Investigating effects of raspberry seed, sesame and coconut oils on skin hydration

15 Feb 2024 --- Recent research has investigated the effects of specific plant oils on skin hydration and barrier function, providing insights for personal care formulators. The study, which focuses on the impact of raspberry seed oil, sesame seed oil and coconut oil, sheds light on their potential in skin care formulations.

Plant oils have long been valued for their moisturizing and protective properties. According to the researchers, cold-pressed oils, such as those mentioned above, are particularly recognized in skin care for their rich composition of fatty acids, antioxidants and other bioactive compounds.

The skin is the body’s largest organ and acts as a multifaceted barrier against environmental stressors and pathogens. Hydration levels and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which reflect the skin barrier’s integrity, are important indicators of skin health.

Thirty-five female volunteers participated in the study, and researchers applied all three oils to different parts of their forearms. Scientists measured skin hydration and TEWL before and after applying the oils using specialized probes, which allowed them to obtain quantitative data on the oils’ effects.

Star ingredient: Raspberry seed oil
Raspberry seed, sesame and coconut oils were tested on the forearm (Image credit: Study).The study results showed that after application, the skin hydration of all three oils was significantly increased. Raspberry seed oil showed the strongest moisturizing effect of the three, indicating its potential use as a hydrating ingredient in skin care products.

Furthermore, researchers discovered that the skin’s barrier function had improved. Interestingly, raspberry seed oil was the only oil to demonstrate a “significant improvement” in TEWL. Based on the findings, researchers underscore the oil’s potential to strengthen the skin’s natural defense mechanisms.

Furthermore, the study clarifies that the oils’ efficacy was not dependent on body weight, body water content, or BMI. The research states this, as previous studies have found a correlation between BMI and skin characteristics.

Meeting natural skin care
The study’s authors propose that the results are useful for the industry. For example, formulators can use the moisturizing and barrier-boosting qualities of sesame, coconut, and raspberry seed oils in formulating skin care products.

“Raspberry seed oil boasts a high concentration of bioactive compounds, including a favorable composition of fatty acids, tocotrienols, tocopherols, carotenoids, phytosterols, polyphenols and monoterpenes. It also enhances the skin barrier function and mitigates skin conditions such as photoaging, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis,” detail the authors.

“Sesame seed oil comprises various components with well-acknowledged cosmetic effects. Alongside triglycerides encompassing many unsaturated fatty acids, the raw material also contains lignans, tocopherols, phytosterols, and bioactive compounds, including natural antioxidants.”

Coconut oil is spotlighted for its abundance in medium-chain fatty acids, phenolic compounds, vitamins E and K, signaling antioxidant and anti-aging effects.

“It exhibits reparative effects on the skin barrier and finds application in individuals with conditions such as atopic dermatitis. Coconut oil’s monolaurin content contributes to its antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium Acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, and Staphylococcus epidermidis. Additionally, it exhibits a relatively high SPF index compared to other oils,” add the authors.

By Venya Patel

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