of dandruff to restore a healthy scalp.

 Ashland has globally launched Perfectyl Biofunctional, which is a novel “high-tech chamomile extract,” developed to treat fine lines, enlarged pores, uneven skin and pigment spots.“Stress can manifest on our bodies in different ways, including our scalp,” says Anne Clay, marketing and business development manager, Biofunctionals at Ashland. “Consumers are increasingly seeking scalp facials to intentionally address scalp health and combat dandruff.”

“Using white biotechnology to activate ingredients for scalp care, Ashland can amplify the efficacy of our customers’ products and applications.”

The company’s solvers discovered that sclareolide could help the skin activate vitamin D functions and restore a healthy scalp through clinical trials. In research, the ingredient was shown to visibly reduce the appearance of dandruff and contribute to the naturality and integrity of customers’ products.

Oral beauty care through gum biology
Ashland’s third showcased ingredient is Saffragyl Biofunctional, which is a new, COSMOS-approved cosmetic solution for gum care. This 100% natural extract is from upcycled saffron flowers to help prevent early gum problems and strengthen sensitive and irritated gums.

“Oral health (gum and teeth) is connected to overall health and well-being. Recent research has demonstrated the link between oral bacteria with age-related health disorders that go beyond gingival recession, such as Alzheimer and cardiac problems,” says Christophe Capallere, senior team leader of tissue engineering, toxicology in vitro and evaluation at Ashland.

“Taking care of gum health in a prevention mode should be considered as the number one strategy in our daily healthy beauty routine.”

Saffragyl helps protect the gums from signs of gingivitis in vitro. It helps protect and reinforce the gum barrier and helps limit noxious bacterial adhesion in vitro, performing similarly to chlorhexidine. 

Retain an active smile all-day
Ashland is also highlighting its Gantrez Soja ingredient, which is a nature-derived, biodegradable active delivery system for oral care. The solution retains hydrophobic and poorly water-soluble actives on oral surfaces for long-lasting benefits. 

Continuous secretion and flow of saliva in the mouth can remove and deplete active agents that are left after brushing or rinsing with an oral care product, Ashland notes.

Ashland is showcasing its Softhance Mr conditioning agent that is based on soy and glycerin to provide moisture retention and deliver a soft, moisturized feel to skin in body wash, facial and hand soaps, cleansers and scrubs.As a result, antibacterial agents only have a short period to act and provide a limited germ-kill benefit, especially in hard-to-reach areas, including the gum line and between teeth. 

“Today’s oral care products use a wide range of actives, from antibacterial agents to kill germs and prevent plaque, to pigments and dyes for whitening effects and to flavors for freshness,” observes Ann Druffner, global marketing lead of Oral Care at Ashland.

“Gantrez Soja delivery system is an innovative technology that improves the retention in the mouth for longer periods to provide much-needed time for improved efficacy, which leads to brighter and healthier smiles.”

Raspberry potencies
Phyteq Raspberry One Multifunctional is Ashland’s fourth spotlighted solution, marketed as an all-in-one, liquid multifunctional blend to enable easy formulation. 

Designed for “difficult-to-protect” leave-on formulations like sunscreens and pigmented emulsions, this multifunctional provides various skin benefits, including antioxidant and well-aging properties with readily biodegradable ingredients and a wide pH applicability.

“The Phyteq Raspberry series furthers Ashland’s innovations for plant-inspired, clean beauty,” says Mark Zhang, marketing manager of Microbial Protection and Hair Care, Asia at Ashland.

“The Phyteq technologies will fulfill today’s market requirements for sustainable preservation as well as multifunctional benefits. Being readily biodegradable and globally compliant, the core ingredient, raspberry ketone, builds on its already well-known associated health benefits of raspberry.” 

Soften skin from a cleanser
Lastly, at In-Cosmetics Asia, Ashland is showcasing its Softhance Mr conditioning agent that is based on soy and glycerin to provide moisture retention and deliver a soft, moisturized feel to skin in body wash, facial and hand soaps, cleansers and scrubs.

This nature-derived, biodegradable, non-GMO and vegan-suitable conditioning agent offers an excellent deposition profile while imparting consumer-perceivable skin softness.

Compatible with anionic and non-ionic surfactants, this new product is applicable in clear and  opaque formulations. 

By Benjamin Ferrer