Biotech beauty: Syensqo focuses on sustainable ingredients with US lab expansion

The newly independent spin-off from chemical company Solvay is driving sustainable beauty with the expansion of its Boston Biotechnology Lab to grow R&I in the US. 

Originally launched through a partnership with Ginkgo Bioworks in April 2023, the now-acquired lab is central to Syensqo’s 12 other R&I centers. The Cambridge Lab, which focuses on microbial strain engineering and enzyme discovery, uses modern methods to convert renewable feedstocks into biobased and recycled cosmetic ingredients.

Syensqo’s Ryan Sillers, biotechnology director for Renewable Materials and Biotechnology Growth Platform, and Eric Leroy, global marketing director for Beauty Care Market, tell Personal Care Insights how the lab will accelerate sustainable, circular solutions across consumer goods, food and personal care.

Can you share the process of transforming agricultural waste into beauty ingredients at Cambridge Lab?
Leroy: Agricultural wastes, such as crop residues and other plant-based materials, can be effectively used in fermentation processes to produce a variety of valuable products. This contributes to the creation of sustainable and eco-friendly products.

Eric Leroy, global marketing director for Beauty Care Market.The agricultural wastes are introduced into a fermentation vessel along with the selected microorganisms. The microorganisms metabolize the sugars and other nutrients present in the agricultural wastes, converting them into desired products through biochemical reactions. The conditions within the fermentation vessel, such as temperature, pH and oxygen levels, are carefully controlled to optimize the growth and activity of the microorganisms. After the fermentation process is complete, the desired product is extracted from the fermentation broth. Various purification techniques, such as filtration, distillation or chromatography, are employed to isolate and purify the final product.

What are some challenges Syensqo faces in developing biodegradable and bio-based materials?
Sillers: There are a mix of different technical and economic challenges encountered. Technically, developing biodegradable solutions that have the material properties of conventional materials (e.g., strength and stability) can be difficult. Economically, these bio-based products can require new production facilities to be built and renewable raw materials can be more expensive than those derived from petroleum, impacting the overall cost of the product. Having consumers willing to pay a premium for the benefits of biodegradability and naturalness can accelerate bringing these products to the market.

Can you share details about the Cerafy biomimetic ceramides and how they compare to traditional ceramides?
Leroy: Our Cerafy range is nature-inspired. We are developing ceramides that mimic the natural ceramide that our skin produces. With our solution, we can supplement the skin with key lipids that tend to decrease with time or due to aggressions.

Syensqo employs an innovative manufacturing process to design the Cerafy range of products. It begins with the ceramide precursor (phytosphingosine) extraction through yeast fermentation, followed by acylation with fatty acid. This method ensures that the Cerafy solutions are identical to their naturally occurring counterparts, present in the stratum corneum, which, in turn, offers great bioaffinity and strong efficacy.

Ryan Sillers, biotechnology director for Renewable Materials and Biotechnology Growth Platform.Cerafy is produced through a fermentation process that aligns with the focus of Syensqo’s Renewable Materials and Biotechnology Growth Platform. The platform leverages biotechnologies as an enabler to develop renewable carbon-based and safe chemistry to accelerate the transformation toward sustainable and circular solutions.

How does your partnership with Allozymes enhance Syensqo’s capabilities in sustainable beauty solutions?
Sillers: Our partnership with Allozymes is a pivotal step in Syensqo’s ongoing commitment to biotechnology-driven innovation. By teaming up with Allozymes, a leader in enzyme discovery and engineering, we are combining their cutting-edge microfluidics platform with our deep expertise in applications and market access. This allows us to rapidly develop high-performance biosolutions for the home and personal care sectors, particularly within the skin care market.

Allozymes’ ultra-high-throughput microfluidics technology enables the efficient engineering of enzymes and microbes at an unprecedented scale, drastically reducing development time and cost. This breakthrough capability positions us to deliver sustainable, biomanufactured ingredients faster and more affordably than ever before. The result is not just a new wave of product innovation, but a significant shift toward more eco-conscious, renewable beauty solutions.

In line with Syensqo’s broader sustainability strategy, this collaboration accelerates our move toward a portfolio of products with increased renewable carbon content, including bio-based alternatives. Also, by integrating Allozymes’ biotechnology advancements with our expertise in conventional chemistry, we are pushing the boundaries of sustainable product development. This partnership empowers us to deliver new, game-changing ingredients that meet the growing demand for greener, high-performance beauty solutions. 

What role do microbial strains and enzymes play in Syensqo’s beauty ingredients, and how do they add to sustainability?
Leroy: The development of biological systems allows for the specific production of active ingredients, like peptides and vitamins, specifically designed for unique beauty care needs. These biological systems offer enhanced yield and purity and can meet allergen and animal-free requirements. 

These innovations enable the use of renewable feedstocks, like plant-based sugars and production happens at lower temperatures and pressures, reducing energy consumption and emissions.