Clariant unveils açaí “superberry”: Sustainable extraction and upcycling in personal care
15 Feb 2024 --- The Amazon is the largest tropical rainforest on the planet and home to açaí berries that contain abundant antioxidants for cosmetic applications. Clariant’s Personal Care Specialties company, Beraca, uses the fruit as a star ingredient in its oils, actives and scrubs.
Every October during harvest season, Clariant’s entire Beraca factory in Ananindeua, Brazil, focuses on processing açaí. The raw materials are transformed into açaí oil and açaí extract. The fruit is susceptible to spoilage, so processing must occur quickly.
Personal Care Insights speaks to Julie Droux, global technical marketing manager at Clariant, about its Amazonian açai’s cosmetic uses and sustainable extraction.
In addition to Beraca’s ethical sourcing commitment and collaboration with local farmers and communities for a sustainable supply chain, Clariant says its objective of zero waste is “extremely important.”
The company asserts that it uses “as much of the açaí raw material as possible.” The vegetable oil and the active anthocyanin ingredient are extracted from the pulp to manufacture the extracts. With the cake formed from the pulp, Beraca creates natural scrubs. All these incorporate the concepts of upcycling.
What are some of the cosmetic applications of the açaí?
Droux: We have developed Beraca Açai Oil, which acts as an emollient rich in oleic and palmitic acids, in addition to containing polyphenols that are potent natural antioxidants. These components help reduce the oxidation process induced by free radicals, in addition to the lipid composition of açaí oil that can assist in reducing the skin irritation process. This oil promotes high spreadability for cosmetic formulations with medium film formation.
Julie Droux, global technical marketing manager at Clariant.
Do you think açaí will become a more popular ingredient in cosmetics? Where do you see its growth potential?
Droux: Açaí is rich in antioxidants, which can help fight skin aging. As consumers become increasingly interested in natural, anti-aging skin care, açaí may appeal to them. The fruit is commonly known as a “superberry” or “Amazonian berry” due to its great nutritional profile. The cosmetic industry often seeks inspiration from superfruits, therefore, açaí has great potential. It is a jewel of the earth that thrives on the Amazon Rainforest riverbanks. Endemic to the region and particularly abundant in primary forests, açaí contains valuable components with skin benefits.
How do you uniquely use the ingredient compared to other companies?
Droux: Our organic açai supply chain valorizes Brazilian socio-biodiversity, and from this fruit, we maximize the use of the resource through an upcycling approach to propose three açai-derived ingredients: Beraca Açai Oil Organic (a powerful emollient to hydrate and soothe the skin), Beraca Triple A Organic (an active ingredient containing açai oil, for a blemish-free skin) and Beraca Açai Scrub Organic (a scrub made from upcycling of the açai press cake).
Do you retrieve the ingredient sustainably?
Droux: Clariant works with an association in the municipality of Igarapé-Miri, Brazil, which is known as the “World Capital of Açaí,” to sustainably source its organic açai. Created in 1991, this cooperative works with industries to guarantee a fair price negotiation with the collectors. The partnership initiated in 2009 keeps supporting local farmers and communities. The fruits are then transformed in our local factory into different ingredients, from oil to scrub, to maximize resource use through an upcycling production strategy.
By Sabine Waldeck
